For all that want information. Dan, you are not worth my time.

http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...hl=anti+atkins

 

I'm going to ignore all the other comments, but I will reply to this. Hurley seals are one of those aftermarket metallic seals that are good for certain purposes, like breaking-in and tuning a motor getting ceramics, but like all aftermarket metallic seals, you have to understand their shortcomings. Hurleys, we have found, are very soft and VERY abrasive. We have seen brand new rotor housings worn out by 30K miles! However, the really nice feature of the seals is that they cause virtually no damage when you break one because they essentially turn to powder and blow right out the tail pipe. Awesome seals for tuning an engine to the limit! After finding the right tune, you can safely toss in OEM or ceramic seals, which are not so friendly when broken. With Cermet coated rotor housings, the Hurleys last almost as long as OEM seals in OEM housings. Again, this is just our experience. Your mileage may vary.

I will also say that anyone not using new rotor housings is going to need another rebuild before many of the aftermarket metallic seals wear out, so even if they don't last as long as OEM, it might be all you really need for the typical 30-50K rebuild.

 

Bottom line is....buy what you want and see what works for you! For me I prefer Atkins seals because they work for my street ported motors and I never had a problem yet. Rotary Aviation doesnt make 12a Apex seals and ceramic seals isnt for my applications.

 

well, for the hurley seals and longevety...... i haven't heard. just from a porterican racer that used to use atkins seals, yet had to replace them every 3rd race or so. went to hurleys and was able to run all year, and only replaced them for a sure mind the next year.
thats all.

 

OEM 2mm 2 piece baby

 

heres an ATKINS SEAL








My vote once again goes for OEM

 

Hurley and NRS seals are definitely good and have a proven track record. Also there's a few guys in Aus that make them.

 

Heres thread to read about Hurley seals.

 

Sounds like some repeated lean tuning has gone on there, I have never had a motor pop while driving/on dyno. If you're running big power it is a good idea to add some premix to the fuel. Some engine builders won't give you warranty unless you run premix.

 

I've seen oem with similar damage before. What exactly happend to that seal ?

 

ok made my choice and bought Atkins and got them in today but opps wrong seals. Owell as long as i get them by friday i ll be ok. They was gonna send them out i should have them by friday.

 

Great service at Atkins less that 16hrs after i called about getting the wrong part the right parts was in my hand. Thanks agian to every 1 at atkins.

 

Nick you are welcome and sorry for the messup on my end...

Later
Dan

 

no problem every can make mistakes. Let just hope my builder can have my engine done by the 28th now.

 

I don't to many peeps out there making apex seals.I have heard that hurley seals are not that great and don't come according to size and specs of the rotor. Some come fat some come short, and some come to thin. I have heard that atkins are good, I use the ones from mazda trix all the time with no problems. I run the steel and the carbon ones back and forth.It's just a matter of taste, but at the same time reputation.I say mazda trix, racing beat, or atkins

 

^^^ Agree 100% ^^^ Many people try to justify their Apex seal purshase w/ lots of hear say and then wonder if they made the right choice. Go for the trusted names in the business and you'' be just fine!