I don't know how many of you have stripped the storage bins out of your FB's lately, but i would suggest it. I just finished gutting my project car and found to massive rust spots that were damn near through wall holes in my rear fender wells.

Just thought i would get it out there that you might want to check it out if you are doing any kind of body work to your car.


~Sup

 

That does seem to be a problematic area on our cars. I do not believe that there are replacement panels that are made to be cut and welded in. I believe that they have to be fixed professionally, or at least have a piece of metal fabbed in and then you can weld it in.

 

Yup it's definately a major problem. All 3 rx's I've personally owned had the same problem. Upon importing to NA they welded in an extra brace on the inside of the wheel well (outside the vehicle) toward the front of the car. It doesn't have proper drainage so it's rusting from the first time it's driven in salt.

What I did was just grind away any loose rust flakes to get more-or-less bare metal. Then I applied a rust converter, and then fiber glass (both mats and strands) with plenty of resin. That will protect the inside, and on the outside the fiberglass can be used as a backing for a good coat of tar. That was 6 years ago and there's still not a hint of rust on either side. (though I know it's deep in those layers, eating away)

Another problem spot for rust is around the front windshield (probably from scratches left by window replacement), and even worse is the bottom of the rear quater-panels. The rust there can actually be coming from inside the car (it's sort of open to the cabin) and so if you don't attack it from behind you'll lose that battle badly.

 

If you do it yourself paint strip and sand the floor pan to bare metal. Then use this stuff.

http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=305

 

Rust NEVER Sleeps

 

Never sleeps but you can beat it into submission for a few years at least. Here's a variation of Felgar's home repair, which I did more than a year ago - it's still holding up fine 30,000 miles later:

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/479957/8
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/479957/9

 

yea they all rust out back there. If you look at the outside of the wheel well you will see a second smaller layer of metal, no doubt to strenghten it, spot welded on the well. Its not sealed at all, if you drill out the spot welds, remove that piece and look behind there you won't like what you see. Even all you guys who can't see rust on the inside or outside of you wells probably have rust inbetween those two sheets. What I did was cut basically the whole well out and fab my own from some 16ga sheet metal. then welded them in. Seems strong enough, and no where for moisture to be trapped.

 

Yeah, thats pretty much my idea for now. I'm trying to fix all of these little problem areas, then the plan is to take it in completely stripped (this winter while in the process of a motor swap) and have the whole undercarriage and interior Lile-X'd (Line-X for those that don't know is the same thing as Rino Liner and Reflux Liner) I figure a thin layer (1/8" thick) all over the body won't add too much weight. And this is going to be inside the body tub and inside the engine compartment, so pretty much every inch of metal that will be exposed to the metal except the exterior of the body which will be getting either a home made Moly Coat paint job or the classic silver.

~Sup

 

Definately look inside your rear quater-panels Supper. If you have your tank out with proper lighting and mirror you can see your drivers side pretty well.