spring rates
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: vermont
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
spring rates
what are people running for spring rates, race or street, I plan on making coil overs, I have done it on other cars before but I have no idea what a good spring rate would be. any one know what the aftermarket street kits equate too.
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,829
Received 2,597 Likes
on
1,845 Posts
350F 175R here, my car is light, and if i had to street it id go with 300/150 or something
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: vermont
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
sweet i think i have some 350's and some 150's kicken around i will try those first and go from there.
thanks guys
probably a little high for the street. but its not going to cost anything to try them that high and if I need lower I can swap them out.
thanks guys
probably a little high for the street. but its not going to cost anything to try them that high and if I need lower I can swap them out.
Last edited by elmer fudd; 05-04-10 at 01:15 PM.
#5
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,829
Received 2,597 Likes
on
1,845 Posts
its not like 350 is way too high, and if your car is a little heavier than it'll be better
Trending Topics
#8
Lives on the Forum
275/150 here. Works great for everything from daily driving to killing Miatas in autocross. Put on 2,400 miles a couple of weeks ago when I went down to run the tail of the dragon.
You want to keep your rear spring rates roughly 50% of your front rates. 350f/150r will give you some aweful understeer tendencies.
.
You want to keep your rear spring rates roughly 50% of your front rates. 350f/150r will give you some aweful understeer tendencies.
.
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: vermont
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
my other cars are lookers, I want this to be a real driver.
#10
Zoom Zoom
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 638
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm curious as to why everyone runs relatively low spring rates on FBs. I'm also somewhat knowledgeable about miatas and on the for the street they commonly run 350+ in the front, with some people going up to 700lb springs for race cars. Miatas also weigh about the same as our cars. Is there something different about our suspensions that like lower spring rates?
As for me I'm running discontinued Eibach springs with are something like 200ish on the front (but progressive) and around 110 in the back.
As for me I'm running discontinued Eibach springs with are something like 200ish on the front (but progressive) and around 110 in the back.
#11
325 front and either 150 or 175 rear (I forgot), koni red's. Car rides very nice, not harsh at all. I was surprised, I thought I went a little too high in the front but its great. I have an S model but with gslse suspension and series 4 turbo motor (so some extra weight added).
#12
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,829
Received 2,597 Likes
on
1,845 Posts
I'm curious as to why everyone runs relatively low spring rates on FBs. I'm also somewhat knowledgeable about miatas and on the for the street they commonly run 350+ in the front, with some people going up to 700lb springs for race cars. Miatas also weigh about the same as our cars. Is there something different about our suspensions that like lower spring rates?
As for me I'm running discontinued Eibach springs with are something like 200ish on the front (but progressive) and around 110 in the back.
As for me I'm running discontinued Eibach springs with are something like 200ish on the front (but progressive) and around 110 in the back.
the miata has the strut in the middle of the arm somewhere so the strut only moves like 1" for every TWO inches of wheel travel.
different motion ratio = different spring rate at the WHEEL (sometimes this is called wheel rate)
i did a search on the miata forum, and they don't seem to know what the motion ratio is, but their 700lbs spring might give the same wheel rate as our 350# spring
make sense?
#13
Needs More Noise
iTrader: (12)
yes. the miata has a different motion ratio. with the FB the wheel and the strut (and spring) move about the same amount, 1" at the wheel = 1" at the strut.
the miata has the strut in the middle of the arm somewhere so the strut only moves like 1" for every TWO inches of wheel travel.
different motion ratio = different spring rate at the WHEEL (sometimes this is called wheel rate)
i did a search on the miata forum, and they don't seem to know what the motion ratio is, but their 700lbs spring might give the same wheel rate as our 350# spring
make sense?
the miata has the strut in the middle of the arm somewhere so the strut only moves like 1" for every TWO inches of wheel travel.
different motion ratio = different spring rate at the WHEEL (sometimes this is called wheel rate)
i did a search on the miata forum, and they don't seem to know what the motion ratio is, but their 700lbs spring might give the same wheel rate as our 350# spring
make sense?
I would also add that many people (not knowing any better) think more is better when it comes to spring rate............... Hey if that guy used 500# I am going to run 600# and beat him............In the mean time I am going to sneak past both of them in the exit of turn 1 with my correct spring rate.
-billy
#14
Lives on the Forum
Here's how I look at it, based on my own results and from watching some other 7s at the races with 450lb springs. If there is the slightest deformity in the surface, they look like they are sprung so hard that they "skip" across the surface in a turn. Their tires are not maintaining contact with the surface. Ever skip a flat rock across a pond before?
