Starting up after a few years
#28
thanks for the link. its not hydrolocked as i could still turn it by hand. where is the thermal reactor and how hard is it to pull? its not going to cause a nuclear explosion is it? i haven't started it yet so if anything is in there it came through the exhaust ports wet.
#29
Old [Sch|F]ool
I wouldn't worry about the thermal reactor, I've ATF'ed my 80 a couple times no problems. (That was before I put the MSD on it... after that it never once flooded on cold start!)
The T.R. is basically a huge specialized exhaust manifold, and it is a severe bitch to remove even with the engine out of the car.
The T.R. is basically a huge specialized exhaust manifold, and it is a severe bitch to remove even with the engine out of the car.
#31
Right near Malloy
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Originally posted by jeremy
ok, i put in a quart of atf and a quart of mmo. i couldn't get the car on its side to put it through the lead plug hole so i pulled the air can and put it through the carbs. i used a breaker bar and turned the engine over a few times. turned, filled, turned, filled, etc. where and which fluids for the dif, transmission, whatever i left out.
ok, i put in a quart of atf and a quart of mmo. i couldn't get the car on its side to put it through the lead plug hole so i pulled the air can and put it through the carbs. i used a breaker bar and turned the engine over a few times. turned, filled, turned, filled, etc. where and which fluids for the dif, transmission, whatever i left out.
Next time go down to your local Wal*Mart. They have small turkey basters for like US$2 at the most. Attach about three inches of some small hose like fuel line to the end. Bingo boingo, instant squirter device to get it in the lower spark plug holes.
The turkey baster makes sure you don't get TOO much fluid in the engine.
Put in a shot, Turn the crank one full spin (Put a spot or some tape on it to keep track.) Shot, Spin, Shot, Spin. Repeat for the other rotor.
You can pull on the belts really hard and the engine should spin.
You wanna make three full spins per rotor, with one shot between each spin. Gets the ATF or MMO on each side of the rotor.
Let her sit for a day or two. Badda bing, Badda boom. good to go. Old plugs in, fire up. let it warm up, go highway driving to clean it all out, change spark plugs.
#32
yeh, i was going to try the funnel and hose thing but i only had the funnel. 2 quarts wasn't to bad. used the breaker bar and spun the engine with the plugs out and spewed it out like a wet fart. can't say i didn't have the seals well soaked. fill the carb, let drain, turn. over and over.
#33
Rotary Freak
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Be prepared for more smoke than you have ever seen in your life.
Do it after dark if you can, otherwise the neighbors may call the fire department.
Or you can have a friend spray water from a hose over the smoke as it's exiting the exhaust.
Oh yeah, have another friend shoot a video of the whole thing, it makes a great beer story.
Seriously though, have a fire extinquisher handy. If you have any holes in the exhaust the ATF is very likely to catch on fire under the car, especially considering the mass quantity that you put in the engine.
Don't ask me how I know this!
hanman
Do it after dark if you can, otherwise the neighbors may call the fire department.
Or you can have a friend spray water from a hose over the smoke as it's exiting the exhaust.
Oh yeah, have another friend shoot a video of the whole thing, it makes a great beer story.
Seriously though, have a fire extinquisher handy. If you have any holes in the exhaust the ATF is very likely to catch on fire under the car, especially considering the mass quantity that you put in the engine.
Don't ask me how I know this!
hanman
#35
Driven a turbo FB lately?
iTrader: (1)
Yeah if you used 2 quarts total, pull all 4 plugs and crank the engine over via the starter. Get a shitload of rags cuz its gonna make a HUGE mess. Crank the starter on the car via the key in for no more than 10 seconds and wait about 30 seconds before cranking again you dont wanna ruin the starter Also while cranking make sure you have fresh gas in the tank, and pump the **** outta it. This will kinda purge the engine with clean gas and wash all the extra outta there... Once the liquid exiting the spark plug holes in almost pretty minimal (kinda close to a mist instead of globs of liquid) Put semi good plugs in it, and wash the bay down really good. You dont want to accidently catch the engine bay on fire. Now with that done attempt to start it, Id imagine you will have to pump the gas quite a bit to get a combustible mixture in there.... Once it starts its probally gonna smoke for a LONG TIME. Once its ran for say 10-15 minutes. Id turn the engine off, and let it cool a little. Put new plugs in it, new dist cap and misc ignition compenents (well its a 79 with points and I dunno **** about them/whatever basically is considered a tune up in a pre electronic igntion car?) Now change engine oil, coolant, trans fluid, and rear axle oil. With that done go for a test drive
#37
I read your email
Originally posted by Pele
Next time go down to your local Wal*Mart. They have small turkey basters for like US$2 at the most.
Next time go down to your local Wal*Mart. They have small turkey basters for like US$2 at the most.
#38
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Originally posted by inittab
LOL! Too funny! I bought that exact same turkey baster for my MMO treatment! Maybe Wal*Mart should re-label it a "rotary baster" and stick it in automotive.
LOL! Too funny! I bought that exact same turkey baster for my MMO treatment! Maybe Wal*Mart should re-label it a "rotary baster" and stick it in automotive.
I bought it to take brake fluid outta my Honda's resivour as the fluid was blacker than used oil.
I looked at the baster and said, "HEY! This is PERFECT!"
Later I realled that I had the baster in my trunk when I was checking a low compression GSL-SE out. Stuck some hose on, and good to go. It really was perfect.
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