Supreme disappointment!
Supreme disappointment!
Ok, So after the long process of redoing the suspension, and basically anything worn out in the drivetrain / suspension I thought I was done, but no... I finally re assembled everything tonight, got ready to bleed the brakes, when I break a bleeder valve off!!!!! ****.
My previous setbacks include being shipped the wrong parts from VB, then taking over a week to get a stubborn strut tube bolt off (ended up being forced to grind it off dremel style), Getting more wrong parts from Black Dragon, and now this: which is worst because I thought I was so close.
Anyways now that Ive got my little whine out, Can I drill and tap a new bleeder screw in, or do I need a new caliper.... Or is there another magical fix for this? haha.
My previous setbacks include being shipped the wrong parts from VB, then taking over a week to get a stubborn strut tube bolt off (ended up being forced to grind it off dremel style), Getting more wrong parts from Black Dragon, and now this: which is worst because I thought I was so close.
Anyways now that Ive got my little whine out, Can I drill and tap a new bleeder screw in, or do I need a new caliper.... Or is there another magical fix for this? haha.
You can try an easy-out, but I've never been able to get them to work as advertised. Order parts from www.rockauto.com whenever possible. The deliver fast and I've had no screwups so far. Cheapest prices too.
one thing that i done in the past and worked with that was taking a flat head screw driver, bang it in there (you want one that will clear the threads on the caliper) then take a vice grip and turn the screw driver.
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I had a caliper do that to me as well. I finally managed to get out the threads, got that fixed, and then the caliper ceased on me a while after. I vote buying new calipers all together. If you have the money to.
a cheaper option would prob taking it to a caliper rebuild shop and they do all that stuff ... i'm pretty sure that a broken bleeder valve is pretty common to them.
If this is a new caliper, and you have the paper work, take it back the the supplier. They should replace it for free. If you still want to mess with it, heat is your friend.
You can get a Craftsman Screw Extractor set (set of 3) from Sears that usually works better than an EZout. Doesn't require pilot hole, either. Lean on the screwdriver hard when you try it. I just removed some stainless deck screws with the Sears extractor, using a Dwalt 12v. impact driver. Oh, by the way, don't use stainless screws for decks: sometimes they break going in or coming out, and the head socket, whether phillips or square, can fail easily leaving a round hole you can't get a purchase on. Best deck screws I've ever used are those mushroom heads they make for Trex composition deckboards.
If you try using heat, be careful that you don't melt your seals....
New calipers start out at $25.79 at www.rockauto.com
Why even mess with it? If they are the original calipers then their reliability will always be questionable due to aging seals and gizmos. Better to go ahead and replace them now, and not have to worry about it again for another 21 years (or longer if you take better care than the PO did).
New calipers start out at $25.79 at www.rockauto.com
Why even mess with it? If they are the original calipers then their reliability will always be questionable due to aging seals and gizmos. Better to go ahead and replace them now, and not have to worry about it again for another 21 years (or longer if you take better care than the PO did).





