resto project on '82 has started...
07-22-05, 08:39 PM
#1
resto project on '82 has started...
well, i bought my first 7 on Wednesday, below is a link to the thread with pictures of the car when i first bought it, and i've decided to do a full restoration on it. One of my buddies came over last night to check out the car and i took him for a spin around my neighborhood (7/10 mile circle, no insurance and expired tags so i can't take it on the road), and he complained that his seat was rocking everytime i went around a corner. I knew that the seats were mounted very poorly, but i didn't know to what extent the horror was. the guy used Lag Bolts to hold the PLASTIC!!! seats in. the damn buckets are made of PLASTIC! i couldn't believe it. So my buddy nick was checking out the rear wing (i had just gotten done taking off the damn racing beat and holly stickers), and he was like "dude, this is held on with WOOD SCREWS!!! the dumb **** that i bought it from used wood screws to hold the wing on. so whe started to look for other janky **** in the car, lifted the carpet in the hatch and found some rust. i touched it, and the metal fell away. two spots in the hatch were like that. pictures are attached. so we pulled out 90% of the interior last night, and i finished up removing everything today after work. From the peeled paint on the bins, the interior was originally Burgandy, and the original color was a Dark Metallic Grey. My parents are bringing home an angle grinder from my grandpa's house so i can start working on the rust to see how much of the floor i'm going to have to replace. luckilly i don't think that there is any structural rust damage. i do have a question for you guys:
what do you think: the metal that goes from the floor of the hatch to the passenger area that holds the bins in (the bins are trashed, the guy that had it before the guy i bought it from cut holes in the bin covers and mounted 6X9's in them) is pretty rusted out, does that give the body any structural rigidity, or should i just remove that and use that area to mount stereo components (not putting a garguantian system in the car, just some amps for the speakers in the stock locations, may put a 10" in that area), or is it structural metal and i need to either: a. track down a piece that isn't rusted, or b. make a new one out of sheet metal.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/bought-my-first-7-a-445252/
what do you think: the metal that goes from the floor of the hatch to the passenger area that holds the bins in (the bins are trashed, the guy that had it before the guy i bought it from cut holes in the bin covers and mounted 6X9's in them) is pretty rusted out, does that give the body any structural rigidity, or should i just remove that and use that area to mount stereo components (not putting a garguantian system in the car, just some amps for the speakers in the stock locations, may put a 10" in that area), or is it structural metal and i need to either: a. track down a piece that isn't rusted, or b. make a new one out of sheet metal.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/bought-my-first-7-a-445252/
07-22-05, 11:34 PM
#3
Those 2 spots in the back are covers that give access to the forward nut on the bumper shocks, you got lucky there. First time I've seen them rust out by themselves without collateral rust. If you can't fine replacements, cut a piece of tin and set it in place with RTV.
The galvanized bin frames are structural for the bins only, not the car. Take the frames out and you can drop in the rear seats, if you can find them. You can rebuild the shape with 1/4" plwood or fiberglass for your stereo setup and design it however you wish.
The galvanized bin frames are structural for the bins only, not the car. Take the frames out and you can drop in the rear seats, if you can find them. You can rebuild the shape with 1/4" plwood or fiberglass for your stereo setup and design it however you wish.
07-23-05, 10:42 PM
#5
Originally Posted by trochoid
Those 2 spots in the back are covers that give access to the forward nut on the bumper shocks, you got lucky there. First time I've seen them rust out by themselves without collateral rust. If you can't fine replacements, cut a piece of tin and set it in place with RTV.
The galvanized bin frames are structural for the bins only, not the car. Take the frames out and you can drop in the rear seats, if you can find them. You can rebuild the shape with 1/4" plwood or fiberglass for your stereo setup and design it however you wish.
