Hey ya'll It's the young "Rotor Boy Nate" with some questions on Rich lean tuning. My cousin currently has a 1985 Rx7 Base Model 5spd. He's rebuilt the 12A with a nasty little streetport, racing beat header, Presilencer, and Power Tech Muffler(not racing beat's power pulse, this is some austrialian company specializing in rally cars my uncle said)Hey also has racing beats Holley intake and carb setup with the air cleaner....Hes delted the rats Nest, Intall True Dual Pullies, And is running 20W-30 through a Bee Hive Oil cooler(I know bad idea) also we live the West Palm Beach, Florida Well, now to the point my uncle's been tunning Rotarys since he could Get his hands on one He began tunning my Cousins car and with the holley carb(modded by racing beat) he said is very sensitvie to tunning he either gets it a little too rich or a little too lean, so he kept it a little to rich just in case now he said if my cousin took the car to Petit Racing they could install a Wide Band O2 sensor in his header and tune the Air/Fuel more properly and that they could some how tune the OMP To deliever higher oil delivery at high RPMS(7,500-9,000RPM) too help eliminate or at least reduce Apex Seal Chatter! That would kick *** right? but, For the 470$ Petits Charging is this going to make much of a difference? The Wideband tunning and the OMP? Is it cost effective? also, is there any companies out there that makes a Kit to BEFFIN UP THAT LITTLE FREAKING THING MAZDA CALLED A REAR END? If not can we swap a Lsd center chunk from a junkyard FC3S? or maybe a first Gen With the Disc Brake Rear or LSD rear wich ever? and if we can is there a way to check to see if the Chunk is any good? and would this be something we could do in the Drive way with some jacks and jacks stands and Semi-Advanced Tools(Limited air tools)

--Dang I know I type alot but I'd love some help, you guys rule later,
"Rotor Boy Nate"

 

No matter if its holley, weber, dellorto etc etc, these carbs are very sensitive to heat/temp changes. So its a common issue.

For LSD, put the rear in jack stands. Turn one wheel (either forward/back). If the other wheel turns to the same direction, you got a LSD. And no to FC rear end. The FC's pinion shaft is longer than a FB so it takes more work/$$$ to get it going.

 

having an Air/Fuel ratio meter greatly speeds up the process of tuning your rotary, and also it can help you keep it tuned so that you can adjust to changing weather conditions. It is very hard to tune a rotary without an air/fuel ratio meter.

You definitely want the limited slip differential from a disc brake rear end in your car.