wesmcbride

iTrader: (2)

Here is the situation: shifter will lock up if the clutch is not fully released in a gear. In summary I can not get out of 1st or R without fully engaging the gear.

Scenario: backing out of a spot. Put in R, R doesn't get fully engaged (riding the clutch), shifter stays locked in R. I have to turn off the car and put it in N and start again to get it out of reverse. The shifter literally locks in reverse until it is gear is fully engaged.

This is especially annoying when trying to parallel park/3 point turn.

Also, with this problem in stop and go traffic when 1st doesn't get fully engaged (we will say that it starts to go at 1/2 way out) and I have to put the clutch back in to stop, then go again. The car will start to go at say 1/4 of the way out now. Eventually to having the clutch fully pressed and the car still goes. Reverse is the same except it will stall instead of just going.

Do you follow?

I have not checked anything yet, it just started the other day. What would cause this?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

They're going to tell you to bleed the clutch slave cylinder, or to adjust the clutch pedal rod so it pushes deeper into the clutch master. That's a good place to start but I'd recommend finding out how long ago the clutch had been changed, and buy a whole new clutch kit along with a new pilot bearing and pilot seal. Throw out bearing, too.

Just a note, I got an Exedy 10806 kit recently which contained all these parts but didn't come with a plastic alignment tool for some reason. The picture shows one with it. I already had one so no problem. The pressure plate is the same as Racing Beat sells as their street strip now, and is a little heavy for daily driving on a stock port.

Then if all new parts don't solve the problem, replace or rebuild the clutch master and slave. One always goes out right after you change or rebuild the other. Also might as well get a new braided stainless hose too.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like the clutch is not disengaging when you fully press the pedal. If you can
afford it do like Jeff says and replace all the clutch bits (pressure plate, clutch, master
and slave, pilot and throwout bearings) do it. That way you know you've killed
the issue.

If on the other hand your strapped for cash, try seeing whats up.

Does pumping the clutch help? If it does then it may just be the master/slave
going bad or just needing to be bled thru with new fluid. Also look for leaks
at the slave and the master and under the carpet inside by the clutch pedal.
Master and slaves are cheap and easy to replace. Also replace the hydraulic
line as well.

Is it making a grinding noise while in nuetral or our of gear? May be the pilot
bearing, in which case you would need to pull the tranny to fix and might as
well do the entire clutch while its out.

Is it making some whining bearing noises only when the clutch is pushed
in all the way? Might be a throw out bearing. Same as above, out with the tranny
and new clutch bits.

Does it surge in 4th or 5th gear when you floor it on the highway. Definite slipping
clutch. Again, out with the tranny and new clutch bits.

This is why Jeff is saying just go for a full clutch job, otherwise your just postponing
the inevitable.

wesmcbride

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, replacing the entire clutch system is what I was trying to avoid...

Driving forward from a stop ---->WOT in 5th, there are no problems or grinding noises. The only thing it does is when you don't fully engage reverse/first it won't let you leave that gear.

As for the history of the clutch, I do not know - It is an 82 GS with 71,000 miles on it.

captainbizzaro

Mine used to crunch when selecting reverse every time without fail and then be a pain in the *** to get back out of reverse, bled the system through and it's sorted not a crunch since.

rwatson5651

iTrader: (5)

Doesn't sound like it is slipping so I wouldn't worry about the clutch before I replaced or repaired the clutch master / slave cylinders.

I would replace both unless you are really strapped for cash, in which case you can diagnose them to see which one is going out and consider rebuilding the failing part. The risk is that you buy the rebuild kit and it does not fix it ( which sometimes happens) and then the money you spent on the rebuild kit and the time spent is wasted. Also you risk a tow fee if it craps out on you on the road somewhere.

Both the slave and master new will cost somewhere around 30 or 40 bucks, money well spent I say.