So today it has been pouring rain so I had to fix my windshield wipers. Got those fixed. And I dont have ac so with it being like 85 still I had to turn the blower on for some kind of breeze.

But to state something else. Im running a RB holley 465 and for have had all kinds of problems with it but here lately ive gotten it into a routine and its ran a little better. I still cant figure out why he sounds bridge ported!! Idles after she warms up at about 1100 to 1200 and will not idle down. You give it any kind of throttle to hold at lets say 3k and it sounds like she has 2step or something I dont get it. Cracked side seal? But you give her like full throttle its smooth revs fine. She hasnt lost any power what so ever cuz I can still sit sideways in 3rd gear with a good launch. And she is a stock 12a just the carb intake and header made to fit from a 13b.

But as I was saying. With the headlights, ac blower, and windshield wipers going she idled smooth as can be. I didnt try to hold the rpms or anything but I just knew that she idled like a brand new car

Anyone know what might could be wrong or something to make her run like that? I wouldn't think it would be my ignition cuz I went through that and got it just right last time I had the motor out.

 

Anyone have any ideas of why this might be?

 

Are you running an aftermarket flywheel?

 

Nope. Just stock flywheel with xtd clutch

 

I would say that the idle mixture needs some attention. An over rich idle circuit will cause a stock port engine to develope the lumpy large-streetport/bridgeport idle as well as cause the sputtering misfire at lower revs when holding a constant throttle position or RPM without a load (ie free reving in neutral) The higher electrical load causes the alternator to work harder, and in turn puts a physical load on the engine which will dampen rougher idles. I noticed the same scenario when I first ran my current ported 13B, but I also have a light weight flywheel which exacerbates the rough idle (heavier flywheels help smooth the idle) When ever i turned on my electric fan, my idle would drop ~100RPM and smooth out a good amount

 

I think your car has an identity crises. It doesn't know if it's a boy or girl. jk

 

Well thats just the thing. The carb seems to be non adjustable. She!! :p runs the same no matter how you adjust it. My thinkin is its just a holley. They only work good full throttle

 

There are mixture screws on both sides of the carb, so you have to tune each rotors mixture independantly, and there are technically 2 throttle adjust screws. The primary throttle adjust screw is on the outside, while the secondary adjust screw is on the bottom, and requires carb removal to access. If the primary is opened too far, itll be running on the power jets. Also, make sure you float levels are not too high. If you pulle the sight plug screw out on the side of the float bowls, fuel should just barely come out. the level should be right at the bottom of the hole

 

Ive adjusted the floats so they're good. But I did not know there was a secondary adjustment. Ill definitely look at that tomorrow morning. And would you know about how to adjust each rotor like you say? Because im running an 1/8 inch open spacer because the secondaries would never open until red line. It runs the same or as a matter of fact worse with no spacer like that because it had no power and ran like s***

 

Did you get the street port Holley kit?Or have any jet changes been made? I suspect an intake manifold gasket is bad or your carb needs an adjustment.

Check your timing. If it is extremely advanced it can raise idle 4-500 RPM. How do you have your vacuum advance routed? I suspect it is on full advance at all times.

 

I got the stock port 465 holley from rb and ive checked them no vacuum leaks anywhere. And I have them T ed in and going to the advance port on the carb

 

I also have the timing where it is right on the dot

 

Timing is set to stock

 

I also adjusted the secondary idle and it idled it down now it just spits n sputters and runs like ***. The idle screws on each side do nothing whatsoever in how it runs either

 

You have something holding the throttle plates open, either misadjustment or the choke is hanging up or... something.

You may also have a vacuum leak. Runs poorly but runs better under load is a symptom of being too lean, but blubbering like a bridge port is a symptom of being too rich.

One thing at a time. First, make sure that the throttle plates can close far enough to cover the transfer slots. You will need to pull the carb off to see this.

 

Ive checked that also today and they are closing perfecr.the secondary butterflies were the ones not closing. But ive check for vac leaks and I haven't found any

 

If you cant get it to idle smoothly at minimum 1000 RPM contact Racing Beat and tell them somethings wrong. It could be a Holley or Racing Beat issue inside the carb.

 

I think its to long for me to try and get it replaced because I bought this carb like 3 years ago and it has its days when it run decent and then not good at all. I hardly drive her. Just my project and back up vehicle

 

My carb idles at 1200rpm but its set for bigger jets. If i lean it out and raise the idle it runs like ***, however thats the only way itll run 800rpm. If you honestly feel like its running better off of an electrical load, i would take some 1 on 1 with the car. grounds, light sockets some grease, get some electrical cleaner and clean some connectors. Take away some resistance.

 

Sounds like the metering well of the carb isnt doing its job. Your carb isnt falling into the idle circuit.


Rebuild the carb before you throw it out please... Even if the RB 465 is junk new, it will run better than that.

 

Im gonna try my luck at that. Be like the 4th time to take it off and clean and rebuild it lol but I mean maybe this time will do the trick.

 

Well im at work now but I watched a vid on youtube on how to properly adjust the idle mixture screws and it said that for each you have to achieve the highest manifold vacuum possible. Not getting at what that means but does that sound right or is it different for us?

 

Well ive found nothing and it still runs the same. Called rb and they told me to call holley so pretty much telling me im stuck with it > thinkin of switching to an edelbrock 500. Good or bad idea?

 

Classic RB.



You need a proper rebuild, all new gaskets, and a solvent dip soak. The fact that the idle speed increases or decreases without you adjusting the throttle plate indicates air is getting behind the butterflies from somewhere else.

GL figuring it out, I could have told you RB would be no help.

 

Would you know where it would be coming from?