Spark Plug Socket
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04-19-05, 06:32 PM
#8
Strength & Unity
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I just took one of my spark plug sockets and ground it thin. I took out the old plugs and it was not even the right plug. It had single ground electrode with a v-groove in the center electrode. When I replaced it with BR8EQ14 the lip interference was not even an issue.
lol
04-19-05, 07:20 PM
#10
Rotary Freak
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Originally Posted by drittens
Really? Did yall ahve to use a super thin wall socket....or am I just an idiot....
If this is your first time changing plugs on these cars, DO NOT cut corners by using cheaper conventional single-electrode plugs available in most auto parts stores. These plugs don't last in a rotary and will (and previously have) seriously damage the engine if they protrude in far enough to either make contact with the apex seals (bottom plugs) or interfere with operation by altering the profile of the rotor housing (top plugs). Use ONLY NGK BR8EQ-14 plugs. They're around $10 apiece but they're designed for these engines and, with four electrodes, last longer than conventional plugs would.
Also, don't rely on the person behind the auto parts counter to tell you the truth either. That person typically doesn't know Jack **** about rotaries and wants to sell you a set of plugs. If the NGK BR8EQ-14s aren't available he'll produce a book that identifies a replacement that he happens to carry--- but the book lies. Try Mazda or an RX7 specialty shop.
Last edited by Aviator 902S; 04-19-05 at 07:28 PM.
04-19-05, 07:23 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by Aviator 902S
You're not an idiot--- the socket you need is indeed a thin-wall 13/16" spark plug socket, and it will have a rubber insert inside it to better grip and center the spark plug and protect it from side loads during removal.
If this is your first time changing plugs on these cars, DO NOT cut corners by using cheaper conventional single-electrode plugs available in most auto parts stores. These plugs don't last in a rotary and will seriously damage the engine if they protrude in far enough to either make contact with the apex seals (bottom plugs) or interfere with operation by altering the profile of the rotor housing (top plugs). Use ONLY NGK BR8EQ-14 plugs. They're around $10 apiece but they're designed for these engines and, with four electrodes, last longer than conventional plugs would.
If this is your first time changing plugs on these cars, DO NOT cut corners by using cheaper conventional single-electrode plugs available in most auto parts stores. These plugs don't last in a rotary and will seriously damage the engine if they protrude in far enough to either make contact with the apex seals (bottom plugs) or interfere with operation by altering the profile of the rotor housing (top plugs). Use ONLY NGK BR8EQ-14 plugs. They're around $10 apiece but they're designed for these engines and, with four electrodes, last longer than conventional plugs would.
Couldn't have said it better myself.
01-27-18, 10:06 AM
#15
Bumping an old thread; going to pick up a 13/16 Spark Plug (rubber insert) socket; must it specify "thin wall", or if I go to a hardware store to get a 13/16 spark plug socket that is correct?? I am using the NGK BR8EQ plugs
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