lovintha7

Hey ya'll, I'm turing my 81 into a road race car, weekend warrior kinda thing. Could some of you who do this kinda thing tell me what kind of suspension you run. I'm going for adjustable coil overs on the front, and I've already got the Tokico rear adjustables. Besides rims, tires, and sway bars, is there anything else it needs? And what spring rates should I choose for the coil overs. I was thinkin between 375 and 450. What are your thoughts?

BTW- Street Port 12A, RB street port exhaust. Need intake and carb, but damn dentist hit me up for $721

Anyone got dirt cheap holley setup? I can make payments.

Rx7carl

Like a car for track days? First thing is buy Jim Susko's book and dont bitch about the $75. Best money youll ever spend on a 1st gen suspension. www.gforceengineering.net . And go to my website and read the rear suspension article if your going on the cheap. But buy the book regardless. It'll save you $ in the long run.

Dont get a Holley for track days/road racing. You'll regret it. Either a 2bbl weber style carb or a modded Nikki and manifold.

jimmdog

Yea What He said!

lovintha7

I haven't much experience modding a Nikki. About how much does it cost, and who do I send them to? Do they port the intake to flow more? And is the carb made to flow more air, and new jets?

'85 GSL 302

I run a 350# spring on mine, and trust me, you don't want anything stiffer than that for the street. 350# is nearly undrivable for a street car. I did it for almost a year, and it gets old fast.

Rotortuner

If you want to get fairly serious, i would look into g force engineering. I think the guy that wrote the book works there, but they sell the rear 3 link kit and conversion over to panhard rod, and this costs like 550 bux or so, there is a guy here that has that and he autocrosses it often, lets just say that the guy with his turbo miata with slicks and everything which has been nationaly competetive, the guy with his fb, 3 link, panhar rod, coil overs, front sway bar, no rear bar, etc. ya the fb ties him its ausome, ground control coilover kits are easy to make and work good.

CJG

Rx7carl

lovintha7- contact Sterling or me via PM or email.

Yea, I had stiffer springs than that on the car. That week it left the streets for good to be a trailer queen. Wayyyy too stiff.

Rotortuner

oh ya, i forgot to mention, the wheels and tires are 80% of it. i would get some 13by 8's or something and run 225 - 235 wide hoosiers.

CJG

RacerX7fb

Im a run-what-I-brung kinda guy....Ive used my street driven SE with Eibach Pro-kit springs, Tokico Illuminas, RB front anti-sway bar with Bridestone Potenza RE730s on 15x6.5" Panasports for track days. Only power mods are cat replacement pipe and open stock airbox. Suspension settings are not as radical as for AutoX.. the transitions between turns are not as sudden.



Heres RacerX7 and my friend Revn247 passing a 3rd gen onto the straightaway at Buttonwillow
(I had a blown rear shock but it didnt stop my fun)

GT3_racer

I use the g force front housings with koni adj shocks up front and the adco double adjustables in the rear, coil overs, 400 fr 350 re, rims, had them made at falcon rims for 55 each, 15x7 with proper offset to clear tower with hosier 23x9x15 slicks. three point attachment of rear end w/ panhard, modified the gforce plan from the book. also the mazda motorsports adjustable caster and camber plates are worth every cent.
Both ends are adjustable, so ride hieght is too, hard part is connvincing everyone that stock calipers and rotors that are well vented and cool don't give me any problem, yes they get hot from the added traction from the slicks but I alsways keep good preasure and travel.

lovintha7

You have a picture of the rims?

GT3_racer

Watch any NBS race, most of the teams use them, they are not fancy alloy's but steel, very utlitarian but strong and cheap

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

That's a sweet photo RacerX7. I remember that weekend. FUN to have the club at the track. Really need to do it again.

Rotortuner

hey DriveFast7
do you have all the g force stuff in your car?

CJG

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

No but I do highly reccomend Jim Susko's products. Seen them and they have great track record.

I use Ground Control spring perches up front. 350ft/lbs. Tokico Illumina race struts. Custom built tri-link in rear, 150ft/lb suspension spring specialist and rear threaded spring perches from ISCRacing.net, Tokico Illumina. Ground Control panhard rod.

Pick and chose what I needed.

norotorbob

i run apc springs on stock struts. when i take it to the track i usually win. the only time i got beat really was when this guy had ground control setup. it was nice. but i think he had the same 40 shot of nawz i'm running.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

Hey Rx7Carl ~

care to elaborate for the sake of the newbies to racing, like me?
why not the Holley? i know it's complex as ****, but if you get it soreted out, won't it be good for racing?

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

double post ... oops! sorry!

r0tary noob

Not to be mean, buit are you kidding or retarded APC is crap, their stuff will never touch my car now take your steaming bowl of uncle bens crap and get out of here if you are kidding so am I but if your serious, damn man you are in the wrong place

lovintha7

APC is for Pep Girls and cheap ricers

Rx7carl

Because its mounted 90* from its designed mounting so the primaries and secondaries line up with a rotary. Even with all the stuff RB does, its still gonna be a PITA to use on a road course or Autox. Center hung float bowls will help, but either a modded Nikki or a weber style is more suited for this application.

RacerX7fb

Bern is setting up a club date at Laguna Seca around the end of August, Mazdas only ... we can flex our ReXs out before Sevenstock

Holley carb floats dont take well to hard cornering .. plus re-jetting is alot simpler on a Weber.

jays83gsl

At the seca? Do we need to pay anything? I'm sure mine'll be up and running before August. Just not as fast as you guys, but, she'll be chugging along.

lovintha7

I wish I could drive out to Seca. And I'm sure you'll have to pay, because most don't have a racer's liscence. You'll have to at least pay for HPDE. (High Performance Driver Education) Costs around $200-300 range, but well worth it. You'll learn alot about your car.
If you get the chance to do it, do it.

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

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