HorrorBeaver

Ok, so here is my problem…

I started my stock 84 GSL-SE and started driving down the road. I noticed when I went to use my turn signal it made a very fast clicking sound and the indicator light was blinking very fast.

(I know how fast it will blink when one of the turn signal bulbs is out… This is easily 100x faster than that, think strobe light fast).

Here are other symptoms I noticed also occurring at the same time:

- Radio feedback increasing with engine rpm
- While pressing the brakes or using anything electrical the stock voltage gauge shows a pretty significant dip in voltage then jumps right back.
- While using the power windows, I also noticed increased radio feedback.

The most alarming problem with all of this is when this issue occurs and I turn off the car, it will not start back up. You turn the ignition key and nothing happens no lights, sounds etc. The only thing that works is the trusty factory clock… Then after a few minutes it starts and works perfectly. This has happened twice to me.

The car drives great when this is going on as long as I don’t turn it off. Before I start taking it apart I want to see if any of you have had or have heard of this problem before.

Thank you in advance for all of your help.

redlightrich

iTrader: (1)

This sounds like a ground issue. I would start by checking the main ground cable on both ends. Then I would poke around every possible ground.

If it is preventing the starter from operating, then that could be an indication of main cable.

Have you tried to start it while the headlights are on, and view them to see if they dim when you turn the key? If so, then current is reaching the starter, but it wont activate. If they don't go dim when you operate the key, then current is not activating the solenoid.

The fast flash can easily be ground related, and that would be my guess.

Good luck

HorrorBeaver

Thank you for your response redlightrich,

I checked the main ground and power wires when it first decided to not start, the ground and power wires are all new (I replaced them about 3 years ago).

I might have explained the problem with the no-start wrong. When the car doesn’t start nothing comes on, no lights, radio, no relays clicking, and the hatch and gas lid switches don’t work, almost as if there was no battery in the car and you turned the ignition. Absolutely nothing.

The puzzling thing is it will all go back to working like normal without any kind of help from me. All I have to do is just wait a few minutes.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Maybe some sort of stuck solenoid?

NCross

iTrader: (18)

I agree with the above theory. Check your grounds. Retrace your footsteps on anything youve done to the car recently. I had a similar issue happen after I changed my license plate bulbs. Turns out I didnt reconnect a ground ring connector. Turn signals flashed very fast and fuel pump would osculate and pulse causing the car to die.

redlightrich

iTrader: (1)

If when you "lose" all power, you mean every last thing, then I will give some more things to check.

Grounds again, if you have an multi meter, you need to disconnect the battery negative cable, and connect the meter between the negative cable and various ground points, like engine, chassis maybe even trans and mounting bolts. Record the readings( using the ohm portion of the meter which reads resistance, and use a lower scale like x1000). You should have very little resistance. The meter should react very similar as if you touched both meter leads together.
If checking the ground shows nothing out of the ordinary, check the battery. If you have a bad ( shorted cell or cells) it can create all kinds of anomalies . When the car is completely dead, run the meter in voltage DC ( it may have a 20v scale) make sure it is higher than 12vdc. Again, record this number. A good battery should show 12.8 v or more. Less than that and the battery becomes suspect.

If those prove to not be helpful, I would start looking for a loose main power wire or wires, like possibly a fuse link or a main feed connection. I did not study your year's wiring schematic, but that would be a next step. Please note, a wire can be broken internally, but appear good when looking at the insulation. I have found this out the hard way. Sometimes a wire broken like this will contract when cool, and make a connection, and with a little heat, the vinyl coating expands and the connection comes apart. This is tricky to find. If you car does indeed have fuse links ( driver side near strut tower) you can usually feel them as the insulation is usually softer than regular wire. You can actually feel a break in the wire, but If it was a fuse link, it probably would not occasionally "heal" itself. Anything is possible with expansion and contraction, but that would be a long shot.

When the car is in its failed state is when you want to check everything. If you start moving things ( like wires and connections) , keep an eye as to when and if power restores. You want to be able to pinpoint the fault. I wish I were closer, as I would be glad to lend a hand. I like electrical diagnosis, and being I like it, I am usually successful.

If you don't have a multi meter, you can do some limited tests with a test light, but that wont tell the whole story. Harbor Freight has a cheap multimeter that works fairly well. I have 3 extras that I got with coupons, and to be honest, they work fine for auto applications. If you are unsure as to how to use the meter, let us know, we will chime in!!

Good luck

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Check your battery voltage, both with negative terminal disconnected, and with the battery connected but everything off.

I'd put money on a weak cell in the battery.