Stock carb rebuild kit recommend
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Stock carb rebuild kit recommend
Hey everyone, been out of the 7 game for a very long time and just got another fb. I still have my dsm for making power with and would like to turn my new rx7 into a daily. With that said i would prefer to keep the stock carb and the rats nest.
Can someone recommend a good budget carb repair kit. I've seen some on ebay for a good price, has anyone had any experience with any of them? Recommend a seller maybe?
Another question, what is all i can remove under the hood (to clean up and simplify things) that's not going to affect my gas mileage? Thank you
Can someone recommend a good budget carb repair kit. I've seen some on ebay for a good price, has anyone had any experience with any of them? Recommend a seller maybe?
Another question, what is all i can remove under the hood (to clean up and simplify things) that's not going to affect my gas mileage? Thank you
#2
Always Wanting to Learn
iTrader: (49)
GP Sorenson is a good brand for rebuild kits, I believe you can get them on RockAuto or at a parts store.
Are you looking to keep the car stock? You mention you just want to daily drive it. If that's the case I'd leave most of what is under the hood right where it is.
Are you looking to keep the car stock? You mention you just want to daily drive it. If that's the case I'd leave most of what is under the hood right where it is.
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yes, powerplant wise i want to leave everything stock, at least for now. Was kind of glad to find an unhacked car but it does have a lot of miles on it. The only things i might do to it is nice suspension in the future and maybe fab up my own exhaust since the one on there now is rusted to hell. Lol
Thanks for advice, looking forward to start driving a classic rotary car again.
Thanks for advice, looking forward to start driving a classic rotary car again.
#5
carb whisperer
hygrade from rockauto is a good kit. Has everything in it youd want, and even some stuff you wont have a use for. Its cheap too, if that matters.
Only thing about the hygrade gaskets I dont like is the baseplate gasket. Its very thin and easily tears.
I made one out of Bun N material and painted it with a light coat of shellac compound and let it tack up before install. Works great and has a perfect seal.
I will say that the gasket in the kit will serve you well enough so long as you dont start boosting or anything.
Only thing about the hygrade gaskets I dont like is the baseplate gasket. Its very thin and easily tears.
I made one out of Bun N material and painted it with a light coat of shellac compound and let it tack up before install. Works great and has a perfect seal.
I will say that the gasket in the kit will serve you well enough so long as you dont start boosting or anything.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Leave the stock needles and seats alone. Also leave the floats alone.
Only change to new needles if the old ones don't function properly anymore. In other words, they let in too much fuel due to age/mileage on the little rubber tips.
Only change to new needles if the old ones don't function properly anymore. In other words, they let in too much fuel due to age/mileage on the little rubber tips.
The car drives and starts good but is low on power. So far, i replaced most ignition components but still need to check timing, compression/vacuum and replace fuel filter. If that doesn't solve low power issue i will be rebuilding the carb.
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#8
Lapping = Fapping
iTrader: (13)
It is because the new seats in all aftermarket rebuild kits are machined incorrectly and cause instant flooding. This is an industry-wide problem. The best course of action is to leave the original parts alone and only change the needles if the originals are worn out ie they don't close off incoming fuel anymore. This could take 200,000 miles or more to become a problem.
Other parts in the rebuild kit can be used such as the rubber o-rings and gaskets for the sight glass windows and the accel-pump diaphram. Be careful about the air horn gasket and choose the right one. Also trim any holes that don't align. The baseplate gasket is very thin as mentioned, so cut a new one from thick gasket paper. The phenolic spacer gaskets are permanently bonded and can not be removed, nor should they. This means ALL THE SPACER GASKETS IN THE KIT ARE USELESS.
It's the little things that need the most attention.
Other parts in the rebuild kit can be used such as the rubber o-rings and gaskets for the sight glass windows and the accel-pump diaphram. Be careful about the air horn gasket and choose the right one. Also trim any holes that don't align. The baseplate gasket is very thin as mentioned, so cut a new one from thick gasket paper. The phenolic spacer gaskets are permanently bonded and can not be removed, nor should they. This means ALL THE SPACER GASKETS IN THE KIT ARE USELESS.
It's the little things that need the most attention.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Gotcha...but kind of a bummer since the car in question has over 320k miles on it. If somebody wanted to fully rebuild the stock carb with correctly machined parts, is there a way or is replacement or aftermarket carb the only two options?
#10
carb whisperer
The "aftermarket" options arent the greatest, and in many cases cause even more problems than the tired factory carb.
The nikki is cheap and awesome, fix it up.
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
^^Thanks buddy, will keep that in mind.
On another note, drove the car around today longer than before while running erands and as i got closer back home the cars power came in to a more acceptable level. :-D
I guess, it just needed to be driven more. Might not even need to touch the carb at this point.
On another note, drove the car around today longer than before while running erands and as i got closer back home the cars power came in to a more acceptable level. :-D
I guess, it just needed to be driven more. Might not even need to touch the carb at this point.
#12
Psalms 37**25
It is because the new seats in all aftermarket rebuild kits are machined incorrectly and cause instant flooding. This is an industry-wide problem. The best course of action is to leave the original parts alone and only change the needles if the originals are worn out ie they don't close off incoming fuel anymore. This could take 200,000 miles or more to become a problem.
It's the little things that need the most attention.
It's the little things that need the most attention.
We need a good source for them.
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