storage suggestions
#1
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Location: Atlanta, Ga
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storage suggestions
I just got my assignment to go to Korea in June for a year. They won't let me take it with me. So, unless i drive it form Alaska (where i am currently stationed) to Georgia (where my nearest relative) I will have to store it. Belive me when i say i do not want to store it. But if push comes to shove, what are some things i will want to do prior to locking it up.
Oh, yeah, selling IS NOT an option. I just bought it a few months ago, I hav elots of plans to fix it up.
Thanks for any help you guys can give me.
Oh, yeah, selling IS NOT an option. I just bought it a few months ago, I hav elots of plans to fix it up.
Thanks for any help you guys can give me.
#2
RX for fun
iTrader: (13)
Just unplug the battery's negtaive terminal, remove the dizzy's rotor (theft protection) and thats it. Now, when you get back
**do an oil change.
**Pour a cap full of regular oil thru the carb, then handcrank it to lubricate the seals.
**Reinstall the distributor rotor and new/clean plugs, then start away.
**do an oil change.
**Pour a cap full of regular oil thru the carb, then handcrank it to lubricate the seals.
**Reinstall the distributor rotor and new/clean plugs, then start away.
#3
Burning Oil-Grinding 3rd
You might.
Pull the fuel pump fuse and let it run out of fuel.
Staybill in the tank.
put some oil down the carb and turn a little.
park the tires on a board.
disconnect the bat.
I dont like car covers if it will be out in the weater but it is a good ideal to cover the windows from the inside.
Do an oil change before storage.
Or just turn it off disconnect the bat and dont worry.
Pull the fuel pump fuse and let it run out of fuel.
Staybill in the tank.
put some oil down the carb and turn a little.
park the tires on a board.
disconnect the bat.
I dont like car covers if it will be out in the weater but it is a good ideal to cover the windows from the inside.
Do an oil change before storage.
Or just turn it off disconnect the bat and dont worry.
#4
Too old to act my age
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Tulsa, Ok.
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Fuel stabilizer in the tank, preferably full to prevent drawing moisture.
Place it on jackstands, and bleed the air down in the tires.
Disconnect the battery, removal is better.
Car cover on the car, inside storage prefered.
Place it on jackstands, and bleed the air down in the tires.
Disconnect the battery, removal is better.
Car cover on the car, inside storage prefered.
#5
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
So far so good. Many people like to run the fuel tank dry, this is the worst thing to do. That's when they rust out. Full tank and Sta-bil, make sure you run the engine a bit after the Sta-bil to get through the entire fuel system. I have a 2nd gen tank sitting in the garage and the bottom 1/2 inside looks brand new, the top 1/2 is rusted where the fuel level stopped.
On another note for preservation, detail and wax the car, clean all mud and road debris from the bottom and oil it, especially if stored in humid areas.
Fresh oil and coolant prior to storage will reduce the corrosive effects of old oil and coolant. Same can be said for flushing the brakes and clutch hydraulics.
On another note for preservation, detail and wax the car, clean all mud and road debris from the bottom and oil it, especially if stored in humid areas.
Fresh oil and coolant prior to storage will reduce the corrosive effects of old oil and coolant. Same can be said for flushing the brakes and clutch hydraulics.
#6
strictly business
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Yea, the moisture thing works. Just make sure yo don't expose too much of it. Alaska is cold, so you should be alright. Watch out for the coolant, sometimes it can freeze.
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#10
RX HVN
iTrader: (2)
I agree with all the Above (though I have never bothered with the jackstand part)- and:
-no matter where (inside or out) you store it - park it on a sheet of 4 to 6ml thick poly. Sheet should be the same footprint size as the car, not bigger. This stops moisture from the ground attacking your undercarriage. As much a problem on concrete as gravel!!
-remove the rear cover (or the rear storage bin on the driver side in an FB)- the harness for the fuel pump is there: when you have done what the Guy's have recommened: the added fuel Stabilizer - run the engine WITH THE PUMP HARNESS DISCONNECTED (ie pump is now OFF) till the car stalls. You have now gotten most of the fuel out of the carb...
-remove the air cleaner, place a piece of plastic over the carb mouth, seal it down with an elastic and place the air cleaner back on.
-likewise wrap the tail pipes with a plastic bag each and use an elastic or zip tie to hold these in place. The idea is to seal off the engine from both ends against external moisture entering.
-if the paint job is worth preserving, buy a quality car cover IF (!!!) the area you park is not subject to WIND. Anchorage should be OK unless your up there in the Hills? Covercraft makes a couple of nice, weather-resistant models starting around $160. As good as a garage! If indoors, even a light indoor cover (hell, a white bed sheet) might keep people that are bumping around your garage from scratching up the paint or - gawd forbid, they should put something on the car....
BTW I live in Alaska too. Do what has all been recommended here and your baby will fire up first turn of the key! Mine does every spring!! Good idea to change the fuel filter when you get back and resurrect her...
Thanks for looking after the USof A Over There, man. Be safe-
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
-no matter where (inside or out) you store it - park it on a sheet of 4 to 6ml thick poly. Sheet should be the same footprint size as the car, not bigger. This stops moisture from the ground attacking your undercarriage. As much a problem on concrete as gravel!!
-remove the rear cover (or the rear storage bin on the driver side in an FB)- the harness for the fuel pump is there: when you have done what the Guy's have recommened: the added fuel Stabilizer - run the engine WITH THE PUMP HARNESS DISCONNECTED (ie pump is now OFF) till the car stalls. You have now gotten most of the fuel out of the carb...
-remove the air cleaner, place a piece of plastic over the carb mouth, seal it down with an elastic and place the air cleaner back on.
-likewise wrap the tail pipes with a plastic bag each and use an elastic or zip tie to hold these in place. The idea is to seal off the engine from both ends against external moisture entering.
-if the paint job is worth preserving, buy a quality car cover IF (!!!) the area you park is not subject to WIND. Anchorage should be OK unless your up there in the Hills? Covercraft makes a couple of nice, weather-resistant models starting around $160. As good as a garage! If indoors, even a light indoor cover (hell, a white bed sheet) might keep people that are bumping around your garage from scratching up the paint or - gawd forbid, they should put something on the car....
BTW I live in Alaska too. Do what has all been recommended here and your baby will fire up first turn of the key! Mine does every spring!! Good idea to change the fuel filter when you get back and resurrect her...
Thanks for looking after the USof A Over There, man. Be safe-
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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