stupid ^%&$(% oil cooler
01-15-03, 10:28 PM
#1
stupid goddam oil cooler
Just spent 2 long hard days swapping out the beehive oil cooler in my 83 for the older style air oil cooler. Start it up and of course the cooler leaks like a ******. Figures, since I have 5 days to get it going before school starts up again. Its dark out right now and its kinda hard to see down there with a drop light so I can't tell exactly from where, but I think its from that thermostat thing on the bottom, although it could just as well be the lines. I'll look closer tomorrow in the light and see if i can pin point it. anyway if it is that thermostat thing what seals it? anyone got an exploded view of that? The oil lines are new braided stainless steel ones from mazdatrix, I replaced the aluminum washer on the top fitting on the cooler since it was off when i got the stuff, the bottom fitting was on there really tight, i couldn't get it off to replace that washer. Anyway, any thoughts? I'm just kinda venting here I'm really pissed right now
01-16-03, 01:22 AM
#4
This is what it looks like all put together. I think mine had some sealing crap around it when I took it off. It looked like it had been there for a while, so maybe Mazda put it there? I was thinking of just using some pipe thread compound or some teflon tape when I put it back together. Anyone see any reason I shouldnt do that?
~T.J.
~T.J.
01-16-03, 01:28 AM
#5
I replaced the aluminum washer on the top fitting on the cooler since it was off when i got the stuff, the bottom fitting was on there really tight, i couldn't get it off to replace that washer.
. Im sure youre smarter than that though . I hope it all works out for you. I know Im gonna have leaking lines too (first time making SS lines with -AN fittings), so I cant wait to see how my swap goes, lol.~T.J.
01-16-03, 01:46 AM
#6
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I think i found this picture on this forum a while back. It looks like a simple, but good setup. I think the guy said he bought the oilcooler at Advanced Auto Parts for $50.
01-16-03, 05:44 AM
#7
I got mine from a junk yard for $7 . The expensive part was the lines, which Mike (whos car that is) still had to buy. So I got the better deal...Hahahaha J/K . Actually, I dont think Mike paid even $50 for that. I think I just remember him saying that the same one is sold for like $50. I think he got it free or something??
~T.J.
. The expensive part was the lines, which Mike (whos car that is) still had to buy. So I got the better deal...Hahahaha J/K . Actually, I dont think Mike paid even $50 for that. I think I just remember him saying that the same one is sold for like $50. I think he got it free or something??~T.J.
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01-16-03, 07:51 AM
#8
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Originally posted by RotorMotorDriver
Well, this is all I think there is to it. A bottom nut, the actual thermostat piece, and the spring. There may be a washer there, but I dont think so.
~T.J.
Well, this is all I think there is to it. A bottom nut, the actual thermostat piece, and the spring. There may be a washer there, but I dont think so.
~T.J.
If your cooler has a crack, I know a good place nearby that should be able to weld it for you.
01-16-03, 08:27 AM
#9
update: Just out with a mirror and the car running, found the leak, its the top line, not the thermostta thing, so I'm happy, at least I can get to the top line pretty easy. Guess I'll go out there in a minute, when its a degree warmer (its under 20 right now) and fix this bitch. I'll let everyone know how it works out. Thanks for the pic of that thermostat TJ.
01-16-03, 11:41 AM
#12
The aluminum crush washers are really only good for one tightening, then they lose their ability to seal. Then people overtighten the fitting to try and get them to seal, and crack the threaded boss in the oil cooler. Very common problem. Always get new aluminum crush washers when removing/installing the lines. And TJ, I'm pretty sure that bypass valve is supposed to have an aluminum washer installed. -WG
Last edited by Wankelguy; 01-16-03 at 11:44 AM.
01-16-03, 05:17 PM
#13
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The leak may be at where the oil cooler lines connect to the oil cooler. Overtightening or stress on the connections is often the cause of cracks. This happened to my GSL SE and I got a reconditioned one from Donnie at Sun Auto Parts but I just checked his web page and 800 # and he is not there anymore!? I also got a moon roof from him. Instead check at http://www.mazdarecycling.com/
01-16-03, 06:14 PM
#14
Tennis, anyone
Isn't it,,, when ever there is oil flowing through a hose.
All fittings use a copper 'washer' at least on banjo bolts.
AN fittings too. slow down,pay attention to what your doing, and just do it right, man ! .
All fittings use a copper 'washer' at least on banjo bolts.
AN fittings too. slow down,pay attention to what your doing, and just do it right, man ! .
01-16-03, 08:35 PM
#15
Its leaking from where the top lines fitting meets teh cooler, so I guess either me or someone before me must have overtightened it. I'm pulling everything out tomorrow and bringing it to a radiator shop my gas station boss uses for a lot of their work, hopefully he can fix it either tomorrow or saturday at the latest. The reason I'm so rabid with this project is cause school starts up on Tuesday so I'm in a mad crunch for time. Oye, hope this works out.
01-17-03, 07:45 PM
#16
well with 85rx7gs there to help speed things along this morning I got the cooler back out and brought it to work, where my boss had a friend of his weld up the crack in my cooler. Got it all back together, and now everything works, I'm happy as hell right now. Had an intersting incident with a giant air pocket in the cooling system, but its all good now. As far as I can tell there aren't any leaks, and that black magic fan works damn good. I'm gonna try to clean up my engine bay tomorrow and i'll be sure to get pics after i do. Thanks for the help guys.
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