Me again,

Just removed some NGK BP7ES plugs after about 10,000 miles. Yaw had recommended converting plugs like this into side fire by cutting the side electrode, bending and regapping. He claims better performance due to a more exposed central electrode versus the shrouding effect of the stock plugs. I experienced no ill effects and at $2/ plug a very cheap alternative, $12/stock plug here in Toronto.

 

how did you cut and gap the plugs? what is the GAP measurement?

 

Just grind off the part of the strap that covers the top of the electrode witha Dremel, gap according the stock (can't remember figure) by bending side strap in towards electrode with a small hammer and cutting any excess metal in order to get correct gap.

 

Why be cheap like that???

 

I think you miss the point. Paul Yaw advocated side firing plugs as a way to make more power and increase engine responsiveness because of the unshrouded electrode effect. I merely pointed out a side benefit of reduced cost and also wanted to demonstrate the viability of this idea.

 

it is different ..and saves money ..which is a plus ..i'm not buckin ya there..I am just sceptical about the integrity of the spark plugs when inside the chamber..a little porcelian can do alot of damage ..my mind says no..my wallet says..what are you a friggin moron go for it!..i may try it ..if my engine starts to go south though..ngk plats are my click..

 

The standard NGKs are also 4 electrodes so that (in principle) if one is fouled another will fire. I keep 4 rotaries in plugs without going broke, and they don't foul, either.

B

 

Same here. No need for cheap boinger plugs converted to side fire.

 

I agree, that's why I don't have them in anymore. Just another example of doing it for the sake of showing it can be done.

 

don't chip an apex seal...

 

Where do you buy plugs for your RX-7 at a good price?

 

when I purchased my 7 it had the awful autolite plugs installed..these had that side fire design..short electrode....once removed and replaced with the standard ngk's..it idled noticeably better...I'll only be using ngk's from now on

 

Which autolites are those? I have a set of 2626s which have been recommended for the annular electrode, which it is claimed fire better when flooded. But I've not installed them yet.

 

not positive which ones..however here at the parts stores there seems to be only one # for the autolites application..not an expert here but simply looking up autolites here, and elsewhere reveals mostly negative feedback..myself? I wouldn't install them

 

the autolites are shitty, don't even bother, take em back.

people have lost engines from crappy autolites....

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=autolite

 

Advance has a decent price on the NGK's, I'd just go there.

 

I think the plugs that clipped apex seals were the standard single-electrode type, whereas the 2626s have an annular electrode. And they measure up same as NGKs.

One of the guys said the 2626s worked best for him.

So which autolites do they complain about?

B

 

yep the one's in question are the 2626's with the single 'annular' electrode..the NGK's have the 4 electrodes and optional heat ranges..they measure up? no comment....use what you want at your own risk

 

Autolites are good for initial start up after a rebuild when plugs are prone to becoming fouled. When in doubt you can get new one for less than $3 a piece. However after a week, the autolites had black carbon on them. This indicated other problems like oil metering pump set wrong, timing, or air/fuel to rich. It was only a matter of time when the excess carbon build up would affect performance and longievity.

Symptoms dissappeared after instlling new NKG's.

 

That old sparkplug thread cited 2526s, not 2626s. And sparkplugs.com seemed to show a single electrode plug for the 2526. I wouldn't use a single electrode plug on a rotary unless it were side-fire instead of top-fire, for fear of clipping the apexseal. But it looks to me like the annular 2626s would be OK. But the 2626s are sort of moot anyhow since now they cost as much as NGKs.

B

 

And it pays to be accurate about this plug lore. Is it Autolites that are bad or is it top-fire plugs of ANY make? From what i know right now I think the danger is top-fires, even if they are NGK they could be dangerous. This is a danger to folks with SAs or REPUs that have mechanical points that use a different plug with a smaller .030 gap.

B

 

Hey, can we just bypass the sparkplugs all together and make it into a diesel. It should have enough compression to light the biotch up.