GavinJuice

People have had excellent results with Amsoil Powerfoam on here. I think people would be more inclined to use the seafoam since you can practically buy it anywhere.

Never the less Amsoil makes an engine flush which they recommend using when you change from a dino oil to their synthetic. https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/aef.aspx

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Seafoam's deep creep is used when you want the aerosol version. When you are wanting to spray it in the vacuum line or want to spray it in the spark plug holes for storage purposes.

-=DanK=-

Well, I had one bad experience with seafoam. I put it in a v8 with 403,000 miles on it and it did its job too well and cleaned out all the gunk that was holding it together. Now I cant run it cause it will throw a rod lol.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

similar to what i was referring to, sometimes on older engines it cleans away varnish that is actually helping keep things together.

a similar condition i would use as an example would be my '90 s-10 pickup. the valve seals went away a long time ago so putting in the recommended 10W-30 makes it smoke like a somnbitch, if i was to actually clean out the oil system it would be 10 times worse and probably not even drivable so i actually just don't change the oil and add in a quart every 1500 miles. old brittle rotary oil seals are similar in that they tend to crack and disappear, varnish can actually help them last a little longer before they crap out completely. it is just personal opinion that i do not put additives in the crankcase on any car unless i know it is in good shape and can handle the cleaning.

Kentetsu

Yes, I have had no good experiences with "oil system cleaners" in any piston engine. It removes all of the buildup on the piston rings and creates oil burning issues where there were none before.

But since rotary engines are completely different, cleaning all of the gunk out of the apex seals (and any other "floating" seals on the rotors) will only increase compression. But I still only recommend Seafoam in the gas tank...

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Let's try and kill this "drive it like you stole it" idea right here, this is very bad and potentially harmfull advice.

There is no need to abuse or over rev an engine for the Seafoam treatment to do it's job. Driving the car agressively, up to 6500 rpm is sufficient to get the job done. Pegging the tach is not neded and has the potential of causing major engine problems if a large chunk of carbon were to break off and become lodged in the wrong place at high rpms.

Keep in mind that some new owners may not be as astute on the workings or limits of a rotary as the more experienced owners are and will quite literally take your statement seriously, i.e., the living **** to them might be interpreted as redlining the engine to 10k rpm.

When they come back and say that Seafoam blew thier engine, what is your response going to be? "Uh sorry man, I was only kidding, didn't mean for you to peg the tach." that answer will be unacceptable for someone that is now looking at spending 2500 bucks for a rebuild on a car that they most likely spent less than 1k to purchase.

Use of common sense by both parties is needed, but we as experienced and supposedly more knowledge members need to show that common sense first.

The potential downside Karak is refering to on piston engines can happen in a rotary too. If the old, hardened oil contol o-rings are being sealed by a buildup of carbon, removing it may cause major smoking problems. There has been at least 1 member last year that had this result from a Seafoam treatment, but eveyone seemed to dismiss it as something else. Keep in mind how the sealing system works. The steel side seals retain the high pressure combustion gases in the housing and away from the rubber o-rings. The rubber oil control o-rings keeps the lower pressure oil from passing into the gap between the o-rings and steel side seals. The o-rings also rub against the e-shaft since the rotors and e-shaft turn at differential rates. A small amount of oil bypassing the o-rings helps lubricate this wear area, fills the void between the o-rings and side seals and lubes the face of the irons, the steel o-ring carriers that ride on the face of the irons, along with the side and corner seals themselves.

Anex 570

I think this thread should be closed, I'm already about to flame.

sgieldon

Why?
Good info for the NewBees and maybe not so New!
Thanks T.
sgieldon
steve

-=DanK=-

Why close a thread that could be useful to someone else. This thread turned into a seafoam discussion and every post has been on-topic. If you have issues with that dont reply.

Anex 570

Because theres a few guys that come in here and throw a wrench into the whole thing with no proof of their own. Thats why I said it should be closed before I go off about it. I've had nothing but good luck with this stuff in every engine, and have used MMO the same way too.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Well, if you have your flame thrower pointed at me, I have a very sturdy flame siut and have been known to defend and backup my statements quite well form time to time.

