Times like these, I would really love a later gen 7 with spare fuse slots in the fuse box.

I'm looking for a switched 12v source for my wideband. I had it going to one of the coils, but that's less than ideal.

I've heard of people tapping into the stock ignition switch. I'm a little out of my depth here and am looking for someone who's needed a switched 12v before.

I suppose my best bet would be to not tap into any existing circuit. Preferably, I'd like to do it as cleanly as possible.

Any ideas are appreciated

Thanks!

 

What are the power requirements for wideband gauge. This'll help determine where power can be taken from.

 

I did some looking around in the AEM manual and videos on youtube. The manual states to add a 10amp fuse inline with the power wire.

And this is data I found on a Ford Focus forum:

Gauge:
Supply Current (Nominal): 1.3 Amps

Sensor:
Initial Warm-up Time: Less than 20 seconds
Heater current 1.2A @ 12V

The AEM manual states not to run the car without power being supplied to the gauge and sensor. Not that the car is running, but when it does I don't want to cause any potential issues.

 

The rear defroster circuit is a convenient switched (run not acc) wire. I redid my fast idle to be triggered via a relay from this connection so that the hold magnet can triggered with a toggle switch (the PO had already cut up these wires so I didn't feel too bad messing with them). I used the cig plug for the main power since it's a higher current circuit.

If you're running a stripped Nikki (no vent solenoid) that's another switched 12V power but I don't recall the load capacity. If in doubt just use a relay and use the switched source for trigger and run or tap into another constant line for power.

 

Sorry for the late update, I've been looking at the wiring diagrams for a while trying to figure out which wires of the defroster circuit and vent solenoid you were talking about, Benjamin.

I'm set on finding a wire and using it to trigger a relay, but I'm not sure exactly where you mean to tap into those wires or what color wires they are.

I figured while I was doing the wiring for the Wideband, I could also run a relay for the fuel pump as well since it's an aftermarket Carter to go with my Weber 45.

Could I not use the Black and White wire that goes to the fuel pump to trigger BOTH relays and just run a new power wire for each relay from the battery?

I am pretty knew to this electrical stuff, so I want to make absolutely sure I'm not going to ruin something before I even start.

The rats nest is also entirely removed, I assume most of the wires are still there.

 

Your idea for using the original fuel pump lead to trigger both relays would work fine as far as I can see - running a new positive and all. I actually just did the exact same - as have others (minus one relay) - for my carter install. Here's a photo of my fuel pump wiring, perhaps it'll give you an idea or something (this was taken before doing some minor wire management).



I would do like you are thinking and switch two relays from the same source (ie, the stock fuel pump lead). It'll mean your pump and wideband are getting power from new cables and it's also one less stock wire to cut. It's a longer run to the wideband than say the defroster circuit, but as I just said, you don't have to chop up as many factory wires this way.

 

I was wondering how I was going to do it while still being able to disconnect the fuel pump if I ever needed to.

Your image makes it all click. Need to get a purchase list going and see what I can do.

Thanks!