I believe your local Autozone should have a set in stock that they rent out. Basically charge you cost of set and refund cc charges when you return them after use.

 

They do, it’s just not “essential travel” right now. I can probably get away with it but still. The whole state is locked down.

Any alternatives? Safe ways to test with a multimeter?

 

Slowly turning a GS into a GSL-SE, I have often thought "Why didn't I just buy a GSL-SE to begin with? Thanks for this thread!

 

Same where i am,but i've been to parts store,etc...go for it! Wear your mask.

 

In PA we have the "stay in place" rule but you are allowed to go shopping anywhere that is allowed to be open. So the restaurants and bars are closed, as are the entertainment places (movies, sports).
But all auto care places sre open, because cars are essential. Everyone has to wear a mask though, and stores have limits on # of people.

 

Ok, I checked continuity on the injector wiring to the ECM and it was as expected. I’ll check other continuity while I’m in there later.

Next up:
1) Pull fuel filter and check it out (when it stops storming here and I can push the car out...)
2) Replace injector pigtails and retest continuity
2) Acquire Noid light and check injectors are firing while cranking?
What else?

The lack of issues I’ve found so far makes me wonder if this was just due to the AFM being unplugged while repeatedly cranking. Maybe more gas came out the rear housing at first due to the position of the rear rotor in the housing? The only unexplained part is how gas kept coming out of the rear housing with injectors disabled and plugs out while cranking unless I’m wrong there too and the rear housing rags just happened to catch more gas. I feel like I’m running in circles here. Trying to take solace in the fact that the engine at least sounds like it has good, even compression

 

AFM being disconnected means no fuel,car could be cranked til battery went dead or starter burned up,whichever occurred first and...no fuel. IF you had pressurized rail and AFM in your car was disconnected,you have an anomaly you've not yet uncovered.

I think you need to put eyes on wiring from fuel pump forward to fp relay and ignition switch.Prove the circuit to be unmolested as factory or has been modified and return it to factory condition and move on depending on what is found.

 

Has this car run previously in your possession WITH all the current wiring and components,other than the engine itself?
,

 

Yes, aside from developing a hot start issue due to dropping compression it ran perfectly. Hardly had any issues the 4 years I owned it once I got it fixed up. It ran right up to when I pulled the engine. That’s part of the reason I’m going this route instead of doing the s5 computer, fuel, etc right now. I figured it would be a quicker way to break it in using stuff that I know works

The only pieces that changed are the keg itself, the intake manifold, throttle body minus TPS, coolant temp sensor I think (threading is bigger than SEs), and the injectors were cleaned but reused

 

Noid lights finally showed up and the new injector connectors have been installed. The light is off when the key is in the on position as expected, and when cranking with everything plugged in (AFM, TPS, etc) I see steady pulses of light from each connector. I think it’s all in good shape.

I also found zero continuity issues, but I did discover my timing was incorrect. It’s probably a good thing the car didn’t try to start. At this point I’ve looked the whole fuel and ignition system over and it seems to be working, so unless an injector is physically sticking open it should be able to start and run without flooding. I’ll still keep an eye on the rear housing when I try to start it later today

 

Good luck!

 

The car started right up! It hardly even cranked. I had a coolant leak at the thermowax so I had to shut it off after a minute, but it doesn't look like there's any issue with the fuel system.

I think what happened was a few things:
1) My fuel pump kicks on without the AFM plugged in for unknown reasons (I'll figure it out)
2) Repeated cranking dumped a bunch of gas into my engine
3) The rear rotor appeared to have a stuck injector probably due to the position of the rotor when I pulled the plugs out. Gas came gushing out the rear rotor but didn't come out the front rotor until I rotated it

Thanks for all the help in this thread. I learned quite a bit about troubleshooting fuel issues

 

Probably had a bunch of fuel in exhaust system. You're probably relieved it's running. Need to fault trace fuel pump wiring,must be modified wiring in that circuit.

 

...or someone has a shunt across the Fuel Pressure Test Connector by the Airflow Meter. This test shunt should be removed to prevent flooding.

 

Wherever the wiring is messed up, it’s not in the engine bay. The test connector is fine. It’s probably under the dash. I know it’s been messed with before by a previous owner but I couldn’t find a clear problem yet