camden superchargers
#1
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camden superchargers
what do you guys think of camden superchargers(the ones atkins rotary manufacture)?also whats the limit on how high i could rev it up with this supercharger?also any thing betteri should look at?
thanks
thanks
#2
Rotary Freak
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I feel that Atkins is a good house. I have purchased one of their rebuilt engines. They were good on timing and advice.
As to the revving question, the supercharger is going to help you on the bottom end not the top. If you are looking for top end horsepower you may want to look at turbocharging instead.
of course that's just my opinion, I could be wrong,
hanman
As to the revving question, the supercharger is going to help you on the bottom end not the top. If you are looking for top end horsepower you may want to look at turbocharging instead.
of course that's just my opinion, I could be wrong,
hanman
#3
I can has a Hemi? Yes...
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Originally posted by hanman
As to the revving question, the supercharger is going to help you on the bottom end not the top. If you are looking for top end horsepower you may want to look at turbocharging instead.
As to the revving question, the supercharger is going to help you on the bottom end not the top. If you are looking for top end horsepower you may want to look at turbocharging instead.
Last edited by Directfreak; 03-30-02 at 08:20 PM.
#6
standard combustion
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i heared somehere that with a roots style supercharger that i could only go up to 6200 rpm?
Also by underdriving the supercharger with a different pulley, you screw your boost at lowend improvement from the supercharger. This sugguests that the supercharger is moderately undersized because of the pulley they provide is set up for lower rpm range and overspun by 6200rpm which is 48,000rpm at the supercharger. Hence a larger supercharger with a pulley to support at least 7500rpm with out breaking is in order.
Also with that kit was the problem with the fuel pump that came with it, and its brackets. They are not enough for the N/A car with any improvements to the engine. Air filter, headers, etc, etc. When all is said and done, you spent 5000bucks for a 210hp engine.
IF you manage to get more HP then that, you'll wreak your N/A tranny anyway, better to just go TII and already be near that HP with $3000 or so for the whole car.
I am unfimialer with roots-type superchargers fitted to rotaries. Except they are roots type. And no one I can find knows the answer to what engine rpm you can go to before damaging the supercharger. The big benfit of the roots charger is you can fit your holley on top and not worry about a special fuel pump or what not..
#7
smog nazi destroyer
carburated should not pose a problem with a turbocharger.. i hav a carbed 13b that i am thinking about turbocharging myself, that is after i redo the suspension and body work.
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#8
Rotary Freak
well im getting a camden with next years income tax return,
here's the deal,
i take it you have a 12a correct?
well the only super for a 12a is a big bad 7"
while the 13b can get a 5" or a 7"
the 7" has a very high psi rating, 15 lbs
as to the 6.5 lbs of the 5"
chances are you will not need to run it at max,
most people feel comfortable with a moderate boost setting of 6.5
here is a quote from camden
"At6.5 lb. of boost you can conservatively expect 35-50% increase in Hp. You will feel the boost as low as 1500 rpms as the supercharger is making power, and torque at a lower rpm due to the fact that the Supercharger spools up faster than a turbo. When shifting gears you will not lose your boost. "
@ 50% thats 150hp on a stock motor,
but because you have to add a big ol holley your motor is no longer stock,it would also be smart to add a nice exhaust system,
which should bring you closer to a 60% increase over modified hp,
modified hp will depend on your engine but should be around 115-125
@125hp + 60% = 200hp
which is the very most i'd expect at a conservative boost setting,
now if you jump from 6.5psi
to 15psi or even just 13psi
well im sure you would get the picture,
of course this means rejetting the carbie and possibly buying an even bigger holley.
here is another special note from camden but is intended for the 13b
"Camden Superchargers recommend that boost be limited to 6 psi on an engine having a compression ratio of 8.5 to 1 when running on premium unleaded fuel of 92 octane. If your engine has a lower compression ratio, it is possible to increase the boost. Conversely, if your compression ratio is greater than 8.5 to 1, it will be necessary to reduce manifold pressure to prevent detonation"
have fun!
here's the deal,
i take it you have a 12a correct?
