If a Holley doesn't like cornering hard (know this from experience) and a webber doesnt either, then whats a good carb that will handle a bit of fast n sharp cornering? And what do they use in racing setups?
You'd think an $800 carb would not have these problems

 

IDA Weber is easily the carb most commonly used in racing applications and will work fine if set up correctly.

If you have the money you can always go fuel injection.

 

nikki with baffels

 

All Sterling Carbs have aluminum dowel baffels installed.

 

will a sterling carb feed a 12a bridgeport?

 

I never had any problems with My Racing Beat Holley. After using several carbs I think the RB Holley is the best street carb on the market. It is the easiest to maintian in tune. it has better low and mid range and good top end.

The webbers are great Dyno carbs. They make bigger numbers but it's all at top. They are wither on or off. If you want a race carb go with a webber.

Then again, I will never own another carbed rotary. Fuel injection is the best thing ever. More power accross the board, more reliable, better fuel economy, less complicated to work on and tune.

Good luck,
MIke

 

my dellorto 48 dhla with lake cities intake manifold works great on the race track lefties and righties. on the bridgeport!

 

No, but Carls Banana Carb will.

 

Thing I cant work out is why does it only cut out around sharp left hand corners, or long left hands when pushing hard. But around right hand corners no matter what its fine. :| Is it possible that there is a float or something in my carb that is only affected around lefts?

 

 

My friend had a Dell'orto on his RX2, and the thing would sputter on sharp or long left turns.

 

i heard Rx7carl beefs up stock nikkis...does he? i was about to buy a holley 600 for my stock 7 but i heard it is overkill. How would i go about getting him to do it? can i ship it to him or what?

 

Pretty common on a Nikki. What happens in a left hand turn? The car rolls to the right. The fuel sloshes to the right side of the bowl, away from the primary jets (starving the engine of fuel), and also pushes the float up, closing the inlet valve. With less roll compliance and proper float level and fuel pressure you can eliminate this problem. My car never cuts out in lefties.

 

Actually, Sterling and I both do. His sig has clickable links for anyone who wants to contact us.

 

I've always read where it's actually the recovery from the turn where the stumble occurs. Without a plexiglass carburetor to observe the action, this is how I understand it...
Left hand stumble in Nikki carbed rotaries is due to the orientation of the carb- it sits with the primaries to the left side of the car instead of in the front. As the car goes around a left turn, all the fuel in the bowls slams to the secondary side of the carb (due to centripital force), exposing all of the emulsion tube holes in the primary main circuit (but probably not uncovering the fuel jets). This leans the mixture out during the turn while the lateral force is applied to the fuel.
Normally the leaning shouldn't be too much of a problem (Unless you're improperly tuned) until you reach the apex and give it more gas to power out. Basically you open the throttle further and there's nothing there...
for a split second.
I believe what's also happening is during the curve sweep, when the lateral Gs are acting on the fuel, because the floats are no longer properly submerged while all the fuel is at the narrow ends of them, the floats drop allowing more fuel into the bowl. How much more, I don't know. But then when the carb levels out, the bowls (and main circuits) are flooded.

The bog is actually too much fuel in the carb upon exiting the turn, and no matter how much you try to "use-up" the fuel during cornering, you can't unfill the bowls as fast as they are being filled.

On modded Nikkis that I've seen, the baffels are always placed to regulated the incoming fuel- In effect, they block the gigantic hollow void in the fuel source/return path, but not entirely so that they actually "regulate" the fuel going to the floats.
We use the same design in the Sterling Carb and all of Carls port-application carbs will probably have it, too. We'll install them wherever it's allowed in race carbs, too (also Carls area of development).

We know the baffle mod works, but how exactly it works is speculation on my part until I can prove it.
If anyone has something to add (or subtract!) to my thoughts, the addition would be more than welcome as this truely is one of those "I can't see it, so I'm not sure" kind of things.
It would be a good discussion topic, and this thread has motivated me to post a poll about it later today to collect more info.

 

I think holley is the best street carb if you can live with shelling out the money for it. But then again I've never tried a carb by carl or sterling. I would love to do that sometime, maybe on the next 7.

 

I had the same issue. Raised the floats 1mm and it really helped out. 14mm from lid gasket to tip of float when needle just starts to seat. Your results may vary, just keep raising the floats until it's all happy all around.

My air/fuel meter said it helped out. I would like to put a baffle in the float bowl but haven't found a kit for the DHLA and don't know where to start.

I second what Carl said, less car lean and a good fuel delivery system helps.

 

As does proper jetting. Lots of people put Dellortos on ported motors, cars with low restriction exhaust, or put a 12a carb on a 13b. It needs to be rejetted in every case. Get her on the dyno, do it right, reach for the wallet!!!!!

 

My car has plenty of fuel pressure, so I guess its time to start rasing the floats. Is this easy to do?

 

What do you mean by plenty? Maybe you have TOO much. Whats you fuel pressure? And I suggest a float level as per the manual, which works out to dead center of the window. There even a notch in the casting to verify it behind the glass.

EDIT: Hey wait sorry, I noticed in your siggy that you have a Holley already? My reccomendation is for a Nikki, disregard please.