1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Should I pull the 12A...

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Old 09-14-07, 12:41 PM
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Should I pull the 12A...

from this?


So this can go in?


Discuss.
Old 09-14-07, 12:47 PM
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No discussion needed, yes.
Old 09-14-07, 12:48 PM
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Yes, does the 4 rotor run?
Old 09-14-07, 01:11 PM
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Or, ah, does the 3 rotor run?

The change over would needs lots of other such as differernt manifolds, fuel system, exhaust system, changes to engine/trany mounts, driveshaft, etc.

There is also a theory that before you increse the power of a vehicle you should inprove the handling and braking!

Yes! go for it!
Old 09-14-07, 02:19 PM
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Giving Jeff advice on pre-mods, lol. He's forgotten more than most of us will ever know about rotaries.

I had to look at those intake ports for a bit till I realized that the secondaries are huge. That's a very odd looking configuration. Do we really need to discuss or simply encourage? Of course my vote is YES. I will assume you're going carby, or are you venturing into FI? That would be worthy of a discussion.
Old 09-14-07, 02:57 PM
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Answer: No.
Reason: Send engine to me.
Nuff said.
Old 09-14-07, 03:01 PM
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Jeff all your projects are a total waste of time. Why don't you try something original for once!!

You ABSOLUTELY need to put that 3 rotor in there.
Old 09-14-07, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by trochoid
Giving Jeff advice on pre-mods, lol. He's forgotten more than most of us will ever know about rotaries.
Funny but very true!
Old 09-14-07, 04:04 PM
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:o
Old 09-14-07, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by verrethe
Or, ah, does the 3 rotor run?

The change over would needs lots of other such as differernt manifolds, fuel system, exhaust system, changes to engine/trany mounts, driveshaft, etc.

There is also a theory that before you increse the power of a vehicle you should inprove the handling and braking!

Yes! go for it!
haha, i thought he was done building his 4 rotor
Old 09-14-07, 06:46 PM
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yes!
Old 09-14-07, 06:55 PM
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Absolutely NOT...

I have a shell more suited for that engine (and it happens to be mine!) ROFL

Scott
Old 09-14-07, 07:09 PM
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put it in!
then tell me how i could build one of those with my 2 12a motors sitting on the side.
Old 09-14-07, 09:52 PM
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No. 3 Rotors are the thing of the past. Put the 4 Rotor in it and ship me the 3 Rotor and be done LOL
Old 09-14-07, 10:22 PM
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hell yes.

maybe itb's....??
Old 09-15-07, 12:26 AM
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I'm with notveryhappyjack. ITB's. Definitely put it in though. You'd have to be out of your mind not to.

If you go carb, though, how big of a carb are you going to be using?
Old 09-15-07, 01:37 AM
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If he'll be going with carbed he'll do like what most do, use 3 webers, from the porting on there 50mm or maybe 55mm.
Old 09-15-07, 02:26 AM
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ohhhhh fuggggkkkk!!


nuff said

im scared of the 20B motors , but if i get one jeff is comming to L.A.!!!
Old 09-15-07, 02:33 AM
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Guys, the reason 20B ports are so huge is because you're looking at a curve cut at a really steep angle. Take any curved pipe and slice through it at like a 45° angle. You end up with an oval. Mazda did this to clear the stock (big, clunky) turbos. The runners really aren't all that big. I'd say they're adequate, and give good torque for a big luxury car.

How will they do in a 1st gen?
Old 09-15-07, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
The runners really aren't all that big. I'd say they're adequate, and give good torque for a big luxury car.

How will they do in a 1st gen?
I'm sure they'll do an adequate job of turning the rest of your driveline into a pile of scrap metal.

(Not that I really think you'd let that happen....)
Old 09-15-07, 08:41 AM
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Do it! Torque in an FB is always a welcome thing...just cut the tunnel, bump the firewall and offset it to the back for a "front-mid-engine" configuration..

And Car Craft just did an article on the Ford 8.8 that should interest you.


Old 09-15-07, 11:40 AM
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I've already done the cut tunnel, move everything back thing once before. It's real headache. Everything is affected: bellhousing bolts are difficult to reach, oil filter needs relocation, slave cylinder is nigh impossible to reach, gas pedal is raped, shifter fights the e-brake handle (unless you can move it forward, which is another headache in itself). Of course the driveshaft must be shortened as well. What happens if the tranny/clutch/slave cylinder/drive shaft breaks? The headache gets worse. That is why I'm leaving it all in the stock location. With this much power, I'm sure to break something.

The actual weight difference front to back is not affected much. People say a 20B weighs like 75-80 pounds more than an S5 T2 engine. The stock battery is close to 40 pounds. What if I moved the battery to one of the storage bins? I'd lose 40 up front and gain 40 in the mid/rear. There would still be a net increase of 80 pounds, but 40 would be in the mid front and 40 would be in the mid rear. Tell me that's a bad idea.
Old 09-15-07, 04:00 PM
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I can't belive you even bothered to ask..DO IT!! I would kill for a 20B.....where do you live again?
Old 09-15-07, 05:34 PM
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I don't need a hitman right now.
Old 09-15-07, 10:11 PM
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I drained the coolant and pulled the radiator. Also pumped all the gas out of the tank.

Do you think a 12A air oil cooler will be enough for an NA 20B? My sources point to yes but I want differing opinions.


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