Well, I have read quite a bit about setup, but most of my experience lies with FC's..I am trying to set this up for both street and track..

Here is what I have..

83LE
99k original miles
RB Header and Exhaust
Mikuni Side Draft
14" wheels
Stock Drums
New Clutch
New Slave Cyl

Here is what I have to install:
New front Rotors, Bearings, Seals
New Front Pads (hawk HP+)
LSD rear with new Discs
Disc Brake Rear proportioning Valve
New Rear Pads (undecided)
Energy Control arm bushings
Energy Sway bar Bushings, front and rear
Energy Pitman Bushings (I have heard not to use these)
Eibach Springs
New Tokiko Strut Cartriges, front
New Tokiko Shocks, rear
All new Steering components (Pitman, Idler, Tie Rod ends)
RB Strut tower Brace
Sumitomo HTR 200 (195-60-14)

This is a dual function car, both for street and for the occaisional time attack (perhaps 4 or so this upcoming year)..Hence my tire choice..I would be using Falken RT615's if it was only a play-toy...The motor is healthy...I am running Street Prepared or Street modified.. (Tire with a wear rating over 200, limited modifications)

If you guys could just point out anything that I am missing, or something that would make a big difference, please let me know...Just trying to learn from all the experience on here..

 

Sounds good, got any pics of your car and the parts you are getting ready to put on it? Sounds like it would definitely be fun as hell.

 

Time attacks?

They have the same classification as my local auto x.

You might want to either look into seats or harnesses to hold you in place.

 

Time Attack is similar to Auto X but it is on full size tracks with No cones...Here in Chicagoland we run at Autobahn Country club, Blackhawk Farms Raceway, Milwaukee Mile, and Road America...

One car at a time, one hot lap and one cool down lap...So I am not beating on my car too badly...

I would put the seat and harness in if I wasn't driving it nearly every day (a road trip to GA is in my plans)...The Seat that I had picked out doesn't fit Width-wise in my car (Corbeau, Fat-boy), which pissed me off a wee bit and encouraged me back to the gym after the holidays...I am 6'1" 250...so I need a wider seat...

Thanks again for your feedback..



This is a pic showing all my parts...My car is tucked away for the winter right now..

 

Sounds good. What other cars are you competing against? I would assume the old Corollas, MR2s, and 924s.

 

In regards to the pitman arm bushings, no idea, unless it's a grease boot for the joint. If it is, you don't need them, new idler and pitmans come sealed with a boot.

 

Trochoid,
What I meant to say was Watts Link Bushings...*It's Sunday, I am missing the Bears game because I am at work, So I am out of it*

 

The stock watts link has unequal length bars and it binds, so putting a new bushing in it makes it handle worse than a worn out bushing. The best thing to do is put in a properly designed watts link or panhard bar.

 

you need way better tires for a time attack car, summotumo's suck as a performance tire, no offence. all the other mods sound good tho

 

I would get a RB front sway bar rather than the strut brace. Much cheaper and much much more impact on overall handling...

 

Thanks for your feedback..Yea, I was thinking about the RB Sway bars as well...As for a good tire, I need something between a Falken RT615 and the Sumitomos..Any Suggestions?...What are availible in the 195-60-14 Size?...Do any other sizes fit well?

Thanks again for any responses..

 

I agree with everything that has been suggested, heres some thoughts....
I would convert to coilovers in the front and cut the rear fender and lower the rear using Eibach springs with the dead coils. I use 400# in the front and 200# in the rear. Time attack is all about tuning your suspension to make the best lap, move your battery out of the front to behind the passenger seat, look into a Rack&Pinion conversion to tighten your steering and lose some weight. You might want to ditch the rear sway bar if you lower it, You can disonnect it and test the difference. Also....biggest engine you you can afford!
Front air dam and custom sheet metal to clean up the air in the front, underneath and rear of the car. Air is your enemy.......slice it as clean as you can and get it to press the car down to stick to the track. Stiffen the car as much as you can. In my dreams I want to build a dedicated Time Attack FB. Good luck!

 

I have a pair of 14x7 wheels with NITTO NT01's that I used once(4passes) and decided they are not for drifting(used on the front). You would use these for front or rear, the hotter they get the stickier they get.
If you want them I can make you a pretty good deal
(the wheel in the picture is not the ones I have, this was the Nitto web pic of the tire I am talking about, NT01)

 

195/60/14 are the correct size to buy. When you go wider, ie. 225/215/205 you experience the benefits of more straight line traction but you gain a 'mushy/sloppy' feeling in the corners due to the added sidewall flex. If youre aiming at big power (over 200) then go with something wider, if you are keeping the engine relativly low mods stay with the 195's. thats my .02

 

this will depend on how serious you are, but definitly stiffer springs and shocks, we well as camber plates.

 

Has anyone had some good expeience with tires other than the Sumitomo's in that size?...I am doing a fair amount of street driving, so I need a good dual function ultra high performance tire...

 

dual function is all about compromises. i really would reccomend getting dedicated light and sticky wheel/tire combo. less unsprung weight and more grip all with 1 mod!!!

and bring a spare tire or 2 to the track.

from 95 - 99 i did track days in my daily driver 1st gen. sumitomo htrz 195/50/15 was the tire of choice on a 15x7. but i would go with a 205/45/15 on a 8 inch rim in hindsight. it needs more rubber than the 14 incher 60 series will give.

after a 20 minute session even the gf could look at the tires and see there's less tread on them than when i went out!@!@!!!@@