nick812

I am getting ready to put a stock intake and carb on my 12A. I think I am gonna send the carb to carl or stearling for a rebuild. I have never even tried to use a stock nikki so been doing alot of reading to get ready for this. I still have a few questions.

1. on the spacer there are 5 vac. All those can be pluged right? And if so what is the best way block them?

2. shutter valve there are 2 on it 1 is already pluged where does the other go? I was thinking to the airfilter housing.

3. I have 1 other hose not blocked which I would guess goes to the brake boster.

I ll post pics of the intake I am gonna be installing tomorrow.

Then next on to the carb to see If it needs rebuilt or not.

warwickben

iTrader: (1)

what year is the motor. if you know what it is just look at the rats nest guides. whish i could help iam still learning.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

1) You need one of the vacuum ports on the spacer for your vacuum advance. Run some vaccum hose from each of the dash pots on the distributor to a T-fitting. The third nipple on the T-fitting goes to the front vacuum nipple on the spacer. Plug the back four. I use 5/32" vacuum caps from Autozone to block them off.

2) Take the shutter valve all the way off of the intake manifold. It's much easier than trying to wire it open. After you have it out you will have to plug the hole where the butterfly shaft went through the intake. Get some JBWeld putty and fill the hole in with it. You should be good to go then.

3)There are two other openings on the intake manifold that come to mind. There is a big one about the size of a dime that goes on the bottom back side of the intake. I think that it may go to the ACV in the stock configuration. Anyway, this big opening on the bottom back of the mani gets plugged. I usually fill it with JBWeld putty and then cap it too, just to be safe. Finally, the long weird curvy pipe that comes off the back of the intake manifold is the one that goes to the brake booster.

Let me know if you have any more questions. I can post pictures of my setup if need be. I've been through this several times before...

Jamie

nick812

pics of my intake.

nick812

Jamie thanksfor the help. Which of the 5 did you use for vac. for dizzy? And is this a must? I have never had the vac advance hooked up.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

Okay Nick here we go. I took your pictures and made some comments on them. What you have going looks good, I just have a few suggestions from my own research/experience.

1) The giant vacuum cap that you used on the back of the intake manifold can be eliminated if you get the racing beat blockoff plate (part number 16320 on Racingbeat.com). They make a blockoff plate for that thing that goes right up against the manifold. This will allow you to take off that small 90 degree pipe and clean things up a lot. It will also give you a better seal and eliminate the chance of a vacuum leak through that monstrous vacuum cap.

2) It looks like the gasket(s) have been removed from your black phenolic spacer. I'm pretty sure that they are intended to be permanent gaskets, and you are not supposed to take them off. I don't think it will really cause you problems, but I would definitely put a new paper gasket on either side of that spacer. If you end up chasing vacuum leaks after everything is installed, this is one of the first places that we should suspect. I'd go ahead and give it a shot with new paper gaskets though.

3) The vacuum advance system accounts for the time that it takes to burn the air fuel mixture in the engine. When you are only doing 750 rpms the mixture has plenty of time to ignite. However, when your engine is screaming at 6000 rpms, there is less time for the air fuel mixture to completely burn. So, to account for that your ignition system will "advance" the timing. Basically, it sparks earlier so that your fuel mixture still has time to burn and create power. Also, at these higher speeds there is going to be more air and more fuel, which will also make the process take longer.

So, the cliff notes version would be that the vaccuum advance changes when the spark plugs fire to give you a good complete burn regardless of how many RPMs the engine is turning.

Jamie

nick812

2) It looks like the gasket(s) have been removed from your black phenolic spacer. I'm pretty sure that they are intended to be permanent gaskets, and you are not supposed to take them off. I don't think it will really cause you problems, but I would definitely put a new paper gasket on either side of that spacer. If you end up chasing vacuum leaks after everything is installed, this is one of the first places that we should suspect. I'd go ahead and give it a shot with new paper gaskets though.

