rx7haze

I've been trying to follow the following thread for the rats nest removal on my '80 with manual transmission. I want to keep vacuum advance but am disconnecting a/c.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/fuel-intake-rats-nest-removal-79-rx-7-pictoral-457961/
I'm a little confused and have a couple of questions.

1. In the pic there are 5 nipples circled in yellow. Based on the above thread I am supposed to connect the leading and trailing advance to 2 of these 5 nipples. It looks like the 2 left most. Does it matter which of the 2 are leading and trailing? It looks like the rest just get capped?

2. The 2 hoses circled in red. The left one connects to the pcv valve. Where does the other one go?

Sorry if this is an obvious question, but for some reason this procedure makes me extremely nervous.
Thanks, Bill

rx7haze

Along with the rats nest I did a carb rebuild. So I got everything hooked back up. I'm assuming correctly since it will idle at 750 rpm and hold steady.
Problem is it still idles rich. I originally set the float levels to the factory spec of .63" +-.02. The only reason I messed with them is because they were not within spec when I measured with the dial caliper and I was running rich before the carb rebuild. On my first try I set them to .65". But the levels according to the sights were high. So I went up to .68-.70. Still at the upper end of the mid mark on the sights. I'm guessing I should be right at the center of the mid mark. But why am I adjusting out of spec?
Also, I left 3 solenoids on the carb. The air vent, which I removed the plunger and spring from so I'm assuming this isn't a problem. I will eventually make a blockoff plate. Then 2 on the right side of the carb which I left the electrical connectors disconnected. Is this OK?
Lastly, I just found out my oil metering pump is not pumping. This will be my priority, but once I fix this I need to get back to the idle.
Thanks, Bill

rx7haze

I did some more searching on the MOP. Typically people report a leak on these. On the mazdaspeed site they note that they've never seen one fail, just leak. But in my case there is no leak, it is bone dry. The lines themselves are translucent, like they haven't had oil go through them in a really long time. Now I'm concerned. Where do I start?
Thanks, Bill

kgray

The right red line goes back into the carb above . Use the far left yellow circled nipple for the vacuum advance with a T fitting by the dizzy and plug the rest. As for the MOP question, make sure your MOP rod is connected correctly to the side of the carb, then report back. If it is faulty, you can go ahead and premix.

rx7haze

The rod is connected to the carb on the side. I worked the rod by hand and still no signs of oil even fully extended. Looks like I'll give premix a try. It just kills me to think about the damage I've done to the engine. For all I know it could have stopped working long before I owned the car. I prob put 2k miles on it like this.

'84-12A-GSL

So which lines does the oil flow through into the carb, the clear plastic ones? Should I be able to see oil running through them, while the engine is running?

rx7haze

I'm not sure you would see oil running through them. I would imagine that you should see evidence that there is oil in them. Mine aren't clear, they are a translucent yellowish plastic color. I'm guessing that if there was oil in there it would be a much darker color. Probably a brownish or blackish color. When a hose is translucent you can generally tell if something is inside it. I can't say for sure because mine have always been this color and obviuosly I've never had oil running through them.

Mazdahead

I did the rats nest removal and connected the vacuum advance to the same carburator lines using longer hoses to reach the carburator instead of going thru the original steel lines and it works fine.
The Oil pump problem is another issue. I had an 83 RX7 that had exactly the same problem and I did damage the engine after some really hard driving. If you haven't beaten it too bad and gotten the engine really hot you will probably be ok.
I would test the metering pump by starting and running the car and manually actuate the lever from the carb to force the metering pump to deliver oil. You should see oil making its way up into the lines, but it takes a little time to see it actually fill the lines. I would add a little pre-mix into the gas until this is resolved, a little extra isn't going to hurt once it is fixed. If you don't see any oil making its way up the lines, time to check the pump out. I am not a big fan of pre-mixing because I am lazy and figured the oil metering pump does a pretty good job on street cars. There are plenty of links here on checking the pump out and how to do it.

Good Luck

kgray

For a 100% test, disconnect the MOP lines from the carb and start the car up and rev the engine a bit. There should be oil coming out of the lines.