I rigged up a LED test light to the check plug to check codes on the SE engine and I get a code for the atmospheric pressure sensor. What ailments could this cause? No start? I have run the car on starting fluid several times but if won't start on the injectors. I got them to fire though as it smokes and sputters when I try to start it. I assumed yhe dizzy was a tooth off, but could the APS cause a no start?

 

That sensor is located on the same bracket that holds the ECU, and is only used for altitude compensation. The signal from that sensor tells the ECU when the car is located at high altitude and that the fuel injection map should be altered slightly to lean out the mixture at high altitudes.

I would doubt it would create a no-start condition. There may be something else going on.

 

It must have been a stored code from before I got the engine or before I had it wired in because it went away. I checked the codes again and it comes up with the engine speed code meaning my unshielded wire from the trailing - must be the issue. it will start after sitting fir more than an hour, run for 30 seconds and die. Then when you try to restart it it will just sputter and blow smoke out tge exhaust and foul the plugs. So the unshielded wires are sending a bad rpm signal for the injectors.

 

The ECU on an -SE doesn't 'store' codes like OBDII does, the only time a code is read out is if the condition is present. There may be multiple sensor issues however, so refer back to the FSM regarding how it reads them out. If you're expecting blinks in a sequence and getting pauses instead, there may be other codes being read out.

Also, a wiring issue shouldn't be temperature related as to whether your car will start or not. It sounds more like a fuel pump/tank/filter issue if it won't run for more than 30s.

 

Turned out the BR wire from the circuit opening relay was wired to constant 12v. I rewired it to START on the ignition switch and problem solved. With constant 12v it just flooded the car out I guess.

 

Btw. The intake temp sensor has two broken wires. On my previous 2nd gens this would cause a rough idle. Could this cause rough idle and hot start problems on a SE if unplugged?

 

There are two intake temp sensors, one at the MAF and one at the upper intake RE-EGI chamber. Based on the differential between these two, the ECU decides whether to run the injectors rich. So, it's possible that your rough idle would be an overly rich mixture if the intake manifold sensor is disconnected - as the ECU would believe the engine is cold. It's just two wires - can you solder them up?

 

No they are fubar. I can track down another. Its definately running rich at idle. Its putting out a graish blue haze that burns your eyes when the wind shifts. Its not oil or water smoke though as the level doesn't change, but I've emptied my 2.5 gallon lawnmower jug twice idling in the garage. No fuel tank yet.