snowbreaker

iTrader: (1)

i got a 79' 7 with a 82' 7 engine in it, with the stock nikki four barrel carb and no emissions, i have a difficulty starting because i have to have the pedal all the way to the floor to open up the butterflies....now i think its gas leaking down into the engine bogging my car so its difficult to start and thus puffing out alot of smoke at the start cause i got way to much gas...but when i look down into the carb after running and no gas is visible to it has to be coming into the system underneither the butterflies but i have no idea where to look first.....now could it possible be the venting for the crankcase? hooked up the valve wrong for it when the emissions disappeared? any input would be great
thanks
kyle

justinfox

iTrader: (3)

I was having this problem before and it was just because I was running it way too rich. Try turning your air/fuel screw in a couple of turns. Check if your plugs have a black coating, that's a sign that the mix is too rich.

FCinWV

iTrader: (8)

Sounds to me like you need to adjust your throttle. The butterflies should start to open immediately on the primary side when you touch the pedal. Id say you are getting too much fuel cause when you push the pedal to the floor your getting a giant shot of fuel out of pump nozzles, thus causing it to be wickedly rich on start up.

snowbreaker

iTrader: (1)

thanks....now what about the gas that i think is leaking down into my intake

FCinWV

iTrader: (8)

I'm not so sure about that one. I'm sure 84stock, RX-7Chris, or Rxtacy will chime in eventually with the solution.. They have pretty much led me through a holley carb rebuild.

Twilightoptics

iTrader: (1)

Definitely need to adjust the cables first.

After that and it's running good warmed up and idle adjusted properly, it should start pretty easy.


For me... key on for 10sec. Pump throttle twice. Crank engine. Fires right up.. Use throttle a little and open the choke to keep the idle up.



There are a few of us here battling an overnight-car sitting- float bowls draining down into the motor-smoke on startup issue. No one has come to a conclusion that I know of.

85TIIDEVIL

iTrader: (2)

Those of us battling the over night sitting float bowl drain syndrome... is the fuel bowl vent solenoid being removed or plugged the common denominator here..???

snowbreaker

iTrader: (1)

yea i have the floatbowl vent solenoid hooked up and thats operating properly, i just found that my trottle cable was pretty lose so well see if that makes a difference

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Nope. My bowl vent system works perfectly and I'm still seeing this problem, but it's intermittent.

Left unchecked, it can lead to early oil ring wear, according to Mazda's engine eval docs.. The fuel flood washes the oil film off the rotor chamber faces, makes seals wear faster

I blame ethanol-blended gas. But because I have scientific proof, I just feel like blaming ethanol today.

Kentetsu

Kyle,

I really think that you're going to be chasing these issues forever unless you rebuild that carb. At the very least, I believe you have clogged jets.

Did you ever find a restrictor for your return fuel line? That would also cause this problem.



.

Twilightoptics

iTrader: (1)

My float bowl solenoid is completed removed from the inside out and vented through the PCV system with the upper vent nipple.

I removed it when it shorted itself and damn near caught fire!

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Suicidal solenoid?

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

valve guides are bad...

:P

(had to)

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

One of my theories has to do with the richer solenoid pin tip not seating well, so you'd not be far off.

snowbreaker

iTrader: (1)

my jets have been completely cleaned and ran it and check the jets and they werent clogged...im just trying to find out everything and anything before i rebuild this sucker. and possibly not have to rebuild it...but i think its in my needle and seat, i think thats my main problem... but dont have alot of time this weekend car show tomorrow at montague whitehall, and mark i ended up going through all my wiring and putting blue electrical tape over top of it all to match my spark plugs and oil cooler lines that i got from parker store...and i also got a different single electrical fan and painted that blue also and mounting it all tomorrow morning...then repainted my air breather...ill gets pictures of the finished product when its all done

84stock

iTrader: (5)

disconnect the wires going to your cold start assist (reservoir below the windshield washer bottle) than take 2 aspirin and try in the morning.

snowbreaker

iTrader: (1)

heh dont have to cold start assist anymore

Kentetsu

Brett, I'll be out of town for a few days, but I'll try to get with you later next week when I get back. Maybe we can improve it a little without rebuilding the carb, but in the long run you're going to have to do it.

If the car is running, are you planning on going to the race in Lansing next weekend?

snowbreaker

iTrader: (1)

alright sounds good were going to check my needle and seat sometime this week

Twilightoptics

iTrader: (1)

No reservoir for me either. Didn't even know what one was until I got my GSL-SE parts car and went "WTF IS THAT?" lol

Richer Solenoid.... not sure if I have that anymore or not. err.... hmmm...

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Right side of the carb, Sticks right out of the middle. Hex-shaped screw-in body, single lead with a bullet connector.

I've got two starboard-side solenoids (Richer, Vacuum Power Valve Control) but many builds only have the richer.

snowbreaker

iTrader: (1)

just thought i would post some pictures of my 79' carb, might be missing something and also i have a couple of questions

1) do the fuel jets change from the different years?

2)can the pvc or pcv system that vents the crankcase is it possible that it can go bad or the way i have it hooked up is incorrect? included is pictures might need more just ask

3) is their a way modifiy the existing accelerator pump for better preformance
on low and top ends?

thanks
i can supply more pictures if you got a question
kyle

ps sorry for the pictures being in attachments not sure how to edit that one for bigger pictures

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

1) yes; they change by year and application (auto vs manual trans, CA versus Fed or Can build). There's a table of jets versus builds in the factory carb manual.

2) The vent valve can go bad. Can't really make out your entire hookup, but it looks at first glance like the tank vent connection has been bypassed or left off.

3) you can adjust the stroke some, and can modify the linkage for more stroke too. There's info on it on Sterling's site.

Based on your pictures... I don't think that carb is original to a '79. It sports several features (like the large unoccupied pad for the later-version altitude compensator in the first pic, the small squared primaries, & the single mix screw) which I have only ever seen on later-year carbs. It's also been rather extensively modified/stripped.

I think maybe that carb is also an '82; would make sense if the engine was a transplant.

snowbreaker

iTrader: (1)

yea but i never had the extra solenoids which showed up in the later years, and i got the old 79' - 80' float bowl solenoid.....and you said tank vent connection has been bypassed or left off which one is that so i can look at it in more detail....a good descripition would be nice
thanks