I wonder how the engine held up?

Actually, this info came at perfect timing, since I
amf finishing my ported engine rebuild this weekend..

 

Try this site for info on a hard break-in, and WHY it's better.
(More specifically try this link which is the link to look for on that page)
That site is specific to motorcycles, but it applies to all piston engines. Does it apply to rotaries? Why wouldn't it?

What on a rotary has to be "broken in?"

 

Beak in procedure is necessary for keeping close tolerences later in engine life. When you have loose tolerences, you get blowby, poorer compression, quicker wear, etc. It would be just plane stupid to not follow it. I am in the process of rebuilding my motor right now, and i know how you feal, but I want my engine to put out the most power possible as well as last as long as possible so i dont have to rebuild it so damn much. ITS A PAIN IN THE ***!!! ALL THIS CLEANING SUCKS!!!

 

that thread is written for brand new street bikes, which use completely different materials than our rotaries.
I would stick with what mazda and racing beat recommends, known and trusted companies, rather than some guy on a websight without little to no sources to back him up. Why risk it?? plus, by what he says, the first 20 miles is the most important. youve already got 300 on it. So going by his standards, your already screwed
stick to what the rotary experts say

 

didnt realise it was old lol, i thoguth it was on first page, maybe that was of search