Well i miss my old FC.....i currently drive a NB miata
i have a 6-port 13b out of an 88 sitting in my yard.
Plans are to rebuild the motor (full bridge)
im unsure as to going n/a or fi yet. But this will be a low budget build. I am currently looking for a 1st gen shell and like the prices im seeing for some good condition cars.

This car will be stripped to hell. I'm going as far as dry-icing the interior and possibly metal dash. i would like <2000lbs

another goal is 220whp. I'm not too familiar with trying to get power out of a N/A rotary, only FI as i had a T2 motor in my 91' vert.

How achievable is 220whp n/a? or even 200.

What should i look for in my project. I know i want an lsd. Are the lsd that came in the gsl's any good, or would i be better of with an FC lsd? I also have the FC tranny with my 13b.

I'm sure i will come up with more question as i progress. That is why i made this thread.

Thanks, Dylan

 

anyone?

 

<2000lbs will be tough to reach. I helped a fellow forum member strip his SA and we were only able to get it down to just under 2100lbs. The only things left in the interior were drivers seat, the metal dash support, steering wheel, pedals and shift ****. We also removed the headlight buckets and motors and replaced them with fixed headlight. FBs are slightly heavier to start with so getting down to that will be even tougher especially with a 13b in one.

I'm not super knowledgable about making high power NA motors, but I'd have to say it's probably a lot easier to make that kind of power with a FI motor. The lsd in a gsl/gsl-se is a clutch type, similar to the ones in the series 4 models. My gsl-se has 405k miles on the LSD so I guess they're pretty reliable

You CAN mount up the second gen transmission but it's not exactly plug and play. You'll have to fab up a mount and you'll need a custom driveshaft. Another thing is you'll need the front cover off of a GSL-SE for your second gen motor, as well an oil pan. If you get a car that was originally a 12A car you'll need to either modify the cross member or swap it out for a GSL-SE cross member.

 

thanks for the info man, thats the kinda basics i was looking for

 

When it comes time to address the suspension, be sure to check out www.re-speed.com Best products and customer service by far... Good luck with your project man.

 

Okay wow... back it up...My SA in my sig is well under 2000 pounds...with the gas tank gone, the doors cut, and lexan windows...Now correct me if im wrong but home boy said he wanted to strip the hell out of the car...Well to get under 2000 pounds you got to do what you got to do to get there...

Now for power lets start with what your going to need in order to drop that 13b and 13b tranny into the chassis

1. Your going to need the mazda trix 13b motor mount to fit into a 12a chassis...
2. Your going to need 1984-1985 gsl-se front oil cover
3. your going to need 1984-1985 gsl-se oil pan with pick up tube!!!
4. For the tranny to bolt up to stock location in the tranny tunnel... You have to take the tail shaft cover off your tranny swap it for a 12a tail shaft cover and every thing will fall into place...
5. For LSD go with the gsl or the gls-se rear end limited slip they work well...If you don't want that just weld it...For the drive shaft just use the gsl-se or second gen drive shaft and your good to go...

Now for power it all depends on what you want to do...also what you want FI or Carb setup...what is the car going to be used for...

 

Couple things i thought id add teddy, You only need the GSL SE front cover if you want to retain the OMP. Otherwise you can use any 12A front cover.

For the 13B motor mount into 12A chassis, racing beat has one for about 100 bucks, OR you can use RE-Speeds front crossmember, which is a bit more expensive but if you are all about saving weight, that crossmember is quite a bit lighter than the stock one. something like 40 lbs IIRC

 

That's a good point. It also allows you to mount either a 12a or 13b, takes you halfway to installing a rack and pinion steering system, and I believe there are a few other good points that should be considered. Worth checking it out as an option, and the cost might work out the same since you won't (I believe) need a different front cover or oil pan etc.

 

True true...good stuff...but i think home boy is trying to save as much money as possible without spending too much...but in my opinion i would go with what was suggested up above with the re-speed set up...you will get your money back in the long run...

 

Just trying to point out some options

 

i am on a bit of a budget....but the crossmember is something i already looked into, im thinking about buying the whole R&P set-up. The car will be used for road course duty and maybe the occasional drift event to spare my miata the torture.

Looks like i have a list of part for now. First step is to rebuild the motor and get it bridge'd

O and sorry of my lack of knowledge, but what is the OMP? And is it worth retaining?

 

OMP=oil metering pump...you can use it or you can take it off and just premix...

 

aw nah its all good bro...lol

 

Alot of the racing guys premix because they are running higher rpm all the time so they just put in the mix of oil they want for the high rpm conditions and then there is no need to worry about whether or not the OMP is keeping up

OR some people who dd their cars retain the omp and just add 8 ounces (i think) of MMO or something like that. Pretty sure its Bliffle or the other Bly guy that recommends that

 

Also, with Re-speed's crossmember what motor mounts would i use?
Just for reference my budget will be about $8k over the next year. With all work done by me, or a friend.

 

Its a race car right, occasionally driven on the street?

I would use Mazda Comp Mounts.

You could use Solid mounts as well.

 

i was refering to 12a swap mounts or 13 mounts. im assuming 13b

yes, race car with street use. actual streetability not needed

 

Oh. I think the way the crossmember is set up you can use the mounts of the engine going in.

I guess Billy would be the best to ask as im not sure how he has it set up

 

Yes, you can PM Billy here on this site. His screen name is Bwaits. He'll answer all of your questions. He is extremely knowledgeable and a nice guy to boot.