sorry for not searching but i need help starting :(
sorry for not searching but i need help starting :(
ok sorry i searched and i'm not sure i found wut i'm looking for. but my rex has been sitting for about 6 months and i haven't been able to start it. finnaly i sat down to try to figure it out. first i put some gas in it cause my gauge is broken and i dind't know if there was enough fuel. then i sprayed some starting fluid in the carb and tryed to start it. it started and reved for 2 or 3 seconds and then died. i'm assuming the car burned off the starting fluid and then died but i'm not that smart when it comes to cars so i realy don't know. it's 8:30 at night and it's dark out. i'm getting bit my mosquito's and i would realy apreciate it if someone could help me out so i can get my 7 started tonight thanks in advance.
-seth
if it's easier you can IM me my s\n is drlppa
-seth
if it's easier you can IM me my s\n is drlppa
check and see if you are getting fuel to the carb by checking hte hoses going to it. Disconnect and see if any gas flows through or soemthign like that, if not check ur fuel pump and filters
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,890
Likes: 14
From: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
"sorry for not searching but ..."
Well WHAT THE ****?! Search yer lazy ***, MF!
-Nah, I'm jess kiddin.
^ months, eh? Yer not startin it tonight, that much I can gaurantee!
First, the fuel pump...you can hear it if you try hard, but it only will come on for a second when you try to crank it. Like when you stop cranking, it'll "whirr" for a half second and shut off. But if you have a friend, it's easier to tell. Or just remove the larger diameter hose (of the two) from the tubes sticking out the carb top, and put it in a container. Try to start for a second, and then see if there's fuel in the container. Should be a bit.
If you don't, tell us.
If you do, then you should just go on the assumption that your ignition system is fine (so long as you haven't been ******* with it)- especially since you said it tried to run for a second.
Now the carb, and most likely culprit. It's gonna be marginal at best as to whether or not you need a rebuild. But even crappy sad carbs can keep a car running till you have the dough...sometimes.
In the carb are two float bowls- thus named because they contain floats. The floats are surrounded by fuel. This fuel come into the bowls by the two tubes on the top. It flows into the bowls, and the float rise with the fuel level. Hooked to the floats are little needle valves that slide into "seats". As the floats rise, the valves close into the seats and stop the flow of fuel. As the engine uses more fuel, the floats drop down, and fuel is allowed to flow again until the floats rise. They both rise at the same rate/time. The fuel level throughout the carb is the same everywhere.
The needle valves have little rubber tips on them for good sealing. But rubber, as we all know, only lasts for so long. The constant compression against the "seat" rims causes a detent ring arount the rubber tips, and they begin not to hold the fuel flow back as well. The bowls then fill completely with fuel, and the carburetor floods. This you can tell by looking at the sight glasses on the sides of the bowls. Really you'll only be able to see the frontmost one. The fuel level should be around the halfway point or ever-so-slightly higher, but exactly half-way while the car is idling. Much higher, and the carb will flood.
If the level is too high, there are complex things going on in the carb that will cause it not to work for idling- not too complex; simple, really; but too much to bother writing up right now.
(TMI TMI AHHHHHH!!!!!)
Anyhooo,
Let us know how your fuel is flowing, O.K.?
Well WHAT THE ****?! Search yer lazy ***, MF!
-Nah, I'm jess kiddin.
^ months, eh? Yer not startin it tonight, that much I can gaurantee!
First, the fuel pump...you can hear it if you try hard, but it only will come on for a second when you try to crank it. Like when you stop cranking, it'll "whirr" for a half second and shut off. But if you have a friend, it's easier to tell. Or just remove the larger diameter hose (of the two) from the tubes sticking out the carb top, and put it in a container. Try to start for a second, and then see if there's fuel in the container. Should be a bit.
If you don't, tell us.
If you do, then you should just go on the assumption that your ignition system is fine (so long as you haven't been ******* with it)- especially since you said it tried to run for a second.
Now the carb, and most likely culprit. It's gonna be marginal at best as to whether or not you need a rebuild. But even crappy sad carbs can keep a car running till you have the dough...sometimes.
In the carb are two float bowls- thus named because they contain floats. The floats are surrounded by fuel. This fuel come into the bowls by the two tubes on the top. It flows into the bowls, and the float rise with the fuel level. Hooked to the floats are little needle valves that slide into "seats". As the floats rise, the valves close into the seats and stop the flow of fuel. As the engine uses more fuel, the floats drop down, and fuel is allowed to flow again until the floats rise. They both rise at the same rate/time. The fuel level throughout the carb is the same everywhere.
The needle valves have little rubber tips on them for good sealing. But rubber, as we all know, only lasts for so long. The constant compression against the "seat" rims causes a detent ring arount the rubber tips, and they begin not to hold the fuel flow back as well. The bowls then fill completely with fuel, and the carburetor floods. This you can tell by looking at the sight glasses on the sides of the bowls. Really you'll only be able to see the frontmost one. The fuel level should be around the halfway point or ever-so-slightly higher, but exactly half-way while the car is idling. Much higher, and the carb will flood.
