1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Swapping my leading coil- want confirmation.

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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 11:19 PM
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From: washington
WA Swapping my leading coil- want confirmation.

I have a 1984 rx-7 gs. I have a 12a engine in it. Pulled from a very unhappy dying car in the scrapyard.

I bought the msd blaster 8222.
I have electronic ignition since it is after 1979 and ignitors on the side of distributor?
I do not need the ballast resistor since after 1980?
I bought two should I swap both?(Both are original factory coils)
The one nearest the headlight is trailing and the one nearest driver is leading.

Lastly, I know this is the info from other previous threads, but it would be a nice condensed answer sheet for myself and others.

Thanks for the time

photos of car in attachments
Attached Thumbnails Swapping my leading coil- want confirmation.-1383632_612330742187412_987976408_n.jpg   Swapping my leading coil- want confirmation.-10012872_821887207825759_1038498026_o.jpg  
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Old Apr 16, 2014 | 08:26 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by Blade117
I have electronic ignition since it is after 1979 and ignitors on the side of distributor?
99% chance of being a yes, its possible someone swapped in a points distributor, but its really unlikely

I do not need the ballast resistor since after 1980?
you don't need one, and you don't have one

I bought two should I swap both?(Both are original factory coils)
up to you, since you bought both, might as well. keep the originals, they are actually quite good, and nice to have a good spare(s)

The one nearest the headlight is trailing and the one nearest driver is leading.
yep, if you follow the wires to the cap they do not cross each other
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Old Apr 16, 2014 | 10:51 AM
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Thanks for the reply. I looked last night apparently my buddy didn't know which coil was which so I will be taking the time to properly wire the*cap and the plugs.

Trailing top.
Leading lower.

T1 and L1 front.
T2 and L2 rear.
Correct?

Next addressing hot start issues.
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Old Apr 16, 2014 | 12:59 PM
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Yeah that's correct.
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Old Apr 16, 2014 | 11:19 PM
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Well it would seem that my car runs substantially better with the new leading coil and the wires in the correct location. Also my car seems to want to start easier... Imagine that... lol

I believe the next step is to redo the timing since it is different now that things are switched.
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 03:24 PM
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"Wires in the correct location" probably had more impact than the coil change.

Having leading and trailing swapped has the same effect as being 20 degrees late on timing. Runs, but not well.

Having front and rear swapped puts you 180 degrees out on timing and the car will not start. I know that one from painful experience.
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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 08:16 PM
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So I switched everything and it was running better.

Got my secondaries mechanical now and when I am driving hard, I push hard in 3 gear and above my engine cuts out but will go normal if I let go of the gas... Fuel starvation issue possibly?
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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 08:46 PM
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Dirty fuel filter if you're lucky. If a new one doesn't cure it, dirty tank/fuel pickup. Which affords you the opportunity to renew the fuel lines and paint the rusty tank.
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Old Apr 20, 2014 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Blade117
So I switched everything and it was running better.

Got my secondaries mechanical now and when I am driving hard, I push hard in 3 gear and above my engine cuts out but will go normal if I let go of the gas... Fuel starvation issue possibly?
Accelerator pump? Mech secondaries require a longer duration/ larger volume of fuel or you will bog.

Always remember when installing plug wires... T = TOP (trailing) L = LOWER (leading)
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 06:44 PM
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Hey I forgot to update. It was dying out in WOT because of dirty fuel filters. But now they are all clean.
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