dino52047

My tach needle is waving all over the place..and the engine is missing too when it does. I`ve also had several instances where I got no response when I turn on the key. I called PR Motorsports (Hayward, Ca.) and the girl who answers the phone says it`s probably the trailing igniter. She said the part is $350 or so plus 1/2 hour labor.

First can anyone verify from experience that this is the issue? Second, does anyone know where this part might be available cheaper? Thanks in advance...

Forgot to mention 1985 GSL-SE fuel injected

Howco

I just had this problem, only with the leading ignitor.

Labor? Heh its easy to do yourself.

On the side of the disributor there are two little boxes with wires coming out of them. Your going to need a angle screwdriver to reach them. Swap them one for the other. If your tach stops bouncing that means you have a bad trailing one since you just put the good one in its place. I dont know how but I guess the tach runs off this in some way.

the car will still run like **** of course and you will need the part still. But shop around I paid $140 for mine and people here laughed at me $350 they will howl at you. I got mine at autozone.

kerniew

She is probably correct. The tach pickup comes from the trailing igniter. If that is failing, the tach bounces and the computer gets the wrong data. The computer responds by shutting off the injectors.

Check this thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/engine-stops-randomly-503534/

In the end, I had to replace both igniters. I found used ones on rx7club.com forum and ebay. Replaced them and I haven't had any problems since.

bliffle

Oh poor Dino!

In Hayweird you're within a few minutes of three good Pick n Pulls (one right down on Mowry!) where I can usually find an old RX-7 or two or three, and with the little $4 right-angle ratchet I bought at HarborFreight (the cheapest one has the smallest head) while driving down Mowry toward that PnP I was able to liberate 2 good J109 ignitors with no problem!

Two little phillips head screws hold each ignitor in place. Sometimes, to reach the ignitor at the top of the distributor you gotta rotate the alternator out of the way (requires a 12 and 14 mm wrench of some kind) first. And you need a little hex-shaft phillips bit for that cheap ratchet.

If Mowry doesn't have it for you, get back on 880 and down toward san Jose and find the PnP on Commercial. Adds 15 min to your day. Then if Commercial doesn't have it you try the So. San Jose PnP down on Monterrey highway.

notveryhappyjack

iTrader: (4)

sounds like a failed igniter. Possibly trailing. There are many to be found in a wrecking yard, go to a pick and pull and take it off, tell the guy working there it is a fuse and tell him you will give him $5 for it. Dirt cheap.

dino52047

Thanks everybody..guess I`ll have to pick up some tools(they keep stealing them outta the car) and head for a P&P.

Bliffle..I live in Oak...land.. not Hayweird (which is worse?), so I`ll have to add on another 45 minutes to that drive to So San Jose. Hope they have one on Mowry.

The trailing ignitor is the one closest to the engine?

dino52047

Doing some searches here on site led me to a point I`m a little confused about. Are both ignitors the same (leading and trailing)? Does it matter which of the two I liberate from the P&P???

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Quick question, are you a 79 owner?

Then you would be needing J105's, mounted on the drivers fender. Mine used to do that when I had an SA, it would just show the voltage (basically hover around 4k"rpms") unless I floored it, and it would sometime show the rev's.

Verify if you have Points or Electronic ignition first.

Kentetsu

Make sure that the plug at the ignitor is clean and securely connected. I believe that usually when these go, they just go. Intermittent problems would probably indicate a bad connection...

dino52047

1985 GSL-SE FI

I`ll check that connection tomorrow...maybe I`ll get lucky. In the meantime, if I have to go pick a part...are both ignitors the same? See my question above...

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Ignitors are cheap here on the forum. They generally run about 25+ shipping. both ignitors are the same, but the 79 does use the J105s due to the points system. The electronic system uses the J109s. If the ignitors are mounted on the dizzy, they're the J109s.