The galvanized bin frames are structural for the bins only, not the car. Take the frames out and you can drop in the rear seats, if you can find them. You can rebuild the shape with 1/4" plwood or fiberglass for your stereo setup and design it however you wish.
thanks alot for the info on the bin metal. I wanna get it out now that i know that it's not structural to see if there is any rust under it. if there isn't, then i have a pretty much rust free '82. started removing the sound deadening on my passenger seat pan tonight looking for rust, so far i'm free and clear. I'm using a 1500W heat gun and a metal putty knife, is this the best way to go about removing sound deadening, or would freezing it off with dry ice work alot better?
removed the tint on the windows tonight, it looks SO much better without the tint. I have to go to the hardware store tomorrow to get goof off/goo gone to remove the adhesive from the windows, then they're going back in.
started it up to move it into the garage to work on it, and decided to take it around the block without any seats in it, and it's just as comfortable without seats as it is with.
07-23-05, 10:46 PM
#7
Originally Posted by Mikeydred
My 2 rear bumper plates were rusted out too. You might want to check with member Hades12. He has parts!
thanks for the tip, i'll probably be contacting him with requests for a drivers front quarter and possibly a drivers door, depending on how bad the damage is to mine (it looks like there is a poor, thick bondo job on it)
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09-08-05, 10:31 PM
#8
it's been a while since I last updated this thread, so here are some new pics, and even they aren't too up-to-date. since the last update, i've fixed the holes on the rear deck, under both seats (to do the ones under the seats I used 28 gauge galvanized steel, aluminum rivots, 100% silicone caulk, and rubberized undercoating.) I installed a Holly Blue fuel pump with -6 lines. I'll take more pictures next time i'm at my Grandpa's house with her on the lift (when i'm doing this, i'll be swapping trannys).
09-09-05, 09:33 AM
#16
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thats nice, but why do it to that 7? i mean if your gonna do that why pay the money for that one in nice lookin condition? i mean you probably payed over 700 for it, now your gonna drop another 2k in it, why not buy one with half stripped paint and nothing great for 100 bucks. seemed kinda silly, but other than that good job on goin through it all. are you actually running "go baby go" juice in it? or was that for looks?
09-09-05, 09:51 AM
#17
Originally Posted by Rx7Kidd
thats nice, but why do it to that 7? i mean if your gonna do that why pay the money for that one in nice lookin condition? i mean you probably payed over 700 for it, now your gonna drop another 2k in it, why not buy one with half stripped paint and nothing great for 100 bucks. seemed kinda silly, but other than that good job on goin through it all. are you actually running "go baby go" juice in it? or was that for looks?
i assume you're talking about the steering wheel. that was put on by the previous owner, and the buttons are wired up for the horn. once I get everything else fixed, that is going out and i'm debating on whether i want to refurbish the stock steering wheel or get a nice looking momo wheel.
09-09-05, 04:16 PM
#19
Originally Posted by Rx7Kidd
thats nice, but why do it to that 7? i mean if your gonna do that why pay the money for that one in nice lookin condition? i mean you probably payed over 700 for it, now your gonna drop another 2k in it, why not buy one with half stripped paint and nothing great for 100 bucks. seemed kinda silly, but other than that good job on goin through it all. are you actually running "go baby go" juice in it? or was that for looks?
i bought this one because:
a: I wanted one in sound(ish) mechanical condition
b: this is my first project car, so i don't want one that I have to replace large amounts of metal
c: I just moved into Ann Arbor, and I don't have a perminant place to keep a pure project car. I'm working on her at night under the lights in the High School parking lot that is 1 block from my house, and I have to drive it to my Grandpa's house to do major work (like the upcoming tranny swap)
oh, and I payed $1,000 for it
10-19-05, 05:42 PM
#20
update
so since the last time I posted pictures alot has happened with my FB. no doubt you saw the thread about the tow company ******* with my car. I've since removed the vast majority of the sound deadening, and i'm working on removing rust in my drivers seatwell right now, taking a break while the car airs out and i get my hearing back. Here are some pics that I need to show to update the progress.
EDIT: Is there something wrong with the server? I can't upload my files, it keeps on saying "Error: File Partially Uploaded"
EDIT: Is there something wrong with the server? I can't upload my files, it keeps on saying "Error: File Partially Uploaded"
10-20-05, 05:19 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by whitey85mtu
I'm working on her at night under the lights in the High School parking lot that is 1 block from my house
Last edited by MattG; 10-20-05 at 05:22 PM.