1. Upgrade your alternator to S4 or S5. S4 is a direct replacement while S5 requires a slight mod to the 2-wire pigtail.

2. DLIDFIS on stock coils. No need to spend appx $250 for 3 MSD blaster coils and MSD 6A or 6AL. You can thank Jeff20b for this idea and it works as good as having the MSD set-up.

3. Oil Pressure, Oil Temp and Volt Meter (optional). Buy the Equus and they work as good as the autometer. For less than $50 for a triple set, thats not a bad deal.

4. Rear Oil Pressure Modification. Instead of spending $50 for a modified ROPR from mazdatrix or racing beat, the stock ROPR can be modified to achieve a higher pressure. This is for those who are getting less than 60psi above 3K RPM.

I cant think of anything else to add. Be sure to drink your cold heine's after, not during like me.

 

Do you have the link to the Heine's please,lol.

 

Get rid of that power robbing Fan clutch. Go to the local pick a part or pick n pul, etc. Find a Fiero, taurus or others that have been mentioned before.

 

IF you have a below the radiator oil cooler, bring those darn stock hoses to a hydraulic shop and have them replace the lines. For both lines that are rated to at least 300 PSI, it should cost no more than $50. Thats crimiping the new lines to your stock hose ends.

 

Don't forget to get AN fittings to make those new hoses fit. Rarely will they have the correct
16mm ends.

 

No need for AN for just a hose replacement.

 

wacky you should write a tut or post links to all of these mods.

 

Good idea but Im running low on heine's. I will try that this weekend.

 

What do you use for fittings? Aren't the original ends of the hose swedged on?

 

Slap a 2nd gen coil in there for the leading ignition. The longest part of this upgrade is deciding where to mount the coil. A twenty dollar mod that improves idle, power, and mpg. Pretty much just swap the wires over and go.

I'm sure I'll think of more to add later, but two glasses of Merlot down and my bed and wife are calling to me.... Later.

BTW, this would have been an awesome thread if you had started it earlier in the day before we were all half in the bag... That way we'd be ambitious enough to include links on how to actually perform these wonderful mods.

 

figured i would post the coil set up.... the middle is for if the resistor is on the pos side and the right one is if its on the neg side.

 

Swedged? I know I've heard that term, but you know how old brain cells get. The ones I've redone are simply a matter of cutting off the old ferrel, taking the remainder to the hydraulic shop and having them crimp on a new line using the old fittings and new hose and ferrels.

Experience has been limited to S3/4 lines, works on all the fittings involved in those 2 versions of hoses, which includes the banjo style. Are the 79-83 fittings different?

 

I need everyone's help here. PM me your ideas and the link along with pix (if available). I work on one cold heine at a time so it takes time for me to remember stuff. Then we will make it a sticky instead of archive since majority of us are lazy to use the free and helpful SEARCHbutton.

thanks meng.

 

I'm surprised no-one sugested removing the rats nest yet.... thats the 1'st thing i did.
But we dont have smog testing on vehicles over 20yrs old here...so I removed my cats too.

 

Shoot, if you just bought the car (and you are a newb) just changing out ALL the fluids will help. Everyone does oil changes, but the tranny and rear end gets neglected 90% of the time. In doing so on my car, the LSD works properly now and the shifter is much nicer.

Another easy mod is to put in new plastic bushings on the shifter. It will clean up alot of the slop out of your shifter. You can get them from MazdaTrix for about 20-30 I think.

 

after removing the rats nest, don't forget the addition of the PCV valve to eliminate the moisture in the oil fill tube. IIRC, there was 2 different ways of doing it. i just tied into the vac supply to the brake booster.

 

[QUOTE=wackyracer]
2. DLIDFIS on stock coils. No need to spend appx $250 for 3 MSD blaster coils and MSD 6A or 6AL. You can thank Jeff20b for this idea and it works as good as having the MSD set-up.
[QUOTE]


wacky-- youre trying to tell me dlidfis with stock coils is better than MSD with blasters? i find that hard to believe. more economical yes. why waste your time with the stock coils though. buy a used 2nd gen leading coil and the swap takes less than 10 minutes. theres much debate on if the 2nd gen set up is just as good or better than the MSD. thats why im going with 2 6a and the 2nd gen coil. ill experiment with the 2nd gen coil and blaster 2(because ill have 5) and see which is better.

i just wanted to correct that just teh stock coils isnt better than an MSD box. its debatible if theyre better than MSd coils, but the box deinately has to make a difference or all the guys wouldnt be using them on the track

not trying to be a dick or anything. air mail me a heine, since itd be my first experience with one, make it free

 

or you can just do as wacky has stated before, just drill a hole in the filler tube cap and put an angled fitting in it. you can get an APC small filter and put it on there if you so choose. i did this last weekend as mine wasnt venting well enough. i dont know if it fixed my problem but its just another option.

 

get better tires . even with the factory 13's that can improve handling greatly . most people by the time they get a rex have the walmart special of the week on them ... along with bird poo and lots of rust lol .

 

Remove OMP/MOP and pre mix, running old used crankcase oil to lube the engine with fuel doesn't make sense, 2 stroke is designed for this job, cost $0. Hand made block off plate out of 1/8 aluminum and shorten bolts so they don't damage the front cover.

Rewire fuel pump as the original wires will cause problems where they go through the floor, referably use a relay.

Replace fuseible links with readily available plastic block fuses, they plug straight in.

Remove the beehive and install and FMOC asap.

Rebuild brake calipers at home, kits cost $3 or so, use a brake hone ($4 on eBay) to clean out bores.

 

Fix high beam by searching for Kentetsu's thread, removing and cleaning multi switch.

Improve headlamps by searching Kentetsu's thread on headlamp relays, I used Ford Crown Vic style relays, $0 at wrecking yard.

Change fuel filter, often

 

the idea behind the PCV . is to cause sort of a vacum effect on the crank case (because the sucking of the motor) ... beings we have rotaries it ... eh ... anyeways it causes vacum and that makes it easier for the oil to adhere to things and helps prevent foaming in the oil . witch as we all know that if there is air where oil should be it will cause premature wear . some people actually buy crank case vacums likely because the cam they have is so out of this world that it cant produce vacum and it has been proven that if there is a vacum source it does add power (depending on the application) . i would personally not recomend a crank case 'filter' . go with a pcv .
feel free to help me out here guys .

 

ive thought about this as well. i dont drive my car yet, so my set up isnt complete. i thought about running a hose from the fitting to a PCV and then to the manifold. i havent decided yet.

 

i was recalling my old cougar and every other car with a motor lol... the valve covers i have seen with vent tubes in the top of the oil fill cover or highest part of the motor had less crud in the motor then the cars with the tube lower ... the exception ofcourse is where the 4 bangers have the cams in the head and there is a bit more oil in the top end than in a ohv v8 .

 

True. Also on the remote shift transmissions (81-85?) pull the shifter out and clean it all out really well and put fresh oil in there. Will make shifting 1,000,000 times better. Most trans I get the oil has been long gone. I guess over time it seeps out or slowly evaporates and no one knows its seperated from the trans oil.