If you have a particular issue speak your mind, but be aware that you will need to back it up with knowledge and understaning, not just a flame.

84RX_Se7en

Buying '84 SE that has been sitting for nearly two years and will start but not stay running... should I stick to a tune-up(oil, filters, plugs, new gas) or should I do the tune-up and use a can of seafoam. I don't want to try my hand at doing the tune-up and the seafoam and having the seafoam eat away the seals. I'm thinking I should do the tune-up and drive the car for a hundred miles or so to make sure she's solid before I go the sea foam route? I don't know, if I do a tune-up and it still won't stay running I may try my luck with that before I go looking into mechanics.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Are you stating that the car runs and drives but does not idle?

84RX_Se7en

Yes, the motor fires up fine and you can get it going but will not idle. You must be giving it gas constantly.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

^ So we do not clutter up the seafoam thread. Please start a new one with your symptons and I will advise you from there.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

stating experiences, good or bad, is not a bad thing my friend. you will find that some products do good on one car but not another, it really depends on the condition of the car as to how it is going to react to it.

if you just want to see good comments about products you should invent a filter to eliminate the negative comments. i'm sure a lot of people would pay to ease their minds, unfortunately in the world there is not only good effects but negative effects as well.

seafoam does its job like many other products but the byproduct is not always as the label states...

Anex 570

Alright, heres a few cases for me. I've used this in both rotary vehicles I've owned mainly just for gas treatment. I have used it in the oil as well, and on all engines I've had. I've never had anything negative happen with them. I never had any sort of oil burning issue after this, I had issue before with my old 12a and the van.

I've noticed Improved oil pressure with the chevy recently with using a mix of seafoam and MMO in the oil, then ran it 100 miles and changed. I keep MMO on had because its a little thicker and I use it in everything. My -SE never had any issues and it gets ran pretty hard to redline when I do drive it, and at race events.

In my experience cleaning internally cant be done enough. One big thing I've used even either of them for is to make seals swell up to stop smoking, which It has done significantly on my chevy 305. I've had the owner of seafoam demonstrate the stuff and I was like yeah, alright its pretty good. Its not what I normally use like MMO, but it does a pretty good job at cleaning because it is pretty fine.

Also I fail to see what cleaning oil passages/bearings and seals of carbon is going to do if what trochoid said is true. A little bypasses anyway? Why would you want carbon build up blocking stuff from things being lubricated and if since the seafoam is so fine, it'll make the"hardened oil contol o-rings" soft and pliable again.

This stuff is just a cheap way out of using a good, cleaning synthetic like amsoil or royal purple anyway. All the cleaners put together don't do what those oils do, and the oil cant do its job with that carbon in the way.

I dont mean to bash either of you guys, it was just annoying.
Just so you know, the chevy had 120k when I started driving it, I've used either MMO or seafoam on it and theres 155k or so on it now. Smoking would only appear when my dad would use it and never change the oil. I did a tune up on it, ran fluids and its stopped.

-=DanK=-

After reading that I am lead to believe that you were aiming your flamethrower at me for my comment. Read my post carefully and you will notice that I stated my motor had 403,000 miles on it, I didnt mention that it has never been rebuilt. That is far beyond all expectations of any motor except desil engines. What trochoid said is exactly correct; basically if you clean out the carbon and crap plugging the holes in the seals that are missing their physical material, it will leave gaps. You cant reinflate a seal that is missing a chunk out of it. Im glad you never had this happen to your motors, but I will be willing to bet your motors havnt seen nearly the lifespan that mine has.
If you were not aiming your wrath at me, I apologize, but my point is still valid.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

yep, most of the rebuilds that i go through that are just getting older in years wind up having the outer oil seal cracked in several spots, softening the seals would likely eject them from the retainers completely turning light oil burning issues into large oil burning issues.

like i said though, no one has to listen to me but engine treatments do not always turn out positive and the risks should always be explained.