ok, found those two black/yellow wires on the terminal. spliced battery power with a fuse into both sides of that and grounded the other two straight black wires...

but im still not getting any power to the ECU.. argh!

edit: doh, i just did that on the passenger side. got confused when you said the engine harness, since the harness on the other side is the front harness. is that what you mean?

 

well i think i was right, the only black/yellow wires on the drivers side go to the starter on the harness under the brake booster.

 

Yes, I think that is right. I said driver's side because that is where they would normally attach to the fusible links. The black wires that you grounded, where they the ones that go to the rat's nest (ring terminals)? You should have power now. Those wires should power the injectors and the ECU (terminal 'A'). You are checking power at the ECU at the BY wire on the bigger of the 2 ECU connectors? Is the wire that you added getting power to those BY wires? The power sould be a switched source. Stock it comes from the same supply as the + terminals of the coils.

 

the black and yellow i connected to were from a plug that wasnt hooked into anything on the pass. side. they are slightly larger than the rest of the wires and go into the main relay and ground on the ECU. however after doing this i was only getting voltage at the ECU from the air flow meter as far as i could tell.

i'll get some pics here and show you..

 

note the extra plugs on the ECU, are these for unused systems? a/c and such or is this what would normally go into the SE dash (front) harness?

and that yellow plug is what i mean for the main relay. but yet again nowheres to plug that in....

edit: as for the ring terminals on the rats nest, i have no clue where those are?

 

That yellow plug is key. That is where the front harness of the 13b ties into the engine harness. The BY wires are for ECU and injector power. There should also be a black? and YG wire. This goes to the trailing (-) terminal (the blue spade connector in the case of the 13b). The black one I'm not sure. The wire appears to be shielded. You will notice on the shielded lines (O2 sensor, tach signal) that they have two black wires running into their repective terminal on the ECU harness. So, run switched power (fused) to those BY wires and a wire for the (-) trailing coil to the YG wire. I will try to check on mine tomorrow to see if I can see how the shielded portion is setup.

The extra connectors are for ECU/O2 sensor checking. I'm not sure about the big white one off hand. Is that part of the dash harness or is it attached to the engine harness?

EDIT: The ring terminals on the rat nest, I mentioned becuase you said you grounded two black wires. I am sure that the are already attached. They attach to one of the bolts that hold the solenoid rack in place. Others have found, the ECU won't work without these connected.

 

far as i can tell both the BY wires go directly from that plug into the ECU for main relay and ground. however when i grounded one of them i blew a fuse. i then grounded one of the other (all black) wires from that yellow connector and the 12v to the ECU was fine. the connector itself has the two BY wires and two all black. where is this YG you are talking about?

atleast i am getting 12v at the ECU now, but it just started raining so im giving up for now...

thanks again man, you've been a big help! i'll see if i can try to get more of this together by tommorow

 

Both of those BY wires in that yellow connector get 12v (normally one would come from the Inj fusible link and the other from the ECU fusible link). I'm not sure which is which off hand. You will want to run fused 12v switched to both of these. Maybe put them on separate fuses like is done from the factory. I wasn't sure on the YG vs. B on the other wires. The diagram looks like one YG and the other for the shield, but I know both of those wires go to the same ECU pin (at least I'm pretty sure) on the engine harness side. I know the wire that normally goes to the trailing (-) is YG. You could probably just run a wire from both of those black wires to the trailing (-) terminal. The only problem may be noise (especially from the spark plug wires)

I'm not sure how their shielded wires are setup. I will see if I can check on my car tomorrow. You may be able to use some shielded microphone wire and I will see if I can figure out the shield situation. Glad that you have power to the ECU now.

Kent

 

I checked on that connector on my car. Coming into that connector, there are 2 heavy (10 or 12 ga.) BY wires that go to the BY wires exiting the other side of the connector (ecu and injector power). These come from the 2 additional fusible links that the SE has.

For the other 2 wires, there is a YG wire that goes on the bottom and a black wire that goes to the top. It appears that both of these wires connect to the blue spade connector that goes to the (-) terminal of the trailing coil. The black wire appears to be shielded, but I didn't see the shield connected to anything. Someone at some point cut the YG wire on my blue spade connector (so only the black is connected). You can still see that cut YG wire sticking out.

It appears that all 4 of these wire run from the driver side, across the front of the engine bay, over to the passenger side, and back to that yellow connector.

 

whenever i try to crank the car over with the 12v sources plugged into that yellow plug i get a click, and everything goes dead until i remove the negative terminal on the battery, then plug it back in?

 

So you have it so that 12V is connected to both BY wires and trailing (-) is connected to the two black wires? That click almost sound like you have a loose/bad battery connection or ground. Maybe something is shorting. Did you try to check all of the voltages at the ECU to see if they are where they are suppose to be?

 

i just looked on the junked GSL-SE at the wreckers and the wire for the trailing pickup is yellow/blue so i understand how that goes to the yellow plug. but i dont see where that black wire comes into play, since theres only one source for it to come from... i do have a lose wire coming from under the intake manifold around the injectors that the previous owner said he thought was for the o2 sensor.

anyways i did get the car to fire up momentarily with starter fluid but it soon shut off....

gonna try mixing and matching some wires here in a sec.

