Sway bars. SA to FB
EliteHardcoreCannuckSquad
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,178
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From: London, England/Sesimbra, Portugal
The bar diameter was reduced because the SA one was much too thick (stiff) and caused the rear end to bind even more severly than it does on the FB
. Many SA's have been converted to the 15mm bar to improve handling, others have simply been removed.
. Many SA's have been converted to the 15mm bar to improve handling, others have simply been removed.
Last edited by RXcetera; Aug 8, 2002 at 11:17 AM.
The binding is because the upper links are not the same length or even in the same plane as the lower links. The car can only lean so far and then the suspension binds up. Lowering makes this worse.
A stiffer bar will actually help because it'll help keep the car from getting to the bind-up point. Of course, the car will be an oversteering pig, which is kinda fun if you're expecting it.
Going to a smaller bar or removing it entirely makes it worse, because it makes it easier to get to the bind-up point. Of course, the car will understeer a lot more before that...
The way to fix the binding is to throw away the upper links and go to a 3-link setup (upper link is in the center) or go with a torque arm setup. Then you'll have all sorts of rear-end grip in corners because the suspension can actually MOVE.
A stiffer bar will actually help because it'll help keep the car from getting to the bind-up point. Of course, the car will be an oversteering pig, which is kinda fun if you're expecting it.
Going to a smaller bar or removing it entirely makes it worse, because it makes it easier to get to the bind-up point. Of course, the car will understeer a lot more before that...
The way to fix the binding is to throw away the upper links and go to a 3-link setup (upper link is in the center) or go with a torque arm setup. Then you'll have all sorts of rear-end grip in corners because the suspension can actually MOVE.
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people who take their rear bars off 
i found that UNDERSTEER was my main problem when good tires were on the car... mainly because the front suspension has so little travel that the car pretty much rides on the bumpstop in corners = plow like Farmer John!
THAT can be FIXED though....

i found that UNDERSTEER was my main problem when good tires were on the car... mainly because the front suspension has so little travel that the car pretty much rides on the bumpstop in corners = plow like Farmer John!
THAT can be FIXED though....
Not by installing the -SA stuff ,,right ?? and i hear you,
about the front riding on the stops through corners..
sucks,,no travel,,,vs,,the rear,,a while back,( i'm pretty
sure it was you,,peejay ) posted something about
-SA's sway bars.. I just wanted to know if the -Sa's
were better then the FB's..
about the front riding on the stops through corners..
sucks,,no travel,,,vs,,the rear,,a while back,( i'm pretty
sure it was you,,peejay ) posted something about
-SA's sway bars.. I just wanted to know if the -Sa's
were better then the FB's..
They're stiffer. Stiffer does not always mean better. But it is something to keep in mind - if you want a bigger rear bar you can just hit up the junkyard for a '79-80. Or, if you have an SA, if you want a smaller rear bar you can go and grab one from an FB.
Originally posted by peejay
The way to fix the binding is to throw away the upper links and go to a 3-link setup (upper link is in the center) or go with a torque arm setup. Then you'll have all sorts of rear-end grip in corners because the suspension can actually MOVE.
The way to fix the binding is to throw away the upper links and go to a 3-link setup (upper link is in the center) or go with a torque arm setup. Then you'll have all sorts of rear-end grip in corners because the suspension can actually MOVE.
http://www.gforceengineering.net/
I'm not too far from them, I should really stop by for a visit sometime
I'm not too far from them, I should really stop by for a visit sometime
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