1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Surging Oil pressure?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 25, 2015 | 09:00 AM
  #1  
NLPerformance's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
Tenured Member: 10 Years
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: Westport, CT
Surging Oil pressure?

Hi guys, I have a question about my oil pressure. In the morning when I'm letting it warm up, its around the second thick mark(30psi?) and it stays there. I pull out of my driveway and go for the day and my oil pressure gets lower and lower as I drive(almost hitting nothing), and then builds back up when I stop, but never past 45psi I want to guess, it builds when I go to 3k rpm, but it hits a point and stops building. Are the pump lobes worn?
Thanks!
Reply
Old Apr 25, 2015 | 09:43 AM
  #2  
rxtasy3's Avatar
Moderator
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 9,579
Likes: 290
From: Spartanburg, SC
there is a pressure relief valve in the system so max pressure will be at 3k and above. cold oil is thicker than when at operating temp so cold pressure will be higher at idle than when hot. check the oil level. if it gets too low pressure will fluctuate, especially during hard cornering/acceleration as the oil moves away from the pick up tube. i have an aftermarket gauge but others will probably tell u the the stock gauge isn't really too accurate.
Reply
Old Apr 25, 2015 | 09:47 AM
  #3  
diabolical1's Avatar
Moderator
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 10,998
Likes: 349
From: FL
oil pumps on these engines rarely fail. i mean, i'm sure it has to happen, but it's so infrequent that you may as well say never.

my guess is you're probably looking at one of two main scenarios. either the connection at the sender is failing for whatever reason (dirty, loose, breaking, etc.) or maybe the o-ring in the front cover is failing. i would start with sussing out the possible sender issues first, then you can look more closely at the o-ring since it would probably be best if the engine came out for replacing it.


EDIT: Rxtasy3 posted while i was typing. consider what he said as well.
Reply
Old Apr 26, 2015 | 10:02 AM
  #4  
NLPerformance's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
Tenured Member: 10 Years
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: Westport, CT
I was thinking about getting an aftermarket gauge because everyone says it's not too precise, but the current one doesn't look too dirty. Next time it's up on the lift, I'll pull the pan and see what I see.
Where would the leak from the front cover leak to?
Reply
Old Apr 27, 2015 | 04:07 PM
  #5  
diabolical1's Avatar
Moderator
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 10,998
Likes: 349
From: FL
Originally Posted by NLPerformance
Where would the leak from the front cover leak to?
it would leak back into the pan. it just bleeds pressure off the system.
Reply
Old May 2, 2015 | 12:23 AM
  #6  
DreamInRotary's Avatar
Always Wanting to Learn
Tenured Member 05 Years
iTrader: (49)
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,078
Likes: 42
From: Cambridge, Minnesota
I'd go with an aftermarket gauge to double check yourself, I don't trust the stock gauge much anymore. Get an electronic one with a sender, not one you need to run a copper pipe from the location you're drawing the reading from. I got a manual gauge and regretted it terribly - just spend the money and go electronic right away.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Snoopy FD
Build Threads
25
Dec 8, 2015 01:45 PM
andyvideopro
General Rotary Tech Support
3
Aug 20, 2015 10:55 AM
Clacor
Single Turbo RX-7's
0
Aug 14, 2015 09:17 AM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:14 AM.