rebuild that nikki clean it very thougherly i mean every inch buy a gp soreson kit from autozone its the best on iv seen comes with aluminium washers cottor pins evan seats for the needles all gaskets...

if u have no rats nest remove all the non nessary stuff on the carb.
high altitude compensator
bi metal choke assembly & bracket
#2 choke diaphragm & bracket
choke butterfly
throttle opener
dash pot
secondary diaphragm
throttle sensor


and it should look like myn...
rember to block all holes created
i just rebuilt this nikki last weekend my second time rebuilding and im really pleased with the results put it together adjusted my floats and was 100% positive it would work i can get my idel as low as 600rpm..

 

I thought the title was,"Simple upgrades for Noob's?

Now it's into repairs and maintenance,lol.
Give a rotary enthusiast a inch and get a whole book in return

Well, I'll turn the maintenance tips into "Upgrades". Get rid of the stock trans fluid and put synthetic in to get rid of that cold morning "Notchy" shifting.

If the ignition wires are anything but NGK,Racing beat or other quality ones, dump them.
Spark plugs other then NGK or ND's, put them in the trash. Means no cheap single electrode Autolites
blwfly, Thats one sweet looking carb buddy

Maybe on my way back to Oregon, I'll stop in and drop off my spare Nikki.

 

thanks opps sorry i must missread the title
tho rebuilding a carb is rather simple with a manual and some ones good advice.. that means u scott haha


hay doc sure ill rebuild your carb if u rebuild my engine

 

Boy,I sure walked into that one.

 

New spark plugs, and wires for better spark. K&N air filter

 

you know i think you were meaning rejetting the nikki carb for better performance ... yeah that sounds right lol

 

for that stuff is for stearling to do

 

I disagree. If the clutch fan is working properly, it is only engaged at idle or low speeds.

Electric fans are only good if you want the ability to turn off the fan with a switch. IE drag racing.

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/efanmyth.htm

 

you still have the drag of the fan when you increase rpms sharply

 

well, for drag, I run the electric fan only when necesary since I dont run alternator/water pump belt.

 

i would recomend if you are going to stick with a motor driven fan to get a flexlite fan , they flatten out when the rpms go up , helps reduce drag .

 

Not really a mod, but I'd replace all coolant lines as a good precaution. Don't want to overheat the wankel...

 

Well, I have read the same article and do not agree. The fact is that the fan clutch and blade whether they are engaged or dis-engaged put drag on the motor. At speeds above 35 MPH most of your air cooling is done thru ram air thru the radiator. Which means that the stock fan clutch and blade even though they are not engaged still use power(Inertia) from the motor. The electric fan is off at these speeds therfore using no power from the motor.

the other advantage to an electric fan is longer life of the water pump bearings. When you have an extended shaft that is being pulled on by a larger rotational object it puts more stress on the bearings of that shaft. With that mass eliminated the stress or pressure on the bearings is greatly reduced.

 

can you post a diagram for replacing the lead coil on a gsl-se if different from 12a

 

kooneon i posted the pics a couple pages back....it should be the exact same. Also som1 said somthing about K&N filter, be sure its the drop in not a cone. It seems the stock air box does better than a cone.

 

In reference to that I presume you are refeering to a Se.
Recommend relocating the ATS to the inlet hose to the T/body.

 

so any tut on that oil pump mod to bump up the pressure?

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...highlight=ROPR

 

It regards to the Efan thing, when is the last time you saw a factory put a clutch fan on a car, its been a while. clutch fans are just old technology.

 

Stock clutch fans move a LOT of air, so if you drive in traffic they are hard to beat, in cooler climates or occasional drivers/race cars, electric fans make sense. As for power gains you are talking a very small gain, maybe 2 to 3 HP.

 

The proper electric fan is good for "ALL" climates whether it's 120 degrees outside and your stuck in traffic.
And there is "NO" gain in hp by using an electric fan. You are just freeing up the present Hp when it's not in use.

 

Having driven a car first with the stock fan, then with the E-fan, I can definitely say that you will feel a lot more "pepp" in 1st and 2nd gears. Since I autox, and most courses use only those gears, this rocks.

As far as cooling ability? I'm using the MR2 fans, with comes with two fans and that's how I originally ran it. But when I installed a 2nd gen radiator I ran into mounting issues. I needed the car on the road at that point, so I temporarily rigged up only one of the fans, planning on fixing it right later. Two years later I still haven't seen a need to install the 2nd fan. Temps are very manageable, and the fan never stays on for long.

 

[QUOTE=Kentetsu]Having driven a car first with the stock fan, then with the E-fan, I can definitely say that you will feel a lot more "pepp" in 1st and 2nd gears. Since I autox, and most courses use only those gears, this rocks.

The reason you are feeling more pep is because you have reduced the inertia of a rotating mass. The less drag on the motor the more the available Hp is used effectively. It's the same principal of having a lightened flywheel.

 

Exactly!

 

Paging a mod to page 4 to sticky this thread....Paging a mod to page 4 please