I've been battling carburetor issues for about two months now trying to get a SA running and I'm sick of it!!
I'm back to my stock nikki. I have mechanical secondaries. Anyway, when I turn on the ignition fuel pours in from the primaries, secondaries and overflows where circled in the picture below. If I wire the float solenoid to 12v the flow slows, but is still a steady stream. Primaries and secondaries are fully closed. What a mess! Do you guys know what's going on? I'm certain it's simple. How you like my picture??!!

 

what are the floats set at?

 

Yeah I'm thinkin floats are off, hung up on the side when you put the top part back in, or the needles are bad altogether. Anyone else have any ideas?

 

You're not using a high performance aftermarket fuel pump are you? If by chance you are, then you need a pressure regulator to go with it. I think these guys are on the right track though, so listen to them. One thought though, what about the restrictor in the return line? I remember that if it is absent, or installed backward, it will cause issues only I can't remember what that issue is....

 

You definitely need the float soloniod plugged in, no doubt with the stock carb. I would make sure the pressure is at 3.5 psi, and make sure the return is working correctly.

 

Unplug the float selenoid and plug it back in while you listen to hear if it's actually working. Mine was unplugged causing havoc of flooding problems.

 

The float solenoid is on the driver side center, right? I plugged and un-plugged it and the flow changes, but not much.
I'm pretty sure about the return as I just had the fuel tank sealed and I made sure the supply and return were clear, but I'll check again.
I'll check the float level tomorrow morning.

 

Yeah, my guess is that your needle/seats may be worn to the point that they don't seal anymore. Other than that, if the float bowl vent is plugged in and your float levels are set correctly, I'm not sure what else to suggest.

 

Okay, I pulled the guts out of the float solenoid and just left it unplugged. Now, no leaks. I started it up and am messing with the adjustments. I dropped the idle to around 1400 and it doesn't idle very smooth, but ti will idle. My idle speed screw, (large flathead screw dr side center) makes a difference on my idle speed, but the mixture screw, (smaller screw directly below speed screw) does not. I can screw it all the way in or out...no difference. When it's idleing, if I give it a good amount of throttle, (4k rpm) and let off, it tries to spit and sputter around 1k then dies. Starts right up every time with 2 pumps of the primaries. Ideas? Thank you for your ideas so far. I do appreciate the help and quick responses.

 

I'm getting ready to head into work, so I'll get back on this tomorrow, but here's where I'm at.
I thought if I could get the car to idle under 2k rpm that ruled out a vacuum leak. If I close the choke the idle smooths out and I can adjust it down to 1k rpm no problem. As soon as I let off the choke, it spits, sputters and dies. Still the idle mixture screw does nothing. While it was choked and running smotthly around 1k rpm, I used electronic parts cleaner to look around for vacuum leaks and didn't really find anything. What's going on here?

 

the idle mix screw isn't doing anything because you are either getting too much air somewhere (vaccum leak) OR fuel is still pouring out from another source. if you are using the choke and it's making things worse then i'm leaning towards a fuel issue still.

 

The choke makes everything better, not worse. When choked, it idles low and smooth. Could I have a vacuum leak and still get the idle down to 1400 rpm?

 

ohh ok, i gotcha now. so basically by forcing the secondaries to spill fuel it's getting better.... probably because it's compesating for the extra air coming in from a......................................vaccum leak lets hope. do the carb cleaner trick. spray all over while it's idling and see if the engine revs up some. bam theres your leak. ESPECIALLY under the intake manfiold where all the header heat is.