Well im sure Zack will pop his head in and comment too, but I got my first 12a rebuild done saturday and in the car sunday. Today I pull started it and got it running. Theres a few questions I am left with, oh and if anyone wants I have full pictures of the rebuild.

The story behind the car, its blew the radiator and lost the seals. It was a pinapple racing street ported motor with less then 11k on it. I tore apart the motor, replaced the seals kit, spec'd everything out and installed it back into the car.

1st question:
Its holding a 2k or so idle that we had to tweak to get it to even stay. I am assuming this is due to everything setting back into place. It also has a bit or heistation/no power, but I am told I should adjust the idle mixture screw to fix this. Is this correct? What else should I check?

2nd.
There is no tach. There was none when I started either, but replacing the coils/checking all the wiring has lead to nothing. Zack told me the tach stoped working after it was serviced, what they did I have no idea. What else should I check?

3rd.
With only a soft seals rebuild, how long should the breakin last? Im not thinking more then 500 miles. No beating on it, high revs.

Other then that, and the fact its LOUD now, its running awsome.
Thanks guys!

 

i know you said you checked coils and wires, but how about the ignitor?

 

I've got a distributor floating around that kills the tach. If you can dig up / borrow a spare, try that and see if it fixes it.

 

I just happen to have a GSL parts car I will got a borrow it off of . I just hate timing this thing, lol.

Any ideas for my other questions? Thanks!

 

I generally go about 3 hours (not idling) and start upping the revs. I prefer about 6 hours before I start flogging it, but I've been known to start going to ~6k or so with 5 hours. This is on a racecar, so I don't pay much attention to miles, but in a 6 hour race I put on about 600 miles, so that math is easy.

There's an idle screw on the carb, is that what you were adjusting to get it to "stay" at 2k?

 

Hey bro, hate to be asking you how she's running every 5 minutes, but .. erm.....
1)How's it running
2)IF it is running why are you not driving it here ;3
3)Pics(Im sure everyone here would love to see our rebuild)
4)Why is the idle so high, jeebus m8ie. Wouldn't poor sealing make the combustion push the rotors less... oh, wait, i think i figured it out. Poor seals = low engine vacuum = carb pumps more gas/air thinking that it is moving at faster rpm, driving idle up. That sounds like it should settle down once the seals seat properly, eh.
5) Wonky tach, eh .... IF the wires are hoooked up straight then the tach should be golden. Sure it ain't the tach unit? Well, wahtec hope it workses outs.

 

1. Its running fine, Has some hesitation and is running very rich, but was before I started working on it too.
2. No gas.
3. Pics as soon as I can get a uploader that works.
4. Idle speed is fixed by adjusting the idle speed screw.
5. No idea on the tach, I checked everything.

 

if you put the apex seals in the rotor they orignaly came out of then break-in should be minimal but if you mix and matched them expect it to take a bit longer to get them to seat. This could be your loss of power you were describing in question 1 and help answer question 3. For question 2 the tach may just be bad or not have power to it.

 

Seals went in the order they came out.
107 miles on it and it runs like a champ! Starts every time I get in it. I even have great oil pressure!

 

Lol I feel silly, sits on idle and teh butterfly is closed, of course it only relies on the idle screw... Anyway som pics are up now, so people can tell us how wrong we putses it togethars ;3
If yous wants em to see bro, links em. I wantses it to run with excellent, that I may start on that tasty parts car's engine soon ... ;3

 

did you replace the corner seal springs (or all the springs for that matter)? These usually lose their springiness after being overheated (they anneal and get softer) and your engine will usually lose low speed compression from this.

 

Yes, he did. The old ones were so carbon encrusted it woulda taken 4-evar to get them in a decent condition, and we wanted that sucka rebuilt quick.

 

I used just some stock oem mazda corner seals from 79-91. These springs all seem fine, but I will check each one.

I tweaked the idle down to 1k, got it to lean out a bit, and it runs pretty good. Starts every time on its own.

 

you didn't say if you tried replacing the ignitor. the trailing one (which feeds the tach) is, i think, the one on the front side of the dizzy.

 

zach said he isnt posting anymore from what I heard

 

I would be *VERY* interested in pics from a 12a rebuild and would even be willing to help organize them into a write-up if you wanted to do that.

Feel free to e-mail them all to my gmail account vipernicus42@gmail.com or PM me on the forum and we can hook up on MSN or something.

Jon

 

1. I used way to much hylomar.
2. I put rtv in excess places
3. It was the first one I have done.....
So bear with me please....

Heres a link to a forum I frequent with all the pictures and write up.
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=862739

 

I think we are talking about a different zack.....