1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Some general input would be nice.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-03-05, 05:27 PM
  #1  
MIVEK's are for wannabe's

Thread Starter
 
Pen_Two's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Waymart Pennsylvania
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Some general input would be nice.

I've had my '85 GSL for 2 years now, and I bought it not running in hopes it would be a simple fix. I'm not to keen on the problem, but that's not the focus of my question.

As of lately, I've been questioning the situation with the car and if it's really worth fixing. Don't get me wrong, I don't want to get rid of it, even if it doesn't run. Below is a link to all the pictures I have taken of the car. I tried to get the best angles of everything on it. I would like to know what you all think about it and what kind of condition it is in.

(Hopefully this link works.)
http://photobucket.com/albums/v297/EYP0097/85%20GSL/
Old 06-03-05, 05:44 PM
  #2  
sprayfoam autobody expert

 
tempusfugitive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Fergus Ontario
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
it doesn't seem too bad at all, i think that front pan can be completely removed, looks like your cats may have been hollowed out, in which case you should remove the rats nest, and all of the emmisions crap.

also check under the bins behind the seats, they are known too rust out, if those are fine, then your car is proably allright. if it runs fairly rough, you may find that removing all the emmisions will greatly improve the way the motor runs.

edit: also scrap the AC
Old 06-03-05, 05:50 PM
  #3  
MIVEK's are for wannabe's

Thread Starter
 
Pen_Two's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Waymart Pennsylvania
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by tempusfugitive
it doesn't seem too bad at all, i think that front pan can be completely removed, looks like your cats may have been hollowed out, in which case you should remove the rats nest, and all of the emmisions crap.

also check under the bins behind the seats, they are known too rust out, if those are fine, then your car is proably allright. if it runs fairly rough, you may find that removing all the emmisions will greatly improve the way the motor runs.

edit: also scrap the AC

Underneath those two bins is fine, and I did find quite a few wires unplugged.

I wish it did run fairly rough, because it doesn't even crank.
Old 06-03-05, 06:19 PM
  #4  
Burning Oil-Grinding 3rd

 
Hades12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Union Mills NC
Posts: 4,094
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Interior looks great.

I had a Hell of a time getting an Auto Started. Normaly when they give me trouble I just pull start them, but that is not an option with the auto.
Old 06-03-05, 07:04 PM
  #5  
MIVEK's are for wannabe's

Thread Starter
 
Pen_Two's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Waymart Pennsylvania
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Hades12
Interior looks great.

I had a Hell of a time getting an Auto Started. Normaly when they give me trouble I just pull start them, but that is not an option with the auto.

All I know that's wrong with the interior is the steering column cover, power window controls, center console cover, and of course that shifer handle.

I bought the Haynes Service Guide so I could get a better idea of how to make ends meet with this car.
Old 06-03-05, 07:19 PM
  #6  
Full Member
 
drozhenbane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Pen,

Hey you got a good starter car there. Stick with the project the rust I see is no major problem maybe a couple hundred bucks at a weld shop will fix you up right. As for the Haynes manual, read it, then read it again, Sleep with it on top your head, and then once you have memorized every word store it on the back of the toilet to read everytime you gotta relieve yourself. This project will be a walk in the park if you take the time to read the manual all the way through, and I mean dont just skip a few pages like the engine rebuild part. Read it all no matter what because you never know what might relate to each other.
Old 06-03-05, 07:23 PM
  #7  
MIVEK's are for wannabe's

Thread Starter
 
Pen_Two's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Waymart Pennsylvania
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by drozhenbane
Pen,

Hey you got a good starter car there. Stick with the project the rust I see is no major problem maybe a couple hundred bucks at a weld shop will fix you up right. As for the Haynes manual, read it, then read it again, Sleep with it on top your head, and then once you have memorized every word store it on the back of the toilet to read everytime you gotta relieve yourself. This project will be a walk in the park if you take the time to read the manual all the way through, and I mean dont just skip a few pages like the engine rebuild part. Read it all no matter what because you never know what might relate to each other.