well the only super for a 12a is a big bad 7"
while the 13b can get a 5" or a 7"
the 7" has a very high psi rating, 15 lbs
as to the 6.5 lbs of the 5"
chances are you will not need to run it at max,
most people feel comfortable with a moderate boost setting of 6.5
here is a quote from camden
"At6.5 lb. of boost you can conservatively expect 35-50% increase in Hp. You will feel the boost as low as 1500 rpms as the supercharger is making power, and torque at a lower rpm due to the fact that the Supercharger spools up faster than a turbo. When shifting gears you will not lose your boost. "
@ 50% thats 150hp on a stock motor,
but because you have to add a big ol holley your motor is no longer stock,it would also be smart to add a nice exhaust system,
which should bring you closer to a 60% increase over modified hp,
modified hp will depend on your engine but should be around 115-125
@125hp + 60% = 200hp
which is the very most i'd expect at a conservative boost setting,
now if you jump from 6.5psi
to 15psi or even just 13psi
well im sure you would get the picture,
of course this means rejetting the carbie and possibly buying an even bigger holley.
here is another special note from camden but is intended for the 13b
"Camden Superchargers recommend that boost be limited to 6 psi on an engine having a compression ratio of 8.5 to 1 when running on premium unleaded fuel of 92 octane. If your engine has a lower compression ratio, it is possible to increase the boost. Conversely, if your compression ratio is greater than 8.5 to 1, it will be necessary to reduce manifold pressure to prevent detonation"
have fun!
#13
Rotary Freak
Originally posted by riffraff
i didnot think that you could hook up an a/f gauge to a carbed car...
i didnot think that you could hook up an a/f gauge to a carbed car...
tell that to the autometer a/f sitting on my dash,
you just buy an o2 sensor,
i use a bosch platinum tip o2 #11025
its a 1 wire sensor,
then run it to your a/f meter
#14
smog nazi destroyer
true true..
but the a/f gauges are so unreliable anyways, that if i was going to do any welding to my header, i would just weld in a sensor for an egt...
but then again, i donot have to deal with that now, since i will be a long while until i can afford to go turbo, if i decide to at that time
but the a/f gauges are so unreliable anyways, that if i was going to do any welding to my header, i would just weld in a sensor for an egt...
but then again, i donot have to deal with that now, since i will be a long while until i can afford to go turbo, if i decide to at that time
#15
Rotary Freak
Originally posted by riffraff
how can you test what amout of boost you should run on a given setup? how can you tell before it starts detonating, and blows your engine
how can you test what amout of boost you should run on a given setup? how can you tell before it starts detonating, and blows your engine
one smart thing to buy or actually 2 smart things
would be an msd 6al or higher series ignition "i cant remeber",
what the system will do is retard your igntion timing for preset boost levels to help prevent detonation,
you would have to contact camden to find out which carb would be best for your setup,
then use an egt gauge "or a/f gauge if you dont have $125.00"
to dial in the holley,
if your still worried about detonation then run a little rich,
this will make you lose a little power but help save your engine,
also do check into the msd boost retard systems.
also run premium fuel only,this will also help
#16
Rotary Freak
Originally posted by riffraff
true true..
but the a/f gauges are so unreliable anyways, that if i was going to do any welding to my header, i would just weld in a sensor for an egt...
but then again, i donot have to deal with that now, since i will be a long while until i can afford to go turbo, if i decide to at that time
true true..
but the a/f gauges are so unreliable anyways, that if i was going to do any welding to my header, i would just weld in a sensor for an egt...
but then again, i donot have to deal with that now, since i will be a long while until i can afford to go turbo, if i decide to at that time
an a/f gauge may not be totally acurate but will get the job done,
it all depends on what you buy,
good o2 sensor,good gauge,
although my a/f gauge is top of the line name brand it's not as good as other out there,
i jsut got it because i plan to run an egt sooner or later and it looks so damn pretty
also helped a ton in adjusting my carb
and one saved my buddy from blowing up his engine with a n.o.s.,
"note how i put "a" before nos,yes nos does stand for "nitrious oxide system" and saying with nos is not proper english,however with a nos is.
just thought i'd point that out so people dont think im talking "ricey"
so their not useless
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