http://www.putfile.com/media.php?n=RX7_WONT_START

That's the video of my GSL-SE not starting.

1) Battery Terminals have been changed.
2) Ground wires have been cleaned and tightened.
3) New Spark Plugs
4) New Wires
5) New DIzzy Cap & Rotar
6) Timings set right


Duh whats going on george?

- Tech

 

check your fuel pump and injectors.

 

How do I test them?

 

Not that Im a pro, but mine did the same thing once and I replaced the fuel filter and it started right up and ran stronger than ever. $3 fix.

 

could be floded
or check the igniter connectors

 

I had the same issue cleaned plugs and blew out the rotor housings let it sit for an hour, reinstalled plugs and she started right up.

 

Mikee...that's brand new in my car (maybe two months old).

Ignitor connections are fine.

knight, usually that works but the past few times it hasnt been that easy.

 

Did you try to disconnect the blue spade connector on the trailing coil. If it fires up, you know it was flooded. Your tach is moving while cranking, so the trailing ignitor/connections are probably okay. NewRx7 on here was having flooding issues, etc. and he traced it back to the signal wire from the trailing coil (blue spade connector) was shorting out in the harness. He found this because when he had the key on, but engine off, he would get a spark when he connected the blue spade connector to the coil.

 

Let me try that

 

No spark if I turn the key to on and tap the spades to the post...

 

What if you crank the engine now with the connector off. Does it start? (Should start for a second then die if it was flooded)

 

With the blue spade off, brb

 

Took the blue spade off, it started (acted as if it was running on one rotor) and then died.

 

So it was probably flooded then. You should be able to put the spade back on and it should start and continue to run. We just need to figure out why it is flooding. You could put a switch on the fuel pump for now (I have one on mine). That way if it doesn't start right away, turn the switch off, crank until it fires, then flip the switch back on and it will continue running.

The flooding may be caused by a leaking injector, bad coolant temp sensor, or more rarely a bad ECU. Also, have you checked your fuel pressure?

 

Coolant temp sensor is brand new as per your instructions, it helped the smoke on start up a little but nothing major.

I doubt the ECU is bad, is it possible though.

I'm leaning more towards the injectors, how do I set up a switch for the fuel pump? It's getting gas because you can smell it when its starting up.

How do you check the fuel pressure?

 

Nope,

Didn't start when I put the spade back on...batterys dead now.

- Tech

 

If you have a multimeter, you can check the voltages at the ECU and compare to what is listed in Haynes/FSM. This would help you determine if there is a bad sensor or something. If you have a test light setup to adjust your TPS, you can easily check to see if there are any error codes on the ECU. I have a thread in the archieve that tells how to check. That will let you know if the AFM or something is bad.

The fuel pump cutoff switch can either be wired inling to the fuel pump relay (should be under the dash) or inline to the pump power itself (this is how mine is wired). Take out the drivers side storage bin and you should see the wires for the fuel pump. You'll want to wire the switch (use a 25 or 30 amp switch) inline to the fuel pump + wire (should be a blue wire). Then just mount the switch under the seat, on the dash, or wherever you would like.

For the fuel pressure, you need a fuel pressure gauge with a tee. Connect into the fuel supply line. Should be about 28psi at idle. The testers are pretty cheap to buy. I can send you mine if you would like to borrow it.

Kent

 

Well,

I know the TPS is out of whack for sure.

I'm just ready to sell the car, I'm holding off to see if I get this job, if I do I'll keep the car, but if I don't I'm going to have to sell it.

If I send you the money can you rig me up a adjustment switch for the TPS (I saw your thread) and a switch for the fuel pump and pick me up a fuel pressure gauge (or sell me yours?)

- Tech

 

Sure. I could put you together a TPS adjustment rig. They are pretty simple. I think that I have a couple spare plugs that will plug into the TPS test socket. I could set you up with a setup just for the TPS and then a separate test light for the ECU if you want. For the switch, you can pick one up at any local autoparts store. Just look in their electrical section. Get a switch that can handle 25 amps or so.

For the fuel pressure tester, they are about $25 or so to buy. Or I can send you mine and you can just mail it back when you are done with it.

 

Alright,

So PM the details to me on where to send the money and how much.

- Tech

 

that sounds just liek my 84 GSL-SE does sometimes. Push the accelerator all the way to the ground while it's starting. That's what solved my problem. Im gonna get the fuel line replaced when i have the time but its a quick fix.

 

So your problem was the fuel line?

 

Dont step on it all the way when starting it. Thats what the Injection and the ECU are for. If you have to just tap it a little.

If its flooding try putting a vice grip on you main fule line. It should be the biggest of the 3 fuel hoses closest to the drivers side.

I had this problem every once and a while on my SE, and everytime I used the vice grips it worked. Even if you have someone to help, if you can pince the line it should start also.

Never got around to figuring out what the problem was thou.

-Ryan

 

Mine just floded again yesterday / Pull the plugs out and crank it 4 a while/ make sure to disconnect the blue spade terminal on the trailing coil
And also if Your battery is weak it will not start even if its unfloded( But then again my car is running mega rich) shoot some nice flames tonight!

 

Stupid SOB (the car not you),

It's getting fuel (plenty of it) but now it doesn't do that random jump in rpms, it just turns now, doesn't partially fire at all.

- Tech