Meanwhile, with my 275 Lb springs, I'm absorbing a lot more of those bumps and keeping the rubber on the road. This, of course, makes for a lot more traction.
They use spring rates to control body roll, where I use swaybars to do it. My car corners flat, but I still have a controllable ride. And while my competitors freely admitted that their cars were not streetable (all came on trailers), I can honk my horn as I pass by them after the races. And run to the grocery store. And drive to work. And make a trip down to DGRRX.
If you want a pure track monster, then go for it. But if you still want to enjoy your 7 for anything other than all out racing, keep the springs on the lighter side and go with strong swaybars.
And if anybody in the relatively local area ever wants to see exactly what I mean, just stop by one of the events and I'll let you drive my car. Several have done so already, and they are total converts now...
Meanwhile, with my 275 Lb springs, I'm absorbing a lot more of those bumps and keeping the rubber on the road. This, of course, makes for a lot more traction.
They use spring rates to control body roll, where I use swaybars to do it. My car corners flat, but I still have a controllable ride. And while my competitors freely admitted that their cars were not streetable (all came on trailers), I can honk my horn as I pass by them after the races. And run to the grocery store. And drive to work. And make a trip down to DGRRX.
If you want a pure track monster, then go for it. But if you still want to enjoy your 7 for anything other than all out racing, keep the springs on the lighter side and go with strong swaybars.
And if anybody in the relatively local area ever wants to see exactly what I mean, just stop by one of the events and I'll let you drive my car. Several have done so already, and they are total converts now...
#15
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (3)
Here's how I look at it, based on my own results and from watching some other 7s at the races with 450lb springs. If there is the slightest deformity in the surface, they look like they are sprung so hard that they "skip" across the surface in a turn. Their tires are not maintaining contact with the surface. Ever skip a flat rock across a pond before?
...
...
Based on the description of how your car is setup, kentetsu - bushing materials, use of the stock rear suspension and a rear sway bar - I would say that your rear "spring" rate is actually higher than you think. But given the setup you are running a 150 spring is probably more than enough and a good choice.
I do club racing now - used to solo. I was shocked to find out that race tracks are not smooth by a long shot. All of the track I race on have turns with ripples in the braking zones and uneven pavement patches in the turn exits. You can't believe what the transition seam from the front straight into turn 1 at Gateway International is like. Or the pavement transitions at HPT where the track crosses over the drag strip. My car has stiff springs but with good shocks and struts these bumps aren't an issue.
Same was true with my old Solo Mustang. Some of the parking lots around here are pretty bad but they could be managed.
The key is in the shocks - I use Konis on front and Pro Racing shocks on the rear of my car. Spring rates on my RX7 are 400 - 450 front and 300-200 rear.
#16
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,829
Received 2,597 Likes
on
1,845 Posts
our race car (the honda in the sig) is on 750/1200 lbs springs. in sprint trim its full spherical bearings, enduro trim its poly/stock rubbers. we also run koni's...
it IS totally unstreetable, we tried.
it IS totally unstreetable, we tried.
#20
Can Post Only in New Member Section
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Orange
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Now, would 450f/335r be too stiff? I'm daily driving my 7, but I don't mind a stiff ride for daily use. Those are the spring rates on the coilovers I'm getting, and they have adjustable dampening. Should I be fine if I soften the dampening, or will I tripod either way?
#22
Can Post Only in New Member Section
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Orange
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is where I'm getting mine. This company and Techno Toy are the only companies that still make coilovers for SA/FBs. That company just came out with coilovers for first gen 7's at the end of 2015, and the people that use that brand are pretty happy with them.
#23
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Are RBs springs generally considered pretty soft? This car is my fun daily driver, so not sure how serious it needs to be. Not sure I can justify big dollars on a custom coilover setup if cheaper springs will get me something nice for the street.
#24
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Racing Beat website says "rate increase of approximately 20% (front - 145 lb/in) and 20% (rear - 112 lb/in)". That seems soft compared to other reported rates in this thread, but I imagine with the sway bar package, they are sporty but not necessarily racy. I've been considering the Racing Beat setup for commuting and occasional auto-x events. I picked up this FB as a fun car. I don't need full road race prepped suspension, but I do want the feel of a more modern sports car.
#25
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Racing Beat website says "rate increase of approximately 20% (front - 145 lb/in) and 20% (rear - 112 lb/in)". That seems soft compared to other reported rates in this thread, but I imagine with the sway bar package, they are sporty but not necessarily racy. I've been considering the Racing Beat setup for commuting and occasional auto-x events. I picked up this FB as a fun car. I don't need full road race prepped suspension, but I do want the feel of a more modern sports car.