Synthetic 2 stroke oil
Synthetic 2 stroke oil
Does anyone know about this? If i use synthetic 2 stroke oil will it mess up the seals in my housing? I dont know if or when the engine was rebuilt amd it works perfectly fine so i dont wanna mess anything up.
This article you linked is talking about engine oil. You're asking about 2 stroke oil, which would imply you're asking about premix. If your factory oil metering pump is working there isn't any need to use premix unless you're running the engine under hard loads and RPM like racing.
If that is the case, then you can use any TC-W3 rated 2 stroke oil in your gas, synthetic or mineral based. Common ratios are 1-2 oz per gal of gasoline. There is no risk of damaging your engine using premixed 2stroke oil.
There's not a lot of need to switch to synthetics in the engine oil, just change your oil often using whatever brand you like.
If that is the case, then you can use any TC-W3 rated 2 stroke oil in your gas, synthetic or mineral based. Common ratios are 1-2 oz per gal of gasoline. There is no risk of damaging your engine using premixed 2stroke oil.
There's not a lot of need to switch to synthetics in the engine oil, just change your oil often using whatever brand you like.
This article you linked is talking about engine oil. You're asking about 2 stroke oil, which would imply you're asking about premix. If your factory oil metering pump is working there isn't any need to use premix unless you're running the engine under hard loads and RPM like racing.
If that is the case, then you can use any TC-W3 rated 2 stroke oil in your gas, synthetic or mineral based. Common ratios are 1-2 oz per gal of gasoline. There is no risk of damaging your engine using premixed 2stroke oil.
There's not a lot of need to switch to synthetics in the engine oil, just change your oil often using whatever brand you like.
If that is the case, then you can use any TC-W3 rated 2 stroke oil in your gas, synthetic or mineral based. Common ratios are 1-2 oz per gal of gasoline. There is no risk of damaging your engine using premixed 2stroke oil.
There's not a lot of need to switch to synthetics in the engine oil, just change your oil often using whatever brand you like.
Last edited by fox1999; Jul 7, 2023 at 03:19 PM. Reason: New question
I'm skeptical that a decent synthetic oil would cause seals to swell but it is a possibility. The bigger concern is deposits, as the engine burns crankcase oil via the OMP (assuming no fresh oil adapter/reservoir).
The coolant seals wouldn't be affected by the oil, I would only be concerned with the rotor seals or O-rings that have constant oil contact.
I run synthetic premix in my fuel and conventional oil in the crankcase.
I don't think you have much to gain with synthetic in the crankcase, we have pretty severe fuel dilution so the extended intervals with synthetic oil would likely be detrimental.
My advice is a good dino oil and synthetic premix. Make sure to keep that crankcase oil fresh, this is even more important if you rely solely on the OMP for lubrication!
Alex
Last edited by 1badFB; Jul 7, 2023 at 04:08 PM.
I almost didn't reply because these are searchable questions and answers, but wanted to pass along this simple advice from 40 years of Rx7 ownership; "if it ain't broke, don't fix it until it is."
If it's running well now, drive it. Use whatever oil is in it. Don't prefix because you think it's what rotary guys do - because 95% of us don't. There is nothing cool about pumping gas, then measuring out 2 stroke oil into a measuring cup and trying to get it down the spout without spilling any, all while you're taking up a pump space.
Synthetic oils aren't recommended for rotary engines because the engine BURNS it, and synthetic oils don't burn as easily as petroleum based engine oils. It's that simple. Don't make this harder than it is, more expensive than it has to be, or rethink wisdom which is borne from 100s of thousands of miles for many of our cars (250k+ in my case), and possibly MILLIONS of driven miles by the guys who post here.
You're not uncovering some lost magic like the 100mi/gal carburetor. Enjoy the drive,
If it's running well now, drive it. Use whatever oil is in it. Don't prefix because you think it's what rotary guys do - because 95% of us don't. There is nothing cool about pumping gas, then measuring out 2 stroke oil into a measuring cup and trying to get it down the spout without spilling any, all while you're taking up a pump space.
Synthetic oils aren't recommended for rotary engines because the engine BURNS it, and synthetic oils don't burn as easily as petroleum based engine oils. It's that simple. Don't make this harder than it is, more expensive than it has to be, or rethink wisdom which is borne from 100s of thousands of miles for many of our cars (250k+ in my case), and possibly MILLIONS of driven miles by the guys who post here.
