Seized Caliper?
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Seized Caliper?
I just put 4 new rotors, and all new pads all the way around on my GSL. Today I moved it around my driveway a few times, and I went around touching the rotors, 3 were luke warm, and the driver side front was hot to the touch, and it looked like the rotor had a glaze over it. SO the pads are rubbing, does this mean my caliper is seized. Im gonna pull the wheel and have a closer look tomorrow.
#2
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There are two pins that the caliper slides on. Those will usually corrode and keep the caliper from moving properly. You will probably be able to clean and lube the parts and be good...
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I just put 4 new rotors, and all new pads all the way around on my GSL. Today I moved it around my driveway a few times, and I went around touching the rotors, 3 were luke warm, and the driver side front was hot to the touch, and it looked like the rotor had a glaze over it. SO the pads are rubbing, does this mean my caliper is seized. Im gonna pull the wheel and have a closer look tomorrow.
When you installed new pads you had to retract the piston in the caliper in order to fit the new pads. Was there extreme resistance on the driverside?
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I cleaned and greased the pins while re assembling.
The piston was already pushed in all the way, so there was no need. I didn't get to look at it today, due to work. I think tomorrow Ill take the caliper off the rotor, and slowly add pressure, and see if the piston moves at all.
The piston was already pushed in all the way, so there was no need. I didn't get to look at it today, due to work. I think tomorrow Ill take the caliper off the rotor, and slowly add pressure, and see if the piston moves at all.
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If the piston was already all the way in and your pads were worn out then that is a good sign that the piston is seized.
As the pad wears the piston comes out further and further. It does not fully retract it's self at that point. Generally it will just barley disengage the pad from the rotor.
As the pad wears the piston comes out further and further. It does not fully retract it's self at that point. Generally it will just barley disengage the pad from the rotor.
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Well a little history behind the car, is the guy who I bought it of didn't do ANYTHING to the car at all as far as maintenance, or even cleaning it. He had no license, and the car wasn't registered, or safty inspected, and didn't have a plate on it and he was driving it around to and from work. And to top it off it had no brakes!
The lines were rotten, so the brakes hadn't had any use, for I dont know how long.
I fixed the rear calipers, by dismantling them, cleaning, and lubing them. I know the front passenger one is working. Im guessing this one is seized.
I might be able to fix it.
The lines were rotten, so the brakes hadn't had any use, for I dont know how long.
I fixed the rear calipers, by dismantling them, cleaning, and lubing them. I know the front passenger one is working. Im guessing this one is seized.
I might be able to fix it.
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Replacements are fairly cheap if you need one. Check out www.rockauto.com
Good luck with it. If the piston was already retracted when you replaced the pads, then that's a pretty clear indication that the caliper is siezed...
Good luck with it. If the piston was already retracted when you replaced the pads, then that's a pretty clear indication that the caliper is siezed...
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#8
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It was seized. I pulled the wheel, and took the caliper off the rotor, and just applied pressure to the brake pedal. At first the pedel felt nice and hard, than the pressure dropped as the piston broke free. Shes working now!