What about terminals E, G, I, P, Q, R? What are they reading? I know we can do this. The only part that goes between this and the front harness is just to that yellow connector (trailing (-) and power for injectors and ECU). Like I said, if we really get stuck, I'll find a way to get up there and we'll get her going.

That black plug is for the air temp sensor (the sensor is under the BAC valve on the drivers side of the RE-EGI chamber). The wire probably broke off of the sensor (Mine is currently like that. Runs fine without it)

 

E = AFM ( 0v i think )
G = throttle sensor ( 0v )
I = throttle sensor ( 0v )
P = atmospheric pressure ( 0v )
Q = AFM (good)
R = AFM (good)

i just thought of another thing that the harness isnt connected to, which is a 3 or 4 prong female connection coming off the alternator. is this needed?

edit: think my alternator is from a second gen since it has dual pulley belts on it... so maybe not

( V ) is the main relay im not getting power to, so maybe its not reconnected where the wires were spliced in the harness... hmm

 

I bet when you restore power to the V terminal, those others should probably read. Check that RW wire that you think maybe cut/spliced and see if it is getting power to the cut part. From your first pic, you alt looks to be a first gen alt. Either way, besides the output, the alts only have a two wire plug. Do you have a pic of this plug or at least the wire colors?

 

ahh yes, looks like the alt plug is just two prong. wires look to be black/white and white/black.

there's also a pic of the pics that were cut from the harness, i know usually on the harness theres a few wires coming out to that throttle thing, but theres a few extras. if you look at the bottom of that pic theres a couple other spliced/cut wires. i cant find the red/white one for the main relay in there, err there is no red/white at all...

i think i've pretty much given up on trying to get this beast to run for now. went and checked out that GSL-SE and looks like im buying it for sure now. the body of the SE has like zero rust and mine has a fair amount. we'll see once i have it if its worth it to use it as a parts car or to swap this engine and other goodies over.

 

I will take a look at my car in a bit and see if I can track down that wire for you. It looks like it connects from the main relay to (AFM, ECU, check connectors, and the variable resistor for the mixture). It's too bad that those wires were cut/spliced. Makes it a lot more difficult to get everything working.

Kent

 

thanks Kent

coming from the ECU there are two larger red/white wires. one seems to re-route to a plug under the dash (that isnt connected to anything in my car, nor does it look like there is anywhere it can go) and the other seems to go up into the engine harness... somewhere...

 

Now that I look at it more, I believe the V terminals gets it power from that big plug that isn't connected. You should have a similar plug on your car, but unfortunately they don't match. That plug is used to connect the front harness to the engine harness. What you could do to try to get it going is to run a power wire and plug it into the RW terminal of that big plug. That should be enough to get it running.

That plug being disconnected effects the following:
- fuel pump relay (your's is bypassed so doesn't matter)
- ASV (lets more air in the engine when AC is on (to keep from stalling
- ACV (emissions)
- heat hazzard warning
- clutch switch, neutral switch

That's about all I can see that it would influence, so you should be able to get it going without that connector. Just get power to that RW wire, and you should be set.

Kent

 

Maybe to make it easier, you can connect one of the BW wires from that big front harness plug (the 12A plug) to the RW wire in the SE engine harness. The BW wire in the 12A harness serves the same pupose as the RW wire does in the SE.

 

tried it from direct 12v and no luck

 

Do you mean that it just didn't start? Did you happen to check the ECU voltages again with that RW wire powered? You could also plug the 12V into the RW wire of one of those small open connectors near the ECU. All those RW wires connect together, so it doesn't matter where the power is connected.