You're not uncovering some lost magic like the 100mi/gal carburetor. Enjoy the drive,
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: North Cackalacky
I almost didn't reply because these are searchable questions and answers, but wanted to pass along this simple advice from 40 years of Rx7 ownership; "if it ain't broke, don't fix it until it is."
If it's running well now, drive it. Use whatever oil is in it. Don't prefix because you think it's what rotary guys do - because 95% of us don't. There is nothing cool about pumping gas, then measuring out 2 stroke oil into a measuring cup and trying to get it down the spout without spilling any, all while you're taking up a pump space.
Synthetic oils aren't recommended for rotary engines because the engine BURNS it, and synthetic oils don't burn as easily as petroleum based engine oils. It's that simple. Don't make this harder than it is, more expensive than it has to be, or rethink wisdom which is borne from 100s of thousands of miles for many of our cars (250k+ in my case), and possibly MILLIONS of driven miles by the guys who post here.
You're not uncovering some lost magic like the 100mi/gal carburetor. Enjoy the drive,
If it's running well now, drive it. Use whatever oil is in it. Don't prefix because you think it's what rotary guys do - because 95% of us don't. There is nothing cool about pumping gas, then measuring out 2 stroke oil into a measuring cup and trying to get it down the spout without spilling any, all while you're taking up a pump space.
Synthetic oils aren't recommended for rotary engines because the engine BURNS it, and synthetic oils don't burn as easily as petroleum based engine oils. It's that simple. Don't make this harder than it is, more expensive than it has to be, or rethink wisdom which is borne from 100s of thousands of miles for many of our cars (250k+ in my case), and possibly MILLIONS of driven miles by the guys who post here.
You're not uncovering some lost magic like the 100mi/gal carburetor. Enjoy the drive,
Chicks dig it when i am premixing my Rx3 at the gas station! lol
Mazda premixes their rotary race cars, even had Idemitsu make the winning formula for the R26B in the #55 787B, which we can still buy (it's even on Amazon, LOL)
Idemitsu Racing Rotary Premix | Idemitsu Lubricants
"Measuring out 2 stroke oil in a measuring cup and trying to get it down the spout without spilling any..."
I don't use a measuring cup, I just use the bottle the premix comes in, a funnel and paper towels (to clean the funnel before it put it back in my car). I'm always putting in half a tank of gas, 8 gallons and since I'm pouring from a 16oz Maxima Castor 927 bottle, I pour in the whole bottle, cuz I'm running 2oz per gallon (high mileage chassis, unknown on swapped engine- with boost)
Any JASO FC rated 2 stroke oil should be fine. -I know, the Maxima Castor 927 doesn't have a JASO rating as far as I know...IT JUST SMELLS SOOO GOOOD. Another downside to the Castor 927 is that the bottle doesn't have a transparent strip with graduated markings like some bottles do.... those that do have it, make the measuring bottles very redundant.
2 stroke gasoline engine oil performance classification implementation manual
2T_2018_EV1912.pdf (jalos.or.jp)
The funnel I use (I bought it on Amazon..)
PREMIX FUNNEL - Mazdatrix
But there are premix kits available...
Premix EZ Quick Kit - Mazdatrix
If you prefer to fill up whenever, just pre-pour your 2 stroke oil into those graduated Mazdatrix bottles and pour from them accordingly.
Idemitsu Racing Rotary Premix | Idemitsu Lubricants
"Measuring out 2 stroke oil in a measuring cup and trying to get it down the spout without spilling any..."
I don't use a measuring cup, I just use the bottle the premix comes in, a funnel and paper towels (to clean the funnel before it put it back in my car). I'm always putting in half a tank of gas, 8 gallons and since I'm pouring from a 16oz Maxima Castor 927 bottle, I pour in the whole bottle, cuz I'm running 2oz per gallon (high mileage chassis, unknown on swapped engine- with boost)
Any JASO FC rated 2 stroke oil should be fine. -I know, the Maxima Castor 927 doesn't have a JASO rating as far as I know...IT JUST SMELLS SOOO GOOOD. Another downside to the Castor 927 is that the bottle doesn't have a transparent strip with graduated markings like some bottles do.... those that do have it, make the measuring bottles very redundant.
2 stroke gasoline engine oil performance classification implementation manual
2T_2018_EV1912.pdf (jalos.or.jp)
The funnel I use (I bought it on Amazon..)
PREMIX FUNNEL - Mazdatrix
But there are premix kits available...
Premix EZ Quick Kit - Mazdatrix
If you prefer to fill up whenever, just pre-pour your 2 stroke oil into those graduated Mazdatrix bottles and pour from them accordingly.
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