Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

First off, UGH.



And also ERR.


Got the coilovers on, and the car hardly leans when you turn it. Problem is the 4" DEAD ZONE. The top of the steering goes to 3 o'clock before it begins to do anything! VERY ANNOYING. Cruising down the highway and I have to keep bouncing from the left contact point to right contact point just to keep her straight.

I have adjusted the steering box, and it comes back after a few weeks. I think the answer is the almost destroyed bushings in the steering components. I have a poly set here for the front and rear, and I wanted to ask you guys a few questions on installing it:

1. Do I need any presses? I plan on just cutting them out and/or FIRE

2. What all tools are needed? I have all the basics like wrenches and ratchets, screw drivers, but the dremel is burned up.

3. Would it take me about a day to do the fronts? That is all I really need. Wouldn't mind doing the backs, but I hear you have to tighten them when the car is sitting on the ground. Hard to do that when it is lowered!


Main reason I am asking is ZOOM FEST! It is happening this weekend and I would love to actually steer through a turn without having to do a complete revolution of the wheel.

Thanks guys. Oh, and I did search under "steering" but nothing really came up.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

what kind of shape are tie rods, pitman arm, and the idler arm in?

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

They are about 4 years old, done before I got the car. Still looks good

cmanns

I got this exact thing too and my brothers 79SA felt similar (never drove it) the wheel slops left n right about 3o clock or 11 o clock before turning much at all.

Post your solution when you find it

Kentetsu

Is this the method you used to adjust the box?

Okay, if your's is the same as mine, here's whatcha do;

Very important! Grind the beveled edge off of the large socket that you are going to use. It is almost impossible to get that one loose without rounding the corners off even without the bevel on the socket.

Okay, once that is done then get that large nut broken loose. If you manage to do that then you are home free. Once it is loose, then hold it while you turn the next largest nut (mine has a series of holes drilled into it). I used a hammer and cold punch to turn it. Tighten it about 1/8 of a turn, then retighten the large nut and take it for a drive.

This will be a trial and error type of thing. If its still too loose, then tighten that inner nut (the one with the holes in it) another 1/8 turn. If you end up getting it too tight then your steering will loose its self-centering properties and will quickly wear out completely.

I got lucky the first time I tried this. Took it for a drive and there was damn near zero freeplay, but not too tight. I used to have about 2" of freeplay, which was a really exciting setup, but not too practical. Now, when driving down the road small adjustments are almost done telepathically! This changed the entire feel of my car. By far the best thing I have done to it as far as improving the driveability and fun factor...

Just wondering, because my issues never came back. Could be the bushings though. How's the idler arm?

Bushings are a bitch, plain and simple. The best tool for the job is a fire, and I don't mean a propany torch, but rather a good old fashioned bon fire. Throw the parts in there and watch the bushings squirm their way out in a matter of seconds.

Also, be prepared to replace the bolts for the A arms. I had to cut mine off because the sleeves had rusted to the bolts. I used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel after two days of frustration, and got them off in a couple of minutes.

Before you tighten everything, lower the front of the car down onto some ramps. That way you can still get under the car to tighten everything up.


.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

I agree with Ken. I built a wood fire in the BBQ and put an end of each link in the fire. Once the bushing was really burning, I pulled the link out and held the burning end over a bucket of water. The burning bushing will just drop out into the fire. You will need to clean them up just a bit and probably repaint. Also, it will make quite a bit of black smoke with the smell of burning rubber. I tried other methods (like using a jaw puller) and nothing worked like using the fire.

Once everything is off and the bushings are out, putting everything back together is pretty easy.

Give yourself a couple days to do it as there is always something that doesn't go as planned (stuck bolt, something breaks, etc.).

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Stu you better check your idler arm and end links as a poly
bushing kit probably isn't going to solve that much of a play in
steering problem. Most of those kits are for the torsion bars,
the control arm pivot and the sway bar links. None of those
would cause your wheel to be loose by 90 degrees. It's
definitely worth doing if your pulling the front end all apart tho.

The control arm bolt/bushing can be a pain in the a$$ to get out.
Just figure on cutting it with a cutoff wheel right now Also mark
your torsion rods and nuts before loosening that way you can get
them back in close to original specs.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Thanks everyone, I am in the process of taking out the linkages now.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Everything on the passenger side is out, that took me 5 minutes,

Well, the drivers side is another story. The long bar (?) will not come off the pitman arm (?) from the steering box, and the tie rod end's castle nut, the metal piece that you thread through the castle nut was broken off, so thats going to be next to impossible to get out.

Any advice on getting the pitman arm off? I have put a piece of wood on it and beat the crap out of it, no budging.

Kentetsu

Are you sure you want to remove the pitman arm? The only way I've heard of ever getting them off the shaft is by cutting them off. Good luck...

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

I will pass on removing the pitman arm. I am just trying to get the long arm off the pitman. Sorry if I confused you lol. I am still trying to learn the steering parts and their names. They look like rods to me.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

I had no problem removing my pitman arm. Just used a pitman arm puller. You can borrow them from autozone.

Stu: Are you using a puller for the tie-rod ends?

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

No, I just undo the castle nut and place a block of wood on the threaded end and tap it with a hammer. It comes right out, atleast the passenger side did. The drivers side has the metal shim broken off inside and I can't get it pulled off.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

You can use a ball joint fork and a hammer to knock em apart probably.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Yeah. Try a fork or a puller. I found that some were pretty tight. The puller popped them out pretty easily, though.

Just a tip: The Black Dragon catalog is a pretty good reference when putting everything back together when dealing with suspension or steering work.

http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icata...t.aspx?Page=60

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

No ball joint fork here

Going to try again in a few.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Hmm, my #6 is inverted from the picture in the BD catalog. The metal piece that keeps the castle nut from spinning off (I would say the shim? not too sure) is broken inside, and the eyelet is too far recessed in to grab with pliers.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

New tie rod ends will give you back steering control?


Maybe that is what I need done. I wonder if Advance auto has a set handy or if I will have to order them.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

If you have an autozone close by, you can borrow either a fork or puller for free. Just have to put down a deposit. Good luck.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

You must be talking about the cotter pin. Can you fit something (like a paperclip, finish nail, etc.) through the other end of the hole to push the cotter pin out?

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

tried a paper clip, it just bent. I will look around for some nails that might fit. Good thing I haven't showered yet.

Called autozone, the guy said I could probably get by with just getting the outer tie rod ends and getting the steering back. I would be looking at about $60.

SOMEONE BUY MY HAWK PADS

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=stering

Just read up on this thread and went out to check my bushings on the idler arm. MAN THOSE THINGS ARE GONE. going to call mazda now

'87 turbo II

iTrader: (1)

Stu, I've got an extra set of idler arm bushings you can buy from me at ZF. We can do it on Saturday and prep you for Sunday.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Those are easy to fix. So your other steering parts are good an tight then?

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Not doing the PDX, the parade laps are on saturday

I called mazda and my guy said he can have both for $6 at my discount by wednesday. This way I can put them on and see if that cured it or helped it in any way.

Thanks though!