1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

rx7.com unflooding procedure

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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 12:28 PM
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From: ohio
Question rx7.com unflooding procedure

84 gsl-se
under 90,000mi
New Battery

I've been trying to get the 7 running for the past couple days with no luck. It seems like its flooded, turning over very strongly just not starting. I got on rx7.com and read over the unflooding procedures figuring I'll start the process where I dont have to purchase anything, but i have a quick question. What are they talking about here:

"Locate ignition coils by battery under hood. Slide blue blade connector from trailing ignition coil as shown above. Leave connector unplugged and get back into vehicle."

What is the blue blade connector. It says "as shown above" but Im not exactly sure what and where they are talking about.

Prob a stupid question but I dont want to screw anything else up...uhhh...Im new?

Thanks
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 02:10 PM
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if you read the FAQS sheet on this site its all on there, easiest step, take out all the spark plugs, unplug the fuel pump fuse, place news paper or something infront the area of the spark plugs, turn the engine for about 10 second a couple of times, dry the spark plugs, put everything back in and its unflooded now.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 03:04 PM
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Hey it is ok if you are new, everyone is at one time or another. I have always preferred my method if the one you listed above does not work.

Pull the car behind a large truck(drivers in both) The at around 5-10mph let the clutch out and de-flood it that way. Even when I could not get it running through "your" way this would work.

The blue blade connector is just a little electrical connection that is on the coil.

Good luck.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 03:11 PM
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Yeah, the flat slide on connector not the one secured by a nut.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 03:18 PM
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From: PENNSYLVANIA
Originally Posted by z-beater
Hey it is ok if you are new, everyone is at one time or another. I have always preferred my method if the one you listed above does not work.

Pull the car behind a large truck(drivers in both) The at around 5-10mph let the clutch out and de-flood it that way. Even when I could not get it running through "your" way this would work.

The blue blade connector is just a little electrical connection that is on the coil.

Good luck.
this was exactly what i did every spring when it sat for the winter - worked like a charm every time (now its in a garage - where they belong)
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 04:02 PM
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when you do it that way make sure that you have a strong battery bc soemtimes it does take a few times to get it going the blue spade will be on the trailing nearest to the front of the car. i was doing it on my 84 SE on a reagular basis you might want to check and see how your plugs look and if your looking into not spending any money, if they look like there is carbon build up on it use a wire brush and clean em up alil bit.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 04:36 PM
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From: CNJ
Get some Gumount Carb+FI cleaner. It comes in a white aerosole can with black and red letters and a black cap. Spary some into the throttle body/carb (not way too much but at least a 3 sec spray).

Works like a charm. No mechanics nessicary. I have a can in my bin just in case, along with 4 plugs and a lighter to dry the old plugs with.
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 01:10 AM
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The last few times that I've had to deflood (during winter storage) all I did was dump a couple ounces of motor oil down the primary (smaller) carb barrels. Hold the pedal to the floor while cranking until it starts to "catch". Then release the throttle and start her up...
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 01:19 AM
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gahhh reading all these engine start-up posts makes me want to fire up mine! its been sitting for more than a week now!! i need to clean a little more off the exh. manifold of oil and grease and stick it back on my car. i decided cleaning all the grease and oil is not worth it and i will let the oil burn off and crystalize so it will not smoke anymore because of my oil leak from the omp which i recently rebuilt. i want to hear my car roar, be legit and take it out for some twisties!!
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 11:35 AM
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From: ohio
Thanks for the feedback, one last question before this thread gets dies, What is the best way to get the MMO or ATF into the lower plug holes? I tried just like a funnel but most of the MMO just spilled out onto the ground. And now since the holes are saturated with the liquid, when I put the plugs back in they get the MMO on them as well, common sense. Do I need something like a baster, to push the liquid into the engine, or will it just pour in.

Thanks,
Im learnig...I think
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 11:46 AM
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Here we go again.

1.If carb, pour a cap full of regular oil thru the carb (one cap full per housing). For F/I, remove the trailing or leading spark plug and use squirter to get oil into the housing. I never use that ATF **** in any of my engines

2.Handcrank the motor thru the main pulley (or whatever is easier for you) and let it sit for about 10 minutes.

3.Install an old but clean and dry spark plug (this is where junkyard spark plugs come in handy).

4.Start the car and let it idle until the thick cloud of smoke disappears.

5.Install clean and dry spark plug.

PS: Most of time, I don’t need to pull any fuses to isolate the fuel pump.
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 12:10 PM
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Is the oil for building compression? I have an SE also, it has sat for a while too and wont start. My battery is dead though so I need to return it it is a redtop.
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 12:26 PM
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on a gsl-se to deflood:

1. remove spark plugs
2. remove the fuel-inject fusible link from the block on the drivers side shock tower under the hood. It is the green one.
3. standing on the drivers side looking under the hood, pull the crank pulley backwards slowly.
The apex seals will drag the gas up to the spark plug holes, and if it's really flooded, gas will poor out.
4. Crank the engine over for a few seconds until the gas vapor stops coming out of the holes. If you didn't remove the fusible link, it won't stop coming out. It should only take a few seconds of cranking.
5. Put the spark plugs back on, connect the wires, replace the green fusible link.
6. Start the engine normally. It should fire up instantly. IF you have to crank it over for more than 10 seconds, I can guarantee you it is flooded again.
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 12:38 PM
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From: Socal
Originally Posted by brandon davis
Is the oil for building compression?

yup. Be sure to have a strong battery when you start it. otherwise, IT WILL FLOOD AGAIN.
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