from this?


So this can go in?


Discuss.

 

No discussion needed, yes.

 

Yes, does the 4 rotor run?

 

Or, ah, does the 3 rotor run?

The change over would needs lots of other such as differernt manifolds, fuel system, exhaust system, changes to engine/trany mounts, driveshaft, etc.

There is also a theory that before you increse the power of a vehicle you should inprove the handling and braking!

Yes! go for it!

 

Giving Jeff advice on pre-mods, lol. He's forgotten more than most of us will ever know about rotaries.

I had to look at those intake ports for a bit till I realized that the secondaries are huge. That's a very odd looking configuration. Do we really need to discuss or simply encourage? Of course my vote is YES. I will assume you're going carby, or are you venturing into FI? That would be worthy of a discussion.

 

Answer: No.
Reason: Send engine to me.
Nuff said.

 

Jeff all your projects are a total waste of time. Why don't you try something original for once!!

You ABSOLUTELY need to put that 3 rotor in there.

 

Funny but very true!

 

:o

 

haha, i thought he was done building his 4 rotor

 

yes!

 

Absolutely NOT...

I have a shell more suited for that engine (and it happens to be mine!) ROFL

Scott

 

put it in!
then tell me how i could build one of those with my 2 12a motors sitting on the side.

 

No. 3 Rotors are the thing of the past. Put the 4 Rotor in it and ship me the 3 Rotor and be done LOL

 

hell yes.

maybe itb's....??

 

I'm with notveryhappyjack. ITB's. Definitely put it in though. You'd have to be out of your mind not to.

If you go carb, though, how big of a carb are you going to be using?

 

If he'll be going with carbed he'll do like what most do, use 3 webers, from the porting on there 50mm or maybe 55mm.

 

ohhhhh fuggggkkkk!!


nuff said

im scared of the 20B motors , but if i get one jeff is comming to L.A.!!!

 

Guys, the reason 20B ports are so huge is because you're looking at a curve cut at a really steep angle. Take any curved pipe and slice through it at like a 45° angle. You end up with an oval. Mazda did this to clear the stock (big, clunky) turbos. The runners really aren't all that big. I'd say they're adequate, and give good torque for a big luxury car.

How will they do in a 1st gen?

 

I'm sure they'll do an adequate job of turning the rest of your driveline into a pile of scrap metal.

(Not that I really think you'd let that happen....)

 

Do it! Torque in an FB is always a welcome thing...just cut the tunnel, bump the firewall and offset it to the back for a "front-mid-engine" configuration..

And Car Craft just did an article on the Ford 8.8 that should interest you.

 

I've already done the cut tunnel, move everything back thing once before. It's real headache. Everything is affected: bellhousing bolts are difficult to reach, oil filter needs relocation, slave cylinder is nigh impossible to reach, gas pedal is raped, shifter fights the e-brake handle (unless you can move it forward, which is another headache in itself). Of course the driveshaft must be shortened as well. What happens if the tranny/clutch/slave cylinder/drive shaft breaks? The headache gets worse. That is why I'm leaving it all in the stock location. With this much power, I'm sure to break something.

The actual weight difference front to back is not affected much. People say a 20B weighs like 75-80 pounds more than an S5 T2 engine. The stock battery is close to 40 pounds. What if I moved the battery to one of the storage bins? I'd lose 40 up front and gain 40 in the mid/rear. There would still be a net increase of 80 pounds, but 40 would be in the mid front and 40 would be in the mid rear. Tell me that's a bad idea.

 

I can't belive you even bothered to ask..DO IT!! I would kill for a 20B.....where do you live again?

 

I don't need a hitman right now.

 

I drained the coolant and pulled the radiator. Also pumped all the gas out of the tank.

Do you think a 12A air oil cooler will be enough for an NA 20B? My sources point to yes but I want differing opinions.