Both the tach and the fuel pump circuit run through the trailing ignitor. If it fails or is intermittent, so will be the tach and fuel pump. Swap out the leading and trailing ignitors. The engine will perform weakly, but if the tach and idle steady out and act normal, start looking for another ignitor. I suspect you don't have a 79 because the tach and pump run through the leading ignitor since the trailing ignitor runs part time on the 79s for emissions.

Looking at your profile, you have an SE, which uses the J109s. Post a wtb in the 1st gen parts section, that should solve your problem. Be sure to clean the contacts and the backside of the ignitor and it's mounting position on the dizzy.

bliffle

The 85SE uses two J109s. If you need the ignitors subito, go to the PnP (Mowry is only a half hour down 880 from oakville). Otherwise, look in the classifieds and, if necessary, send a PM to someone who's parting out a car.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Guys: The '79 doesn't use the J-105 or any ignitor. It is points based. The '80 uses the J-105.

To answer your question, both ignitors are the same. Trailing is closest to the alt, leading out in front. Go ahead and grab 2 of them as it is nice to have a spare on hand. As others have mentioned, the signal for the tach and the ECU on the GSL-SE, comes from trailing. If trailing is not working, your injectors will not fire = no fuel.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the correction Kent. I've only worked on 1 SA and that was a conversion to the electronic dizzy. I assume then that the 80 is the only one that has the J105 ignitors then.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

That is correct. The '80 is unique that way. Electronic dizzy, but the ignitors (J-105) are mounted on the fender instead of the dizzy. The '80 takes tach from leading instead of trailing as trailing only works part time to keep the fire lit in the themal reactor.

dino52047

Thanks to all! One last question..do any wires need to be cut..or are all the connectors spade clips?

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

They just unplug. Press on the tab and pull. When you install them on your car, coat the back with heatsink compound. You can get a little tube at RadioShack for about $2 or so. Also, any good computer shop should have it. This will help to transfer heat away from the ignitor and give the ignitor a longer life.

It is a simple job. Remove two screws. Unplug the old. Screw the new one in (with heatsink compound). Plug it in. It should only take a few minutes and will save you a ton of money compared to taking it to a shop.

Kent

dino52047

Thanks GSL...I was already quoted close to $400 for a new one plus labor!!!

dino52047

Just curious..there isn`t any chance a bad battery connection could cause the same symptoms? That is, the flutter on the tach needle and the miss???

dino52047

An update and another mystery. I replaced the ignitor yesterday..and noticed my battery connections were pretty corroded, so I cleaned them as well. I also replaced the plugs. But it seems I`m having the same problem...just a half hour ago the tach needle started flying all over the place and the car died. I lost all electrics. So I "jiggled" the ignitor...checked the plug wires...and tapped on the battery connectors and I got the electrics back. Does anyone have a clue as to what might be going on here? I`m stumped...

Kentetsu

If you are loosing all electric, then the ignitor is not the issue. Remove and clean the connections at both ends of each battery cable. You might even want to consider replacing them altogether because they are prone to internal corrosion and can cause all sorts of issues.

Universal battery cable replacements can be found for dirt cheap at most autoparts stores. Good luck...

dino52047

I don`t know if this is related..but I just discovered that 2 of the plug wires were hooked up backwards. I had the leading and trailing backwards on the plugs closest to the dizzy..I didn`t notice any difference in the way it was running...

dino52047

bump

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Do like Ken says and replace the battery cables. Also get yourself a battery terminal cleaner brush (about $4) to clean your battery terminals before installing the new cables. Eevn if it doesn't cure this problem, it is a good idea and will prevent future problem.

dino52047

I did clean the terminals and connectors with a wire brush and baking soda. Only cleaned them at that end though. I don`t have a jack right now so I can`t change the cables until I do. Or take it to someone with a lift. I did see a lot of oil on the cable running to the starter. I wonder if that's the problem...

Also, I just wondered if having the plug wires backwards(leading & trailing) would have an effect on how the car runs..as I said I didn`t notice a difference.