If the level is too high, there are complex things going on in the carb that will cause it not to work for idling- not too complex; simple, really; but too much to bother writing up right now.
(TMI TMI AHHHHHH!!!!!)
Anyhooo,
Let us know how your fuel is flowing, O.K.?
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,890
Likes: 14
From: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
Your fuel pump is'nt pumping.
Couple reasons it could be-
The pump is not running at all.
1) It could be shot.
Jack up the car and smack it around a bit. (Tap it lightly to free up the piston inside.
)
2) The wiring could be shot.
Chances are, it's not. If it is, you won't know till you install a known-to-b-good pump anyway. So then at that point you should be replacing the wires with bigger gauge anyhow.
3) The fuse could be blown.
Uhhhh- Well, you know.
4) The fuel pump-cut relay could be shot.
Hope you gotta Haynes manual. It'll be a while locating that thing if it is shot. But if it is'nt shot, you should be able to hear it click by putting your head down there under the dash and trying to start it. You'll hear the click after the attempt. Jamb your hand under there and find it- a little metal box. It should be a little warm after trying to start a few times. Not hot, but cold is dead.
*Disclaimer- You are by no means ever supposed to start any vehical without being properly seated in the drivers seat, seat belted in place, and with all doors shut.
You are by no means supposed to ever jam your hand into the electrical spaghetti under the dash fishing for a hot box.
I hereby do absolve myself of any ****** injury whatsoever to you, your person, your personal property, those persons injured as a direct or indirect result of the advice I did not really give, or their properties or posessions, including but not excluding; dogs, cats, kids, horses, ponies, goats, or iguani.
The pump could actually be [trying to work, but the filter could be so badly clogged that nothing will get through.
The hoses could be gummed up from age. The steel fuel lines could be clogged with anything, including rust chips. The tank could have so much sediment in it that the outlet is being covered up.
Change the fuel filter. You can't simply blow through the fuel outlet line from the tank in hopes to clear it because there's a saftey checkball there in case of roll-over accidents.
About the carb... You should get a piece of hose 1/4 inch diameter and about 12 inches long, and hook up your return line. You would have to cap it anyway, but by retaining the return line, you're better gauranteed the consistant pressure needed for setting idle, and generally getting the carb all sorted out.
Be patient. You have work to do, and the carb is going to give you more troubles, but nothing that you can't overcome.
Keep us posted.
Couple reasons it could be-
The pump is not running at all.
1) It could be shot.
Jack up the car and smack it around a bit. (Tap it lightly to free up the piston inside.
)2) The wiring could be shot.
Chances are, it's not. If it is, you won't know till you install a known-to-b-good pump anyway. So then at that point you should be replacing the wires with bigger gauge anyhow.
3) The fuse could be blown.
Uhhhh- Well, you know.

4) The fuel pump-cut relay could be shot.
Hope you gotta Haynes manual. It'll be a while locating that thing if it is shot. But if it is'nt shot, you should be able to hear it click by putting your head down there under the dash and trying to start it. You'll hear the click after the attempt. Jamb your hand under there and find it- a little metal box. It should be a little warm after trying to start a few times. Not hot, but cold is dead.
*Disclaimer- You are by no means ever supposed to start any vehical without being properly seated in the drivers seat, seat belted in place, and with all doors shut.
You are by no means supposed to ever jam your hand into the electrical spaghetti under the dash fishing for a hot box.
I hereby do absolve myself of any ****** injury whatsoever to you, your person, your personal property, those persons injured as a direct or indirect result of the advice I did not really give, or their properties or posessions, including but not excluding; dogs, cats, kids, horses, ponies, goats, or iguani.
The pump could actually be [trying to work, but the filter could be so badly clogged that nothing will get through.
The hoses could be gummed up from age. The steel fuel lines could be clogged with anything, including rust chips. The tank could have so much sediment in it that the outlet is being covered up.
Change the fuel filter. You can't simply blow through the fuel outlet line from the tank in hopes to clear it because there's a saftey checkball there in case of roll-over accidents.
About the carb... You should get a piece of hose 1/4 inch diameter and about 12 inches long, and hook up your return line. You would have to cap it anyway, but by retaining the return line, you're better gauranteed the consistant pressure needed for setting idle, and generally getting the carb all sorted out.
Be patient. You have work to do, and the carb is going to give you more troubles, but nothing that you can't overcome.
Keep us posted.
Trending Topics
i'm gonna go get to work now. :-D oh and i officialy give sterling the unofficial award for being the most thoroughly helpfuland most willing to type person in the world.
He should also get some sort of award for knowing the plural for iguana. now i jus gotta find my damn hydrolic jack i think it ran away.....
-seth
He should also get some sort of award for knowing the plural for iguana. now i jus gotta find my damn hydrolic jack i think it ran away.....
-seth
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
1993fd3sracer1
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
20
Sep 7, 2015 11:50 AM



