1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

shift question

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Old Mar 13, 2002 | 05:10 PM
  #1  
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From: Portland, Or.
shift question

The shifter on my 85 GSLSE seems a little tight while in the process of actually shifting from 1st through 5th, almost like its slowly freezing up.

I only have the problem while the car is driving.

If I'm stationary with the engine on or off, I don't have this problem either.

I hope this doesn't sound ridiculous, but can I just spray WD40 into the shifting mechanism?

Thanks again ppl.

M.
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Old Mar 13, 2002 | 05:23 PM
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MIKE-P-28's Avatar
Driven a turbo FB lately?
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From: Fort Branch, Indiana
Drain and change the oil, only add sae 90w to the shifter

Maybe that will help... Personally I like tight, but what you refering to sounds like a problem with synchros
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Old Mar 13, 2002 | 05:30 PM
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MIKE-P-28's Avatar
Driven a turbo FB lately?
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From: Fort Branch, Indiana
Drain and change the oil, only add sae 90w to the shifter

Maybe that will help... Personally I like tight, but what you refering to sounds like a problem with synchros
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Old Mar 13, 2002 | 05:51 PM
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EliteHardcoreCannuckSquad
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From: Ontario, Canada
Try switching to a good synthetic gear oil like Redline, it'll probably help.
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Old Mar 13, 2002 | 06:34 PM
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85RX7GS's Avatar
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From: NJ
It's the tranny oil. Switch it to something that is more suitable for your climate. It may also need to be changed badly as some 1st Gen owners have never changed the oil.
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Old Mar 13, 2002 | 10:03 PM
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FuLLsMoKe's Avatar
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From: Huntsville, Alabama / Atlanta, Georgia
Speaking of changing the tranny oil... Is it relatively easy to do so?
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Old Mar 14, 2002 | 12:28 AM
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FJ
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From: Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Originally posted by FuLLsMoKe
Speaking of changing the tranny oil... Is it relatively easy to do so?
Quite easy. I don't jack it up, but it would make it easier if you are not used to doing it. Draining it is obvious. Without jacking it up you can't see the fill plug, but if you reach under while laying on the floor, you can feel it just behind the starter. Once you feel it, it's easy to remove. Keep the wrench away from the starter as you remove the plug, of course.
To fill, I use a plastic tube a few feet long, maybe 3/8" ID, with a small funnel taped in one end. I fish the other end down from the top, lay down, and put it in the fill hole. Back to the top, and start filling. Soon as it starts to leak out of the fill hole, put the end of the tube in the drain pan while the tube empties, replace the fill plug, and you're done. Piece of cake. There may be a better a way, but that's what I do.

-John.
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Old Mar 14, 2002 | 12:59 AM
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riffraff's Avatar
smog nazi destroyer
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From: california
it is even easier if you use some sort of pump (can pick it up for a buck or so at a parts store) since it is kinda hard to pour up
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Old Mar 14, 2002 | 01:01 AM
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Are you Nucking Futs?
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From: Abilene, TEXAS
I use the pump method but will try FJ's mehtod next time, as pumping all that 90w is work, and I am lazy.
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Old Mar 14, 2002 | 09:54 AM
  #10  
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8krpm is not enough
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From: Upstate NY
I've got a pump to lube the lower-end of outboard marine motors. It sits in the bottle of MTL and the other end fits right in the filler plug hole. I sit and pump it until the fluid level is right up to the hole.

I did the same for my diff, it stopped the chattering while turning (LSD).

--matt
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