TheOdditie

iTrader: (1)

Many of you have been following my project thread, but trying to see if I can get some more minds to help out.

This is a summary of whats been done so far:

I got this car about a year ago from someone who has had it for about 3 years in the same condition. The inspection sticker on it is from back in 2001, so good possibility its been sitting for awhile. Straight body, only like 65k miles on it.

Any way, at first I wasn't working too hard on it, just fiddling here and there. Well now its coming time I need to park my current beater so I need to get this thing going. Currently if I'm lucky it will fire up for a few seconds after you disconnect the fuel relay and then starve, plug up the relay and it floods.

This is the list of stuff I have already done or tried:
1. Dropped tank and clean, replaced fuel strainer.
2. Replaced Fuel filter and Fuel pump with Walbro 255
3. Replaced all the rubber fuel lines.
4. Flowed and tossed the original injectors, replaced with used "good" injectors.
5. Replaced Fuel regulator with an adjustable regulator, currently set at 50psi due to flooding issue.
6. Replaced spark plugs.
7. Changed oil, twice so far.
8. Replaced AFM
9. Soak apex seals in ATF.
10. Prior to soak ran a compression test and at around 75 psi, a little low I know, but should be enough to get it going.
11. Attempt to pull start, which only worked with another person pulsing the fuel relay.
12. Listened to the injectors to check if they are getting pulsed, which they are, seems a bit slow though but don't have a baseline to go off of.

This weekend and next week I plan to remove the cat converter just to make sure a clogged exhaust isn't the cause. Don't think thats the case because when it does run the little it has, plenty of smoke coming out the back. After that, I'm taking the injectors back out and sending them out to get cleaned. I'm thinking possible ECM problem, which I hope to find someone local I can still their's for a few minutes to check.

I have not checked the ignition timing on it, because all I can find are instructions to set it while its running. Missing a key step in that. Anyone know how to check this?

I have also thought possibly the crank angle sensor, but currently do now know where that is located, nor how to test it. I can talk to some guys at work and see if anyone has a scope I can borrow.

It is getting spark, but as I don't know these engines that well, I don't know if its strong enough as I have read a lot of posts about the factory setup being a little on the weak side. I'm thinking I might go out to the pull a part and get the pieces needed to switch the ignition system out. I did also read that supposedly these engines take 2 different plugs: 1 for the leading and 1 for trailing. Any thoughts?

Any other suggestions on this?


And one last thing: Do the headlights only work with the engine running? I'm new to pop up headlights, tried to turn them on and couldn't get anything, but could turn the motor over until it popped them up and then back down so I know power is getting there, I just don't know if they are vacuum operated or I'm just not getting signal there.

RallyCV

Check the fusible links - if the main EGI link is blown, the car will run exactly as you describe.

ganue

Hmmm...I think you may have upped the pressure too high. According to the FSM, with:

1) No vacuum to the pressure regulator, fuel pressure should be 37 psi
2) With vacuum applied, it is 28 psi.

Might be flooding the engine, actually.....

TheOdditie

iTrader: (1)

What FSM are you looking at because the one I'm looking at says to check it with the engine off, key on, use the pump short circuit connector near the AFM, should be 49.8-~71.1lb/in2, which would put where I have it set at the minimum pressure.

I think I'm going to do the DLIDFIS upgrade and see if it has any luck.

ganue

Info is from the same manual you are probably using:



But you are looking at the "deadhead test" when you jam the pump output directly to a pressure gauge. The pressure at the injectors is regulated by the pressure regulator as you know but here are the readings AT the injectors/fuel rail:



As far as trying other things...I'd wait until you fix one thing at a time otherwise you wont know what you are chasing....IMHO....

Good luck!!

TheOdditie

iTrader: (1)

See that pressure doesn't do me much good as you need the engine running first, without it running you cannot perform that test. That is why I went off the other pressures.