kc0stp

Alright my racecar took a pretty hard hit back in lat July, spent some time in the body shop then had all 4 shocks replaced, all tie rod ends, left control arm, right ball join and both front suspension bushings, took it to get aligned and found right side at -2.6camber and right at +0.6 with both sides maxed out at negative camber, alignment tech suggested that subframe needs shifted over. Body shop then remeasured it and found the body part was straight but couldnt confirm suspension parts/subframe, asked the guy that orginally prepped my car and has forgotten more then most will ever know and he agrees that the subframe needs shifted but that the mounting holes are slotted. Lossened a nut up and found that indeed the holes are slotted (roughly 1/8-1/4" long) and it was maxxed out to the right side. Unfortunatly after loosening all 4 nuts and trying every trick in my book I cant get the subframe to shift over any. Any ideas/tips/suggestions?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

since the body is verified straight, (upper and lower rails i assume?), and the control arm is new, this eliminates some variables.

you're basically narrowed down to the subframe, and or the struts. since the subframe is all the way over, i would swap the struts and see if the camber follows the struts.
if the camber stays the same, then you need a subframe, or remeasure body, if the camber follows the struts, then they are bent.
if the camber changes becomes even then strut AND the subframe isn't straight.

BTW the upper frame rails are very important, their position = your camber. on a straight car with the GC camber plates you should be -4 camber. its common to actually reset the upper frame rails to get more camber. back in the 90's when these cars were popular, people were getting -6 camber, with the potential for more by playing with the strut housings