Yea I got paper gasket.

It was ranning so much today I did nothing but sleep. Now that I got the intake almost done I try to clean the carb up a litttle bit.

I am having problems removing the screws on the butterfly's of the shutervalve is there an easy way to do it?

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

Sadly, no. I have never come across an intake manifold where you can actually remove those dumb things. They ALWAYS strip out, so don't feel too bad. The best way to get that thing out of there is to drill out the screws (with a VERY sharp drill bit), remove the butterfly, take out the shaft through the hole, and then finally plug the hole.

Just have patience, and above all try not to damage the manifold. You can do whatever you want to that shuttervalve, but try to protect the intake manifold above all else.

Let me know if you need more help. We're starting to get you all straightened out. Glad to see that you didn't give up on the Nikki. It's really fun when you get all the crap removed and just have the basics on there. You'll really be proud of it when its done...

Vashner

Did you hit em with a little PB blaster?

I think Satan actually designed that butterfly and the shutter valve himself as a way to sell a lot of Nikky carb rebuild kits.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

PB Blaster is like water to those screws. It does nothing to them, and believe me I've tried. I hate those things with a passion. The worst is if you drill them out and then the butterfly gets stuck in the shaft and won't come out. So of course you try to pull it out with pliers but that doesn't work. So finally you knock the butterfly out of the shaft with a hammer. But, in the process you bend the shaft. Now the shaft won't come out of its hole because you bent it during the hammering. Very frustrating to say the least. I've had that happen to me a couple of times. I ended up just cutting the thing in half with my dremel. Then you can remove each piece in halves. You can try soaking the screws if you want, but I'm guessing that you won't have much luck. Declaring total war on the shutter valve is really the only way I've had repeated success with.

nick812

Ok bumping this up Had lots of problems with thos screws and I wasn t really wanting to use my drill so I tried the drimel but ended up with the big drill took me only a few mins. Now I am working on cleaning the intake up some more then on to the carb.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

You're getting there. Stick with it! Getting that butterfly out of the manifold was probably the hardest part of my whole carb/intake job. The carburetor rebuild is tedious and time consuming but I wouldn't really call it hard. There wasn't anything that broken or refused to come apart. As long as you go slow and make sure you know what you're doing, the Nikki rebuild is really pretty fun.

Jamie

brandon davis

iTrader: (3)

dont the SA mannys have no ACV or shutter valve, also the intake tracks are shorter?

nick812

Ok do I have to run the the spacer? I am not gonna run the vac advance. I think I ll need shorter studs but can it be done?

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

No. The butterflys in the carb can't open because without the spacer they interfere with the manifold. Sit the carburetor on top of the manifold and try it. You'll see what I'm talking about. Besides, the spacer makes the intake runners longer which should effectively increase your low end torque....

Jamie

84stock

iTrader: (5)

Just modify it for an edelbrock 500 thunder series.

84stock

iTrader: (5)

One of these days I'm gonna find a local that want's to test thing out. I even have an old holley 600 vac sec for a donor carb to test as well.

nick812

Are you doing a write up? Where did you get the adapter? I had thought about doing something like that.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALUMI...spagenameZWD1V

yetterben

i'd like to see that in action!

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

I'd like to see and hear the edelbrock to compare it to a Sterling carb.

rotaryB-2000

sterling carbs have amazing drive ability, HP, response and overall performance in all RPMs.....

holley, edlbrock, and carter carbs are all volume casted with "it is what it is" emphasis...

just the other day i purchased 4 BG series round screw type boosters for my holley 650DP carb and when i recived them i thought they would be some nice cnc machined components but it looks like the same china trash that everyone else with a big name on it....

Sterling carbs are hand crafted ....

nick812

got the intake on the car went to take pics an either the batterys are bad or the charger so I ll go buy new batterys and see if that helps.

nick812

some pics not the best.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

Looks great. You're getting so close you should be able to smell the exhaust fumes...