The only reason I was feeling discouraged was because I've been short one money lately (not now though) and the day I bought a brand new starter, I went to Pep-Boys. They told me it was the last one for an automatic transmission in the eastern states for any of their warehouses. Granted he could have bullshit me, but I ended up paying an outrageous price on it I do think. Something like $225. Body wise, I know with a paint job, it's going to run about $2k to $2.5k because there isn't a panel without a dent.
Old 06-03-05, 07:26 PM
  #8  
Burning Oil-Grinding 3rd

 
Hades12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Union Mills NC
Posts: 4,094
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Tell us what it is doing and we can give you pointers.
Old 06-03-05, 07:28 PM
  #9  
MIVEK's are for wannabe's

Thread Starter
 
Pen_Two's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Waymart Pennsylvania
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Hades12
Tell us what it is doing and we can give you pointers.

The only time I've gotten it to make any progress was the time the starter was working, but not in a good way. The key was in the ignition, but not engaging it, and as soon as I hooked the power to the battery cables, the starter turned on. As long as power was hooked to the cables, the starter would keep going.
Old 06-03-05, 07:37 PM
  #10  
Super Moderator

iTrader: (3)
 
gsl-se addict's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Lynchburg, VA
Posts: 5,088
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Sounds like either a problem with the ignition switch, starter solenoid (stuck), or you hooked the starter up wrong. The batt + cable should go on the side of the solenoid without a wire on it. The other large terminal will have a wire the runs to the starter's body. The smaller wire is the trigger from the ignition switch.
Old 06-03-05, 07:44 PM
  #11  
MIVEK's are for wannabe's

Thread Starter
 
Pen_Two's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Waymart Pennsylvania
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by gsl-se addict
Sounds like either a problem with the ignition switch, starter solenoid (stuck), or you hooked the starter up wrong. The batt + cable should go on the side of the solenoid without a wire on it. The other large terminal will have a wire the runs to the starter's body. The smaller wire is the trigger from the ignition switch.


Tomorrow, pending the weather because I lack a sufficent garage, I'll probably put it up on jack stands and see what I get to. I'm not sure what's what under there, but that's why I got the Haynes book for me. I'll let you know what happens, thanks for the info.

Next weekend I have a friend coming up to give me a hand. I believe he's a member on here too.

Last edited by Pen_Two; 06-03-05 at 07:52 PM.
Old 06-04-05, 11:44 AM
  #12  
MIVEK's are for wannabe's

Thread Starter
 
Pen_Two's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Waymart Pennsylvania
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ok, here's what I'm looking at under there.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...Picture031.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...Picture032.jpg

The two plastic ended wires fit together, but also the socket end of the two also fits on that tab on the starter...

The wire you were reffering to from running from the small solenoid to the big piece, there isn't one. Could it be pre fabbed inside the casings?
Old 06-04-05, 12:18 PM
  #13  
MIVEK's are for wannabe's

Thread Starter
 
Pen_Two's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Waymart Pennsylvania
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Pen_Two
Ok, here's what I'm looking at under there.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...Picture031.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...Picture032.jpg

The two plastic ended wires fit together, but also the socket end of the two also fits on that tab on the starter...

The wire you were reffering to from running from the small solenoid to the big piece, there isn't one. Could it be pre fabbed inside the casings?

It won't let me ediy my messages...yeah, I didn't know what I was looking at in those, but I didn't realize the wire on the starter was hidden on top of the starter out of site. But yes, I know I sounded stupid.
Old 06-04-05, 05:41 PM
  #14  
Super Moderator

iTrader: (3)
 
gsl-se addict's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Lynchburg, VA
Posts: 5,088
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Put the wire from the starter body to one of those large terminals. The battery cable goes to the other large terminal. The black wire with the white stripe goes to the tab on the solenoid. I am not sure about the blue and white wire. It is not a part of the starter circuit.
Old 06-04-05, 07:32 PM
  #15  
MIVEK's are for wannabe's

Thread Starter
 
Pen_Two's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Waymart Pennsylvania
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by gsl-se addict
Put the wire from the starter body to one of those large terminals. The battery cable goes to the other large terminal. The black wire with the white stripe goes to the tab on the solenoid. I am not sure about the blue and white wire. It is not a part of the starter circuit.

Thank you greatly. I won't have time to do this for another 4 days which is due to work to fund this car.

I just thought it was odd that the two plastice ended wires fit together.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
R.O.D
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
34
01-06-16 12:09 AM
Vartok
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
16
10-08-15 04:49 PM
Postman09
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
0
09-29-15 11:23 AM
WyomingTII
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
12
09-28-15 10:32 AM
R.O.D
Rtek Forum
1
09-23-15 01:15 AM



Quick Reply: Some general input would be nice.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:33 PM.