Will a FORD 9" with a 4.10 or some gear ratio work... or do I have to get an exact MAZDA RX-7 GSL-SE ring and pinion....

From a scale from 1 to 10 of HOW HARD TO REMOVE THE RING AND PINION.... what would you say....

What's the process???

 

Youll have to use a Mazda RX-7 ring and pinion, 1st gen specific. I dont know about how hard it is to remove it but from what Im told installing it IS! Its an art to setting it properly. Not done perfectly it can either howl or break.. an exacting installation needed. You have an SE already with 4.076..whats wrong with yours?

 

Well, IT's Howling like mad.... and TRI-POINT figured it out for me that its the 3rd member and not my TRANNY, they can replace it for around $700........ I was searching around E-bay.... and found RING AND PINIONS for about $50 almost ending.... if not half way through the auction...... but the Ring and Pinions were GM or Ford 9" and said it'll fit that size.... and practically Mazda is sort of FORD...., but I also saw an auction for a 5.125 Ring and Pinion saying it'll fit our cars.... so is it possible to put a RING AND PINION of the same size and make it work.... I owe my Pops for $1112 just to get my SE to pass CA emission through TRI-POINT..... I need something that I can afford..... and save a bunch.....

I was also thinking... if my RING AND PINION can be rebuild or resurface for really cheap.... or the junkyard... if I can find another SE RING AND PINION....

thanks

Marques

 

I'd check the boneyard first. I think that you could use a regular GSL rear end if push came to shove. So long as it's an 84-85, it should bolt right in. The ratio will be a bit lower at 3.93, but you'll still have the LSD.

I could be wrong however. Rest assured one of the gurus will say for certain, but I'm pretty sure a GSL rear end would work in a pinch.

 

84/85 GSL lsd or Non LSD will fit in the GSLSE housing..


It has to be out of 84/85 ONLY they have bigger axels.

 

Miata Ring and pinions fit too, Look around for more information on what exact years.

 

I have three extra SE 3rd members, all in good shape.
I live in Santa Barbara,CA.
$100.00 + shipping or we meet somewhere.

Thanks,Dan

 

DO NOT try to change the R/P without the proper tools and experience! Get a 84/85GSL 3rd member and drop it in. You cant resurface them easily either.

 

Go for it! Your best bet!

 

SELimited.... are you by any chance a member with the SOCAL RX-7 club.... There's a meeting on 4/5/2003

http://www.socal7s.org/calendar/cale...tail.asp?ID=37

Yeah! if you can make it will talk....


What tools do I need..... It looks like I need to separate the driveshaft and the rear connection...(4 bolts 12mm) and to open up the casing of the 3rd member has about 9 bolts 12mm.... then what???? I checked it the other day... just to see what I should expect.... The only way to get experience is by having the confidence to do it....

 

I was reading on some stuff on other website.... 3rd member bearings....??? Could that be one reason.... ???? I thought my ring and pinion teeth were grind down..... but how about if the bearing is loose or something.... could that make it howl... back there???

 

A bearing could certainly make it howl. I don't know how you would determine that to be the cause without tearing it apart, though. And then it may not be obvious. I'm assuming you've checked your diff fluid level (or the shop it's residing at has) - it may have enough fluid, but not any limited slip additive. That'll cause more of a creak or groan when rounding a tight corner at low speed. If yours is howling going straight that probably isn't the cause (though low fluid could be if it hasn't been checked).

I haven't set a R&P in a 7 diff, but I have in an 8.8" Ford. It's not something you just go to the store and pick up the tools to do. You need someone with experience to show you how as tolerances are extremely important as is proper torque. I'm what I consider mechanically inclined (I'm not afraid to screw up anything once, more if it was fun ) and I would in no way feel comfortable doing my own R&P swap right now. If you don't know someone with experience in this area it would be to you and your wallet's benefit in the long run to just pay to have it done.

Sounds like you've got a line on a complete rear anyway, so this may all be moot...

 

I was at the junkyard today... practicing on removing the R&P..... Tougher than I thought.... luckily I found a GSL that someone removed the driveshaft already.... (that car was smog illegal... it had no cats.... it had a presilencer with a dynomax muffler all welded in one piece) anyways... I took out the tiny bolts... then I proceeded by trying to remove the half of it... (it won't come off) then I realize that their's this bolt a 23-24 mm bolt that I believe was holding it.... It was hard and my practice was a failure.... I couldn't remove it.... I guess I might just as well take it to my mechanic.... but I'll try again next... I'll remove the driveshaft first... then the big bolt... then tiny ones... hopefully that'll work....

if anyone has any suggestions..... I'm open minded...

The fluid in my rear is full... I made sure it was spilling out of 80w 90 gear oil....

 

The critical part is setting the pinion depth and drag torque and the R/P backlash. Look in the FSM (the haynes doesnt even cover this cause its not for the shade tree mechanic). Youll see how critical it is to set up. You need a 0-15 inlb torque wrench, gear marking compound, and a 7-8" micrometer, and you wont find that at Sears. Trust me, buy a built 3rd member.