 

Yes, it is pretty wierd how it is setup. Just run a wire from the (-) trailing to one or both of those black wires. That should get you going. As I mentioned, someone cut my YG wire near the trailing (-) so my car is only using one wire (the black one) and it seems to be just fine.

Good luck.

Kent

 

DP: Proxy error

 

k, well i have injector power now, but nothing from the main relay and still not getting proper voltage to a few other pinouts on the ECU harness, i believe its because of the main relay...

where is the damn thing? haha or what does it look like? i searched and heard it was up near the drivers side headlight, not sure which is which tho. i think im going to try to run a straight 12v to the ECU harness for the main relay right now just to see if this is indeed my prob.

 

Do you have power to the coils? They get power from the main relay. That will tell you if there is something with the relay or if it is something else.

Which voltages aren't right? Some will be off since the values are base on a warm engine. If you could make a list of what the voltages are, I may be able to help you figure out what the problem may be.

And that wire under the intake manifold is probably the o2 sensor wire. Does it have a green clip on the end?

 

0V across the entire ECU except for the injectors, AFM and ignition. im definetaly missing some connections here.

i think im going to go buy that junked Rx and grab the harness and some other stuff since they wanted damn near $500 for just the harness and tank.... argh

 

So, is there no power to terminal 'A' (labeled main relay)? That should get power from one of those BY wires in that yellow connector.

Edit: Also check grounds (B, D, S, T). Check these with power off and your meter set to ohms. Measure the resistance between these terminals and the frame of the car.

 

It looks as those grounds are provided through those 2 black wires with the ring teminals bolted to the rat nest that I mentioned earlier. So, if you find these grounds are not connected, you will know where to look.

 

i still dont see any grounds around the rats nest. unless they are under the intake plenum...

i think i may have found something that could be causing it not to start tho. the wires that were cut and the previous owner said he thought were for a alarm system or something are for "ignition start terminal (M)", "air flow meter (O)" and "water thermo sensor (C)" these wires arent connected to anything and have been cut right before the alternator. far as i can its going to be a mega pain to get to the other side of the wires to reattach them in the harness.

do you think this would be enough to stop the car from starting?

 

#7 in the diagram is the grounds that I am refering to. There should be two black wires bolted to the solenoid rack (may be hard to see with the solenoids in place). You can check the ground as I said earlier with your meter set to resistance, key off on the car, measure the resistance between terminals (B,D,S,T) and the chassis.



Now for those wires. The ignition start terminal (M) tells the ecu that the engine is cranking. It engages the fuel pump relay (you have bypassed so that part doesn't matter), but the pulse width of the injectors should be within a fixed range to start correctly (not too lean, not too rich), so I'm not sure if it would start without this wire (definitely not if the fuel pump relay wasn't bypassed).

For the water thermo sensor (C), is it the GL wire that is cut? It is a two-wire device (GL, GR). This will need to be fixed to run correctly (may start without it, though).

Are you sure about the air flow meter (O)? It is probably the V terminal (same wire color). I say this because the AFM wire all go directly to the AFM connector (I didn't see any cut/missing).

Do you have pics of the cut wires and coolant temp sensor (back of the water pump)?

Do you have the (-) trailing connected now? Check those grounds and maybe make a list of the voltage that you are getting (to see if anything else is off).

I wish that you lived closer so that I could easily come by and give you a hand. But if you really need some help, maybe we could work something out. I would be glad to help. It is about 400 mi from here to B.C.

Kent

 

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after closer inspection those cut wires werent actually cut but just spliced into, so those shouldnt be a problem.

i grounded (B,D,S) there is no (T) on the ECU pinout diagram, which made no difference. i still am not getting power to the main relay (V) but i am to the other main relay connection (A)

if you look at the control unit outputs for the existing 12a front harness it looks like theres a few connections i can just splice straight from that into the ECU instead of running wires everywhere under the hood. ignition coil (-) for instance, most of the rest of the connections are for the second smaller plug on the ECU (Switching solenoids and such)

kind of a stupid question, but on the ignitor coils going to the distributor, which one is trailing/leading? i was under the impression that the first coil (closest to the headlight) is trailing since it had the blue connector for the ECU pickup.. but in the haynes manual the trailing is lead to the distributor by the coil closer to the firewall? either way i tried hooking up the ignitor wire to both and no luck..

 

There is a 'T' terminal. It is just a typo on the pin out diagram 'X' = 'T'.

For now, I'd just run a wire from the trailing (-) to one of the black wires in that yellow connector. I don't know how important the V terminals is, but we should get some power to it. Do the injector terminals have power now? How about the AFM and coolant sensor terminals (are they reading okay)?

The coil closest to the front of the car is the trailing.

Edit: Did you find the grounds near the rat nest?

 

yup its grounded at the rats nest. only thing out of place there is the the solenoid for the rats nest closest to the firewall (black connector) is cut. im guessing this might be something done when the air pump was removed?

the AFM is getting power, i can even hear it flapping the door around when im cranking the engine. not sure about coolant, seems like the only readings im getting on the ECU itself are either 12v or 0v, nothing in between

im really not sure this can be done without the front harness swap.. there has got to be some wiring we've missed here.